1977 Clipper overheating engine - after turning off engine??

[pdxpfeifer]

Hi Everyone - We bought a 1977 rear kitchen clipper - two years ago this September. Poor girl has spent more time in repair shop than bing used/camping. We were silly enough to by her for $1000 - well $12k later  

We had a new engine put in a year ago in May and the engine kept over heating the few times we took her out. We can't seem to drive 45 - 55 miles an hour without her overheating and leaving us stranded on the road - even with a new rebuilt engine!

So the replaced/rebuilt engine kept overheating and basically blew up. I do know a good amount about old cars from that era - my dad taught me how to work on cars. The problem is new radiator, new hoses, new carburetor, new shocks, new structs, new tires, new engine. Pretty much everything replace.

We had another engine put in and just got it back today - It was driving freeway traffic at about 50-55mph at 190 degrees, we hit traffic and a small incline and started and stopped and idled - it went up to 220 degrees - I ran the heater to try and blow some off the engine. I managed to get home 50 minutes later and as soon as I stopped the RV you could hear the radiator boiling and hissing and bubbling. I opened the hood and popped the doghouse. The engine turned off was over 230 degrees.

I need any advice on how to solve this! I can't run at 230-240 degrees when I stop and turn off the RV for a road, I will never be able to leave the gas station if I stop!

I haven't even joined the Clipper Club, because I don't know if I have a Clipper for all the money invested

I can't keep having engines blow up and being left stranded on the roadside with two little boys when I travel without my husband

Suggestions would be most helpful!!!

thanks
Robyn

[Toedtoes]

Hi and welcome.

Overheating in these old RVs is a common problem - due to the weight of the RV, the tight fit in the engine compartment, etc.  It will help us answer if you can tell us what engine you have, that will help.  360?  440?  Or something else.  Also, what type of terrain and temperatures you're driving in? 

There are some minor mods you can do to help relieve the temps while on the road.  There may be something else going on, if you've actually replaced everything out.

[Clipper Joe]

Hello Robyn,
I Have Read Your Post. It Is A Real Pain With Any RV Overheats.
You Stated You Had The Engine Rebuilt.

With Out Seeing You Rig I Will Give You Some Things That May Help You Out.
Like Toedtoes Said, I Guess You Have A Big 440 Dodge Motor.
I Too Have A 1977 Clipper, Since 2003 Mine Has 440
Dodge V-8.

1.) Make Sure Timing Is Set @ Refer To Emmision Control Label On Inside Hood.
2.) Make Sure Spark Plugs 8Ea. Auto lite # 85 Set Gap .035"
3.) Make Sure Spark Plug Wires Are In Good Condition, Due To Excess Heat In Doghouse, Use Silicone Type High Temp.
4.) Make Sure Radiator Is Clean & You Have Min. 3 Cores, 4 Core Is Best & Make-Sure You Have Recovery Anti-Freeze Tank & Water Pump Is Flowing Properly.
5.) Make Sure You Use A Mr. Gasket 160 Deg. Thermostat #4367 Available At ACOC, You Must Be A Member To Buy This About $15.00 plus Shipping. Note: **** This Is A Must !!

Really I Would Check The Thermostat First, Most Rebuliders Will Put 185-190 Degree, This Will Cause Heating Problems.

Please Join American Clipper Owners Club, There Is A Vast Amount Of Info On Our Web Site.

Hope This Helps & Good Luck & Please Repost After Your Reslove You Problem It May Help Another Clipper Owner Who May Have This Same Problem.

Joe

[Clipper Joe]

Hi Robyn,

I Hope I Did Not Overwhelm You With The List.
I Have Did A Few Other Mods On Our Clipper, I Have Added A Hood Scoop & A Hayden Spray Unit,
That Has A Tank & You Have 2 Sprayers That Shoot A Blast Of Mist Water On Radiator When In Stop & Go Traffic.

There Is One Other Thing You May Want To Look At.
Make Sure That The A/C Condenser Or Trans-Cooler Is Not Covering To Much Of Front Of The Air Flow,
Some Clipper Owners Have Installed A Earlier 1973 Grille From Early Dodge Vans, They Let More Air Into Radiator.

Joe

[pdxpfeifer]

Hi Joe and toedtoes - thank you. The list and information was not overwhelming at all! It was very helpful.

It's a 1977 - rear kitchen Dodge 440 V8 engine. We started with carburator being rebuilt, then had to do the entire engine. It was a Jasper Engine the shop put in, they replaced the radiator, belts, hoses, everything they said they could get their hands on and you could tell by looking at everything.

They put a standard 180 thermostat into it, on the second trip stuck on the roadside with my boys a young man gave us a ride to the Auto parts store and we got a 160 thermostat to try that to see if it would help, the 180 that was in there was showing slight signs of it sticking if I remember it right. The 160 kept it cooler - around 190 degrees for our reminder 45 minute trip and the second I shut down the engine at the welcome gate it blasted up past 230-240 range and I had to wait for it to cool.

So in about 4-5 trips - less than a 1 hour and 45 minute drive the engine had over heated each time "detonation" as the warrenty guys said- blowing two of the cylinders.

The engine was rebuilt again, and installed and picked up yesterday. The original gauges are not working, and a heat gage has been installed by your knee - I watch it very carefully. We were driving 45 minutes flat ground from Hillsboro, Or to Portland, OR. We hit stop and go traffic about 15 minutes outside of Portland. The temps crept to 210, and there is a small hill that crests up over maybe a half mile? That is what was causing temp rise, but I think it was mostly the stop and go traffic at about 30-40 MPH.

There was a brief cooling back down to about 200 then I hit stop and go city traffic at about 20-25 Mph. The RV stayed under 220, but as soon as I parked in front of my house the engine turned off it went from 190-200 to 230, I immediately popped the lid and pulled the dog house to try and give the engine some air.

All I can figure is the shop that put this in obviously didn't drive it for 45 minutes or more. So the new rebuilt Jasper engine is showing the same problems as the last one.

Our general driving terrain is close to sea level, Portland is an hour from the ocean. We usually drive to a camp ground about an hour and 45 minutes away, we stop for gas after we get through the Tillamook forest - so there is about 40 minutes of driving that we are going about 40-45 mph through the forest and over the mountains, that are maybe about 1000 feet at highest elevation, but on either side of that it is flat. So the terrain is not Colorado or something super steep and hilly. We are note really planning going more than 3 hours from home 4-5 to Bend, OR if we were lucky! But the RV hasn't been reliable enough to manage that.

The other problem we were having - on the first rebuild, is that if the RV didn't overheat - when we got to our campsite and I was trying to back up and park and level after a few tries, on relatively flat ground, the RV would stall and the engine would die - then it would not start again. I would have to go get another family at the campsite to come Jump the RV to get her to start again, even though the engine temps were fine. We got a new battery when we bought her.

[pdxpfeifer]

as a correction, the thermostat was 190 degrees and I put in a 160 degrees, but that didn't help on the other engine, I am not sure if they changed it again, I will have to ask.

[pdxpfeifer]

How can I tell how many cores are in my radiator? I know they replaced it, but it does look like a tiny one?

[Clipper Joe]

How can I tell how many cores are in my radiator? I know they replaced it, but it does look like a tiny one?

You Have To Remove Radiator Cap, Note: Make Sure You Do This When Engine Is Cold!

Then You Can See How Many Rolls Are In Side, They Are About 1/2" Wide. If It Is A 2 Core That Will Not Be Enough Cooling For A 440 Engine.

One Other Thing, You Have A Clutch Fan On Your Fan Blade, The Way You Check These Units, You Put 2" Tape On 1 Blade Of Fan & Start Engine, If Tape Breaks Should Be Okay.
Hayden Make 2 Types Thermo & Non Thermo, I Use Thermo On Mine, So The Hotter It Is It a Ease Up & Helps On MPG.
They Also Sell A Heavy Duty Flex Fan Blade For More Cooling.
And Last But Not Least, There Are After Market Electric Fans You Can Mount In Front Of Radiator & Add A Switch So When It Gets Super Hot You Can Toggle The Switch & Cool It Right Down.
You May Want To Check Summit Racing Parts.

I Would Make Sure You Have A 160 Degree Thermostat In It, Runs The Best.
Hope This a Helps.
Joe

[pdxpfeifer]

Hey guys - It was the Fan clutch! of all the stuff they replaced with the new engine - radiator, hoses, belts, etc. They did not replace or test the fan clutch. the second shop found it! The Clipper is now running at 170-190 degrees! We made it two hours for camping and were not stranded on the roadside -yea!

Thanks for all the help, ideas, and specifications.

[Clipper Joe]

Hello,
Thats Great To Hear You Fixed Your Heating Problem.
Its Great You Were Able To Share With The Rest Of The ACOC Club.

I Know After Reading Alot Of The Heat Related Problems, It Seems To Come Down To Thermastat, Should Be 160 Degree & Radiator, Fan Belts Loose & Fan Clutch, Some Case May Be Bad Water Pump.

So Feel Free To Ask Any Questions You May Have.
Also Remember Join The American Clipper Owners Club If Not Already A Member, You will Find Info On Main Page. Then You Will Be Able To Gain Accesses To All Tech Threads.

Thanks Again,
Joe

 

[pdxpfeifer]

Thanks joe.
I had just inquired to confirm correct mailing address for membership. And if there were any overhead windows with hinges in the stock pile? Our hinge broke and we were taping the window down, but we lost it driving.

[Clipper Joe]

Hi,
Is It The 14"x14"  Or The One Over Bunk It Is The Larger Escape Hatch.


The Brand They Use Maybe Elixir Prior To 1994 Model # 40156 / 40162 Should Work For Smaller 14"x14". These Are Available Online E-Bay & RV Adventure & Camping World. The ACOC May Also Have Them.
Make Sure To Check The Lap Seam Around Frame For Cracking, To Keep Water Out.
I Use Dicor Self Leveling White Caulking, Works Great. Also Check, Antenna & Ladder Mounds While Up On Roof. Note: Use Caution While On Roof.

Joe

[Toedtoes]

I believe she means the side window in the cabover - not a vent/escape hatch.  I am checking with the supply officer to see if these windows are available.  As soon as I get an answer I'll post it here.

So glad to hear your clipper's issue is finally resolved!!  I had a similar issue with my ignition - replaced everything we could think of and still had the problem.  Finally bypassed the entire Mopar ignition system and no more problems (until the radiator and engine blew...).