Timing ?

[aliendude]

I have a question.     I'm troubleshooting a shaking problem on
my 360.      It shakes really badly when I start it.    After a minute
it stops shaking and seems to run fine.    It sounds like a diesel
when it first starts.     Its has good oil pressure.   It's a brand new
motor.  

Is it possible I put the distributor dirve gear in wrong or the distributor is 180 deg
out?    

When I was installing the timing,  the book said the two dots on the timing
gears were next to each other..... but I cranked it through, and after the
intake valve closed, and the piston came up to the top, the dot on the cam
gear was up at the top.   Then  I put in the intermediate dist drive gear, and dist.  

It fired up after a bit after a bit, and ran smoothly.

It has plenty of power when it runs...

But it seems like this Clatter when I start it is getting worse.  
IT only does it the first cold start.    After it is warmed up, it won't do it
if I shut it off and restart it.  

I'm stumped.     Could the timing be 180 off?    Would it run smoothly?

Or would you suspect something else?    Could old fuel be
causing it?   Maybe moisture in the fuel?

[aliendude]

Or maybe fuel starvation?

[Andy Illes]

A-Dude............. keep in mind that the cam turns at half crankshaft speed so the marks line up every other crank rotation - i.e., the pistons make 2 visits to the top for every one cam rotation.   At (correct) TDC, both valves should be closed in the #1 cylinder, on the compression stroke.   On the "wrong" TDC, the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve will just be starting to close as the intake starts opening.  Also keep in mind that when the marks are correctly opposed, that's absolute TDC... the initial timing setting is advanced from that (6* by the book, I set mine at 10).

You may want to check your engine and tranny mounts, the engine shouldn't be clattering around and shaking the fillings out of your teeth.  Bad mounts will allow a lot of movement and have a "mooshie" feel.... good ones won't.

[Andy Illes]

A-Dude..... I just noticed your other post about EGR and had a(nother) thought.  Any vacuum leak will effect a cold engine far more than a warm one.  Are you having to "blip" the throttle to keep it running on a cold start?  If so, suspect a bad choke setting or bad choke, and/or a vacuum leak.... it doesn't take much.   If you haven't done it yet, get a bunch of vacuum hose and replace every single hose.  A tip is to make a trip to Home Depot for a can of "liquid electrical tape" and after you put the new hoses on, paint each connection with that goop.   The connections will be air-tight, but still be easy to take apart later, if necessary.

[aliendude]

I'm talking at www.allpar.com/forums as well.  
It's been suggested I could have too much choke.  
But the choke flutters....

I'm suspecting my EGR more and more....  maybe it
has a blown out seat/disk.    

If I could do it I'd use my old oil pump lower plate and
make a block off plate.    I'm tired of Messing with it.

But it runs better with EGR when it is warming up.  After
this initial clack and shake problem..

When I wired up a switch to energize the EGR delay soleniod
It seemed to help a little bit.   But now maybe the seat is
kind of blown out.  

I'm getting really tired of all the problems.....

All I want to do is go camping - sometime.

[aliendude]

ALL the vacuum hoses are new.  
Maybe the one to the EGR got a hole rubbed in it.....the nipple points at the throttle linkage....and I couldn't see if I could turn the
diaphram case w/o breaking it.

[aliendude]

I backed the timing up and it was not nearly as bad..... then I set with a gun to 0TDC like a Cal Smog AIR motor.  

Seems to have fixed it.......

Only have to fix the brackets to my P/S pump and then I'm taking it for a
Smog Check.   Maybe 4 more hours of work.