440 Dodge Motor Rebuilding

[Kelly & Ilene Houser]

Can anyone let me know what is advisable in rebuilding the 440 in my Clipper.
What new headers, carburator, intake manifold etc; do you feel I should would be looking at or using????
kihouser@sbcglobal.net
Thanks;
    Kelly Houser
    ACOC#3430

[Tyler Hoodenpyle]

Hi Kelly and Ilene, I would definitly have the reciprocating assembly balanced, including the pistons/pins, connecting rods(with new bolts) crankshaft and harmonic balancer and torque converter. First the shop will static balance the parts to match the weight of the lightest piston  and rod, then they should do a dynamic balancing or spin balancing.  Check to see if the rubber ring separating the hub of the balancer.  If cracked or the outer ring has slipped at all-replace it.  Consider having the rods shot peened to increase surface hardness and make them reistant to cracking. If the trans is not going to be serviced at least replace the seal at the input shaft while it is accessible.  Balancing is an easy way to increase power and helps to smooth out the engine.  Some consider this to be splitting hairs but keep this in mind, at 3000 rpm the piston moves from top dead center to bottom dead center back to TDC 50 times in a second.  Any way to make this assembly spin easier is money well spent in my opinion.  True, straight cylinder bores are extremely important. Chances are the cylinders will have to be bored to make them truly round again and with no taper.  Ask to have the cylinders finished honed with torque plates for a little extra money.  This will simulate the torque of the head bolts which will distort the wall slightly.  Remember, we are trying not to loose any of the combustion gases past the rings.  Spend to money for good head gaskets to.  Ask around what the highest compression ratio you can get away with without pre-ignition. A pinging engine with higher compression will make less power than one with no ping and lower compression, but try to get away with as much as you can.  This is the easiest way to make power.  
 As for a camshaft, call a cam help line.  Do a search on google, some companies such as Crane, Compitition Cams, Engle, Mopar Performance etc.  Tell them compression ratio, vehicle weight (full), gear ratio, engine size, cruise rpm.  Wait to hear from other ACOC members on this also.
  Heads are not an area to scimp on.  Make sure the surfaces are good and flat, have a three angle valve grind done.  Have the valve guides replaced with bronze guides.  Ask for Viton valve seals.  The stock valve train is just fine as designed just as long as pushrods aren't bent, rocker arms aren't worn out and polish the rocker arm shafts.  Don't forget a double roller timing chain, these chains almost eliminate the chance of jumped timing and are less likely to strech. Don't forget to check the oil pump drive shaft and gear for wear.  
 Use a high-volume oil pump.  This will pump extra oil and also increase oil pressure as well.  This will also allow the bearing to support more load and offer more cooling as well.  A windage tray is a cheap way to keep the oil in the pan and out of the way of the  churning crankshaft.  A cheap way to free up some more power.  Just make sure the oil return slots are really opened up to allow the oil to drain back fast enough.  It's hard to keep to oil controlled on  a big block Chrysler because the lower skirt of the block actually forms part of the oil pan.
 Consider an aluminum dual plane intake manifold like one from Edelbrock called the Performer.  This is aluminum and disipates heat easier not to mention the reduction in weight.  As far as carburetors go wait for other Clipper owners advice.  The stock Thermoquad really is a fantastic carb if tuned right.  There really is not a need to replace it unless it is totally shot.
 Replace the factory ignition module and distributor with a kit from Mopar Performance.  The dist. is new not rebuilt.  Much more accurate and true timing.  The advance curve is also improved for more efficiency.  The ecu is an "orange box". Use a spark plug gap of .040" with Mopar Performance igntion and .060" with MSD. An interesting note:  at 3000 rpm the ignition must be able to produce a spark 200 times per second.  Use a hot coil like one from MSD.  Don't scimp on ignition or spark plug wires. Use at least 8mm wires.  Shop for ones that have the least electrical resistance yet can withstand the intense heat inside the dog house.  The ultimate ignition system would be from Jacobs.  They have a complete package for RVs and towing.
 Throw away the factory exhaust manifolds.  Any big block Chryler needs a set of exhaust headers.  Equal length tube headers will scavenge the exhaust pusles from the next cylinder in line to  fire.  Use 1 3/4" primary tubes.  Use a true dual exhaust system with a cross over tube between both tail pipes between the headers and the mufflers.  Use free flowing mufflers like those from Flowmaster or Hooker.  Ask the manufacture for a recommendation on the number of chambers and length for sound control.
 A free flowing air cleaner like on from K & N will help power as well.  Try to design an intake tube that will draw the air from the radiaton core support right behind the grill.
 The most important thing is a good cooling system.  Your fresh engine will likely run hotter than before, the clearances are tighter and therfore more friction is the result.  Have the radiator rodded out at least.  Consider a high flow water pump from Moroso.  Remember coolant/antifreeze does not help cool an engine, only raises the boiling point and prevents corrosion so only use as much as needed to leave more room for water.  Think about a "pusher" fan in front of the radiatior to help out as well, wire it with a thermostatic switch.  Don't ever leave out the fan shroud this is extremly important to pull air throught the entire radiator.
 Did I go on too long?

ACOC # 3441

[Conrad]

Did you go too long?  

[Guinnessecco]

A balanced engine has a smoother feel to it.  You may also want to have the engine blue printed which means they are extra careful with the tolerances when they bore the cylinders.  They match each piston to an individual bore.  Be careful about the intake manifold because you live in California and you have to make sure it is smog approved.  There are a number of things the automotive machinist has to do that are too numerous to list that will make for a long lived engine rebuild.  Check with the local car clubs about who the good machinists in the area are.  Your local librarian should know.  In general, I tend to go with a stock configuration on a rebuild unless the engine will be used for something unusual, and you need extra power.  Extra power cost money, for both gasoline and the cost of the modifications.  There is something called an RV grind on a camshaft and you might look into that, but be careful because a camshaft with a higher lift may result in extra wear on the valve train parts, and the need to select pistons with clearance for the extra valve movement.  If you are going to have the engine out, then be sure to check the fan clutch for leakage and make sure the little shaft in the middle turns, otherwise replace it.  Also, you may want to pull the heater motor and replace, or at least lubricate it.  If you want better fuel economy, consider an automatic transmission with a lockup torque converter, but check on whether you would also have to replace the rear end ratio to match the lockup converter.  I would expect a 40% improvement in fuel costs with a lockup converter.  Do you math and see how long it would take to pay for another transmission with the use you are considering.  If the transmission was rebuilt in the last five years, you may want to just go with what you have, otherwise do consider rebuilding it also.  Get the best re-core you can on the radiator.  Spend $350 on the radiator because Chrysler products have a reputation of not having a very good cooling systems.

[Guinnessecco]

Checked with my brother who owns a transmission shop about a lockup torque converter. He says the 618 will replace the 727. These transmissions are to be found on 1988 to 1993 Dodge trucks. You will need to fit a throttle position sensor and use the dodge diesel transmission computer control, unless you decide to go with fuel injection, then you can use the computer for fuel injection to run the 618.  If you want more power and economey, do consider fuel injection.  Just find yourself a Dodge truck from 1988 to 1993 and start switching the engine and transmission.

[Guinnessecco]

My brother did a transmission job for a fellow with a 1984 Chev truck, replace an automatic without a lockup torque converter with a 4L80E which does.  The truck was used to pull a six horse trailer with live in quarters.  Fuel consumption improved from 8 mpg to 12 mpg.  He used a Compushift transmission control for the 4L80E.  Unfortunately Compushift does not make a unit for Dodge trucks using the 618 transmission.  If a transmission is to be used for extreme duty, systhetic oil with large (half inch) piping and an oil cooler with half inch tubes are needed.  The Dodge diesel uses this setup, and it can be retrofitted to gasoline engined Dodge vehicles, or the above mentioned Chevrolet truck.  Synthetic lubricant in the differential is also a very good idea.

[Kelly & Ilene Houser]

Hello Everyone:
Thanks for answering my questions concerning rebuilding my 440 and the transmission in our 1977 Clipper!!!

If you have any other tips please let me know!!!
I've budgeted $3000.00 into the engine and another $1,000.00 into the trans.
Am I realistic or do you feel it will be more???  Hope Not!!  But we will see I guess.
I just want to make sure that the Clipper Runs Well and We are not stuck somewhere because of the engine and trans.
Again Thanks;  Kelly

[Guinnessecco]

By the way, the 440 is usually long lived.  What goes is the timing chain, but a replacement of that should keep the rig going for a long time.  Thes engines are not used stop and go, so they should last three times longer than a regular sedan of the same vintage.

To remove engine:
Disconnect batter and remove oil dipstick

drain oil and remove oil pan, it may be necessary to turn crankshaft to get pan by front of crank shaft.

disconnect flex plate from torque converter on automatic transmission

Disconnect exhaust piles from exhaust manifolds.

Remove starter

Remove lower transmission bell housing bolts

Disconnect throttle linkage from transmission

remove engine mount lower bolts (those two plates with rubber in between)

Lower vehicle and drain radiator

remove air cleaner

Discharge air conditioner (have a shop do this for you, save the ozone layer)
SEAL ALL OPENINGS TO AIR CONDITIONING, and also disconnect all air conditioning lines

Remove front bumper, grille and support brace.

Disconnect radiator hoses, air conditioning condenser and support.

Remove air conditioning compressor AND SEAL ALL openings.

Remove power steering pump (and air pump if equiped) with hoses

Disconnect throttle linkage, heater and vacuum hoses, all electrical to engine accessories.
Remove alternator, fan blade and fluid coupler

remove spark plug wires and distributor cap

Remove intake manifold, use screw that held manifold and attach a strong short chain between centers of cylinder heads

Use a shop crane (cherry picker)and raise engine a little bit.

Put a floor jack under transmission (if you are doing work on the transmission, it should have been remove already)

remove upper bell housing bolts

Remove engine through front of vehicle.  May have to raise vehicle and transmission a little to get arm of cherry picker level and have room to work.

[John Eversoll]

Excuse me for adding my bit of info on the removing of the 440  from the rig...

I tried to remove the motor from the front.... No way....  It had to come out the passenger side door.

My bit of two cents,,,, John

[pop427]

I've pulled 8 or 10 out over the years myself. I modified one of my cherry pickers ( lowered the fulcrum point ) and it helped a great deal. They come out the pass side door with much less hassle than the front.
You should be able to get a trans guy to bench that TF727 for about $600.

Doug in big ditch where is is 64* today

[John Eversoll]

Hey Pop---  for sure on that trans, I bought the rebuilding kit from my auto parts store for 150.

Took it to a trans shop and they did the worlk for 300.  Figure I am $$$$$ well ahead...
Plus I took the motor to a guy in Anaheim and he built the motor for a total   $1,400. 
Money well worth it .. so for $1,700 I have a new motor  and trans......all new rods and pistons
new crank and cam shaft.  He is the same guy that built the motor for my Chevelle ss
Which is a screemer....  for the average guy out there that doesn't want to spend 3,000
on a rebuild then they just have to get their hands dirty and do some of the work themself!!!!