Replacing Brake Lines

[bigray]

Hi All,

Has anyone changed the brake lines on their Clipper? When I bought my Clipper it had a leaking battery that cause some pretty bad corrosion to the master cylinder and metal lines coming from it. Also, while under my Clipper I observed some rust on the brake lines as well.

For peace of mine, I've considered changing the master cylinder and all the brake lines. Has anyone done this? If so how much should it run me? I've gotten responses from brake and repair shops that range from bring it in to let me look at it to $450. A while back, I bought the tools to do the bending of the tubs but think when it comes to the brakes I'd better leave it to the professional.

Especially since I'm considering driving in mountain sometimes soon.

Let me know!

[LARRY RAY]

BIG RAY--LOOK AT THE LINES CLOSELY- TAKE IT IN HAND AND SEE IF IT IS STILL SOLID OR IS REALLY FLEXIBLE. IF STILL SOLID, EMORY CLOTH IT TO REMOVE EXESS RUST AND ROAD FILM AND PAINT WITH GOOD RUSTOLIEM PANT. IF IN DOUBT THOUGH REPLACE. IT DOESN'T HAVE TO LOOK PERFECT IF IT WORKS. RIGHT?  A MAN THAT WILL BEND DOWN LOOKING UNDER HOME FOR IMPERFECTIONS NEED SOMETHING BETTER TO DO. GIVE HIM AND OLD FISHING POLE YOU DON'T LIKE AND A CAN OF WORMS.

[Andy Illes]

Ray -

I'm sortta with Larry on this one.  Older metal lines will almost always have some rust on 'em... wouldn't really worry about those.  The main thing to check with those is wherever they're touching other metal... make sure they haven't worn.  More important are the flex-lines to the calipers.  I didn't change mine, they felt ok, but they're standard and about $6 ea at most any auto parts place.  If you're hell-bent on doing somethig, you might also consider new or rebuilt master and wheel cylinders.  If those are original, it's worth it.  When I first got mine, the brake pedal suddenly went nearly to the floor on me.... leaky, old master.

If you do wanna change the steel lines, the only "critical" part of the deal is getting a good flare on the line ends so you can get tight connections (remember to slip the nipples on first).  On the other hand, flare connections are pretty forgiving and if you're anywhere near a decent flare, they'll "seat" when you tighten 'em up.  Be sure you do NOT use any goop or tape on flare connectors... just snug 'em up.

Andy

[Conrad]

I wouldn't replace the metal lines unless I saw signs of fluid leaking.  Rubber Front brake lines are easy.  

One improvement I made to my brake system was to buy the one-man brake bleed nipples.  They have a check valve in them that allows one to pump fluid through but not suck air back in.  Works real nice.  Seat them down then back off 1/4 turn or so.  Got the tip from a Corvette owner.  

They come in metric as well as standard diameters and different pitches (TPI Threads per inch).  The threads are preloaded with some sort of thread locking/lubing compound.  I think our units use a 3/8" - 32.  Just take in your old one to compare.

[bigray]

Thanks for all the feed back gents. I drove my Clipper home for Thanksgiving and my brother, uncle, and brother-in-law all told me exactly what you are saying. Unless they are leaking leave them alone.

The surface rust that I see was causing me concern but upon closer examination, I think I'm fine.


Thanks again!

[mainsail]

Hello,
I'm just newly registered. I like your site here.   Met one of your American Clipper folks here in Arkansas recently at a car event.  I drive a Dodge Xplorer (but liked the Clipper - had not seen one to know it before)

Anyway - have been around these Dodges a long time.  Recently replaced ALL brake lines - steel and flex.  Had ONE difficulty that I'd like to pass along.  These aftermarket Brake Flex Brake lines don't always have the CORRECT THICKNESS copper washers.   Too thin,  and the Square metal end that goes to the Caliper will bottom out on a rebuilt Caliper housing, before tightining on the Copper enough.  (Many of them are only .030 or less.  The OEM ones are .060 or so)   Just thought I'd pass it on.

Again, You folks have a nice site.  After I wear out this Xplorer (1976), I might have to move up to your size
mainsail

[bigray]

Thanks for the feedback, Mainsail.

You should keep your eye on the Classified section. I guarantee you won't be disappointed with a Clipper (provided the previous owener(s) took decent care of it. As my signature suggest, you have to be handy or don't mind spending money for repairs.


Most of the owners from what I can tell are DIY'ers (Do-It Your-Selfers). Good luck!

I like your Login Name-Mainsail. Reading it reminds me of when I started researching the "American Clipper" on the web. I saw a lot of references to the Boat - American Clipper, before finally stumbling upon this site.

[terry and karen conkle]

wear     a     helmet !

[Rodney]

While I was working in the axel for my Clipper yesterday I discovered an almost smashed shut brake line which runs from the distribution Tee on the rear axel housing to the Right brake!! The line in this case was ran between the U bolts & the housing, there is enough room for the line to fit there but in this case was pinched by the U bolt when they were tightened up.
Your thread reminded me of this an thought I would pass it along.
BFW If I had ANY question reguarding any brake parts I would address the potental problem. It is the BRAKES and sometimes you only get one chance in a situation. Replacing brake lines are simple to do and the complete kits can be bought ready made and in stainless to. I have install both types, the steel is easier to handle. that would be a good time to change the master cyl. and then you will be starting with fresh fluid in the system. I have replaced the power booster an master cyl in my home and the rear brakes are next. I am still not happy with how the Clipper stops.
I am hoping the new rear shoes will take care of it.
Safe and happy Clipping everyone!!