Power center

[retrorob]

 I just got done replacing the original power center with a new Progressive Dynamics PD4000 with 45 amp. Both 120volt/12volt sides seem to work, but I was wondering, I never checked the original power center to see if the 120 system works through an inverter. In other words, can you guys who are running with the original power center use the 120 volt plug-ins when drawing power off the coach batterys?

Rob

[Horst]

Wall sockets (120) will not work unless powered from shore or a generator.
But I'm not sure this is what you are asking.......
Are you asking if the original powercenter is set-up to accept wiring from an inverter so that you could run 120 off the inverter and your house batteries??
I wouldn't  think so - but I'm an electrical dunce!

[mccammonds]

That Progressive Dynamics PD4000 is what is called an RV converter (load center)  Usually with 120v and 12v fuses.   It will charge your batteries when plugged into shore or generator power.  It is usually just like a trickle charger (maybe 5 amps).  Not the best to charge a coach battery real fast.

To use only your batteries to make 120V  AC you will need an inverter.  It's input is from the coach batteries.  The output is 120V AC. Be aware of the wattage of the output of your inverter.

[JerryT]

Hi Rob
I added an inverter [12v to 120v] and transfer switch to my coach so that when I turn on my inverter it feeds the power [120v] to the power center circuit breakers and thus the wall outlets. I did have to add a relay so that the converter [120v to 12v] did not come on when the inverter was turned on. Also I do not turn on the A/C unit [too large] when running on inverter power. It is nice to have 120v with out running the generator.
JerryT

[mccammonds]

You done it right.  And like you said the AC was too large for the inverter.  We should be aware that even if the out put of the inverter does have the wattage to carry the load it is foolish to try and tax the inverter input (house batteries) to run even thing like a regrig. or other heating devices.  Anything over 400 watts over any extended period of time will tax the system too much.

[drwfc7]

Hi JerryT
What did you use for a transfer switch? The project sounds interesting  and beneficial but was wondering what was involved in doing so and the availability of parts and cost of doing so compared to using a plug in inverter.How big of an inverter are you using?Thanks.   Bob

[JerryT]

Hi Bob
I used a 2500 watt inverter, I don't need one that large but I wanted the extra insurance of over capacity. I bought my transfer switch from Progressive Dynamics, same brand as the power panel and converter. They are in Marshall Michigan just down the road from me. They have a "walk in the back door" service dept.that sells new and refurbished items at a savings. I was there last week to get a fuse for my converter that had failed due to vibration, nice people too! Here is a link for their transfer switch.
     
http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/trans_relays/pd5110610.html

The transfer switch has one set of contacts that are normally closed so that the power from your plug in cord goes direct to your breaker panel just like it does now. When the transfer switch detects power from a different source it opens those normally closed contacts and closes the other set that have the input from your inverter (or generator) thus supplying power to the breaker panel. It is a two in and one out switch that works automatically. I have wired two of these into my coach, one for the generator and one for the inverter so that if I plug in, start the generator or turn on the inverter I have power to the wall outlets. I do run the fridge from the inverter when driving instead of using propane. I see that retail on these is about $80 now, mine were less.
Ask any questions you want, it is an easy hook up.

JerryT  

[retrorob]

The info you all provide on this site is awesome!
I'm looking into the inverter.
Thanks all!

[John Eversoll]

  All this info"  When I was younger I used to do all this stuff and not bat an eye

  Now as I have gotton older and the kids piss me off I am so scared to even try this

  stuff..  Guess I will just have to have someone do it for me and pay them for the work..

  It is Hell to get Old!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    John

[JerryT]

Hi Rob
I like my inverter. When we travel I turn on the inverter, just like at home the power is always on. I even leave it on at night when we dry camp to power my iridescent night lights and charge things. When it is cool out side we use it to power our dual control electric blanket (older non electronic model) instead of running the furnace all night. FYI, the newer electric blankets I have tried can not be powered with a square wave (cheaper) inverter, it burns up the control box, OOPS X2   but it seems to run everything else just fine. I use an older twist knob microwave, I have read the the older the better as they are more durable. You can buy a pure sine wave inverter but they are a big buck item. If anyone else has inverter info for Rob please chime in!

JerryT   

[John Eversoll]

Hi Jerry, Is this invert set up something an automotive electrician can do easy..

I think I will just take the rig over to the guy down the street and have him do it..

John

[mccammonds]

I have found there are many items that you can not use on a modified, or clipped sine wave inverter. And you usually find out after its toooooo late and burn your item up.

I mounted my inverter underneath the seat that has the waterpump and the outlet for my generator.    I have made a pig tail cable from my inverters i5 amp outlet to a 30 amp plug in that will accept my shore power plug.

Now all I have to do is either plug my shore power cord into the inverter, the generator or go to shore power.  This eliminates the relay issue.

I would suggest you use size 1/0 to 4/0 welding cable  from your house battery to your inverter.  Yes, I know that may be over kill but you will never have any drop in current to worry about.  The out put of the inverter should be at least 8 to 10 gauge wire.

Hard wiring an inverter is simple is you have the tools to run the wires.

[JerryT]

Hi Mac
Good info!
I mounted my inverter to the bottom side of the plywood that the fridge sits on between it and the wheel well upside down, I didn't think it would care That made it close to the the house battery. My transfer switch is pop riveted to the back of the battery box. I think the advice to use 8 to 10 gauge wire on the output is great. I think I only used 12 gauge on mine. The next time I have it open I will upgrade it. I am using a 31 series deep cycle battery (just fits) with great success for my needs, one or two days here and there. It sure is nice to have the type of power you want when you need it!

JerryT 

[John Eversoll]

   Ya know I read this stuff every night, and I have to hand it to you guys....

When I was a yougn man I would do stuff like that and not bat an eye.

mNow, I am an old fart like my son says and I am so afraid of trying thing like

what you are doing...  My hat is off to you     John

[drwfc7]

Hi JerryT
I Just received my transfer switch from Progressive Dynamics and am getting ready to revamp my electricals.I'm curious on how a inverter setup was wired to disable the converter during use.From what I read from past posts is that a relay was added to disable the converter?How did you accomplish this?The air conditioning breaker must also be tripped off but in my neck of the woods I normally won't use it much,so probably won't normally be on anyway but how was the converter disabled with a relay?Was it wired in the output to the converter and setup so it would only energize when shore power or generator power is available?I guess the fog hasn't cleared enough to picture how to do this.I'm also curious about the group 31 battery in the battery box.All I can fit in mine is a group 27 and it's a tight fit but maybe it has to do with chassis?as my Clipper is a Chev chassis and not the more common Dodge?Thanks for any info .    Bob