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Interior Restoration Project Help ?

Started by dboling, August 30, 2009, 09:32:15 AM

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John Eversoll

It maybe??? I thought that it was from a newer vehicle, available from any auto parts store

I can't do that right now I just need to get the motor and trans back in.

I am waiting for the trans........... I'll just bolt them together and slide them in at one time.

I just hope that that  is possible,,,,Since I took the motor out thru the door and drug the trans out the side........

Went over to Sears and got looking at the power inverters they have there.

They have one that is a 2,000 amp or watt.......  or what ever. That would eb enough to operate
just about anything that I will put in the rig and then some.  As soon as I can get my Camera back
I will take some pics.

Nice chatting with ya!!! John :)

dboling

#46
Quote from: prophetdaniel2 on September 21, 2009, 09:32:09 PM
I think you want the 78 amp alternator John. IIRC. I want one too.
-D

I was at CarQuest today for vacuum line and checked on alternators, they make a 100 amp for around $95.

dboling

Quote from: John Eversoll on September 22, 2009, 01:36:32 AM
It maybe??? I thought that it was from a newer vehicle, available from any auto parts store

I can't do that right now I just need to get the motor and trans back in.

I am waiting for the trans........... I'll just bolt them together and slide them in at one time.

I just hope that that  is possible,,,,Since I took the motor out thru the door and drug the trans out the side........

Went over to Sears and got looking at the power inverters they have there.

They have one that is a 2,000 amp or watt.......  or what ever. That would eb enough to operate
just about anything that I will put in the rig and then some.  As soon as I can get my Camera back
I will take some pics.

Nice chatting with ya!!! John :)


Not sure on the Clipper, but dodge has whats called a K-member that the suspension and engine mount to. You should have been able to pull the engine out though the bottom of the vehicle, but either way you pull an engine on an RV is a lot of work.

I have a 3000 watt inverter I used when trucking. I had it mounted in a freightliner and it powered anything I wanted. The problem is that it can suck your battery dead in no time. I also have a 75 watt inverter I use just to operate my television and charge my laptop, I could watch a couple hours of TV without to much battery drain.
I had 3 or 4 batteries in the truck, so I had lots of battery storage capacity + driving 600 - 700 miles a day keeps the battries charged up.

dboling

Here's the daytime wiring picts I promised.
I also included the before pict of the main alternator wire, the wire is about 2 feet long.

prophetdaniel2

#49
OOOOHHHH! that old Alt wiring is classy! :o Glad you got that out of service. Nice replacement job!
-D
p.s. there was something about making sure to rewire the (alt gauge?) if you upgraded the alternator. I think, something about too much juice could lead to system meltdown in the old wiring setup. I think this was Jerryt again. I would have to dig for the post.

Oh here it is:
http://americanclipperownersclub.com/techforum/index.php?topic=1266.0

dboling

Quote from: prophetdaniel2 on September 22, 2009, 09:26:19 AM
OOOOHHHH! that old Alt wiring is classy! :o Glad you got that out of service. Nice replacement job!
-D
p.s. there was something about making sure to rewire the (alt gauge?) if you upgraded the alternator. I think, something about too much juice could lead to system meltdown in the old wiring setup. I think this was Jerryt again. I would have to dig for the post.

Oh here it is:
http://americanclipperownersclub.com/techforum/index.php?topic=1266.0

I think my alt gauge has been modified already. one wire bolts directly to the gauge post and the other post has a little silver box in between the gauge and the wire.
I've already had the dash apart and the first thing I looked for was a loose alt gauge wire, which was it had. It's very common that it's loose.

Theres another issue I need to look into. The 1970s dodge vans had a problem with the steering box breaking the frame off where the box was mounted. It was a recall item and the dealers fixed them for free. I'm wondering if these dodge frames on the Clippers had the same problem, hope not.

JerryT

dboling
That silver box may be a circuit breaker. I run part of my power thru the amp gauge and the other part direct to the house battery via a wire from the alternator stud to the battery isolator. I see no reason to run all the power thru the amp gauge. Part of the power will find it's way back to charge the start battery thru the battery isolator when it's engaged (engine running) I run a power inverter while I drive so as to have 110v for the fridge (save propane) and charging toys. If you think about it, with the lights on you have at least 35 light bulbs glowing, plus any coach draw, and battery charging of course. I'd rather do the work and take the safe route then have a breakdown ruin my vacation/Clipper.
JerryT

JerryT

I could see a manual steering box breaking the frame but not a power box, let us know what you find out as I would like to know.
JerryT

dboling

#53
Quote from: JerryT on September 23, 2009, 07:44:26 PM
I could see a manual steering box breaking the frame but not a power box, let us know what you find out as I would like to know.
JerryT
I ran this for B100, B200 and B300 since I wasn't sure what model the Clipper is.
The recalls covered the B100, B200 and B300 and had the same campain number.
I only ran 1977 but the recall might cover more years.

Here a link to the dot recall database.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm


Make: DODGE  Model: B100
Model Year: 1977
Manufacturer: CHRYSLER CORPORATION Mfr's Report Date: MAR 07, 1980
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 80V027000  N/A
NHTSA Action Number: N/A 
Component: STRUCTURE:FRAME AND MEMBERS
Potential Number of Units Affected: 1000000
Summary:
THE FRONT RAIL EXTENSION MAY EXPERIENCE FATIGUE CRACKING NEAR THE AREA WHERE THE POWER STEERING GEAR ATTACHES TO THE FRAME. IF THE CRACK PROGRESSES THROUGH MOST OR ALL OF THE RAIL SECTION, STEERING SYSTEM FREE PLAY ACCOMPANIED BY METALLIC RATTLE NOISE WILL BE EXPERIENCED.
Consequence:
 
Remedy:
AFFECTED VEHICLES WILL BE WELD REPAIRED AND A REINFORCEMENT ROD WILL BE INSTALLED OVER THE CRACKED AREA.
Notes:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: LIGHT TRUCKS.SYSTEM: STRUCTURE; LEFT FRONT FRAME RAIL.CONSEQUENCES OF DEFECT: THE CRACK CONDITION MAY CAUSE A COMPLETE LOSS OFSTEERING AND AN ACCIDENT.

JerryT

It lists all dodge vans 1971-1978 1/2 ton thru 1 ton+ with power steering. I still think it may be a manual steering issue but not reported properly. The power boxes are easier on things than all the twisting that the manual ones take. Still I am going to keep an eye on mine but I am not worried at all. With a power unit, when you hit the turn stops the pump bypasses the fluid inside it which keeps you from over exerting the box. I have seen trucks from out west with broken frames from "running the range" but we don't get that here as we are mostly on paved road and our off-roading is low speed on soft turf. Miles of wash board road is another story!
JerryT

dboling

Quote from: JerryT on September 24, 2009, 05:43:55 AM
It lists all dodge vans 1971-1978 1/2 ton thru 1 ton+ with power steering. I still think it may be a manual steering issue but not reported properly. The power boxes are easier on things than all the twisting that the manual ones take.

JerryT

Jerry,
The reason I knew about the recall is I had to fix one right around 1980,
If I had known it was a recall item it would have gone to the dealer since it was one pain of a job. I don't remember the van year but do remember it was power steering.
My boss had me strip the front end and cut the front rail extention off, weld a new one on from the wrecking yard and reinforce it with plate steel. not a job you forget very easy.

I also have a friend in Seattle with a Dodge Tradesman. His front rail extention broke and I directed him to the dealer for the repair. This time I had a chance to inspect how the dealer repaired the issue. The dealer tack welded the frame back together, lay-ed re-bar across the the crack and welded it in place. was one of the uglyest repairs I've ever seen.

I understand what you mean when you say manual steering would create more damage.

I might be wrong but I disagree.
Hydraulics create great force with little to no effort and all hydraulic systems have a check valve.

Examples:
Floor jack against a bumper Jack, floor jack wins.
Hydraulic press against a crank press, hydraulic press wins.
Hydraulic log splitter against a splitting maul, Hydraulic log splitter wins.

Of course the hydraulic pressue depends on the rating of the hydraulic pump, ram and check valve.


P.S.
I did get a chance to read the post you deleted just before this one...

dboling

#56
IMPORTANT !!!

While I was playing on the DOT recall search engine I ran into this recall for the American Clipper under equipment. Since the Company is out of business the vehicle owner would be responsible to fix this issue.


Brand Name: AMERICAN CLIPPER  Part No. or  Model No.: AMERICAN CLIPPER 
Production Dates: FEB 01, 1976 - JUN 01, 1978 
Manufacturer: AMERICAN CLIPPER CORP. Mfr's Report Date: MAY 08, 1979
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 79V119000  N/A
NHTSA Action Number: N/A 
Component: EQUIPMENT:RECREATIONAL VEHICLE:LPG LINES AND FITTINGS
Potential Number of Units Affected: 3630

Summary:
UNDER CERTAIN SEVERE ROAD CONDITIONS, THE COPPER TUBING WHICH CONNECTS THE HOT WATER HEATER TO THE MAIN PROPANE GAS LINE COULD RUPTURE, THEREBY RESULTING IN A PROPANE GAS LEAK WITHIN THE MOTORHOME.
Consequence:
 
Remedy:
DEALER WILL REPLACE THE EXISTING COPPER TUBING WHICH CONNECTS THE HOT WATER HEATER TO THE MAIN PROPANE GAS LINE.

Notes:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: MOTORHOMES.
SYSTEM: L.P.GAS; LINES.

CONSEQUENCES OF DEFECT: IN THE EVENT OF SUCH A LEAK, THE ACCUMULATION OF PROPANE GAS COULD RESULT IN AN EXPLOSION CAUSING DAMAGE TO THE MOTORHOME AND SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY TO OCCUPANTS.

NOTE: THERE MAY BE NO WARNING THAT A LEAK HAS OCCURRED SINCE THE ODOR OF THE PROPANE GAS MAY BE DIFFICULT TO DETECT. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE ENTIRE PROPANE SYSTEM BE SHUT OFF AT THE PROPANE TANK UNTIL THE REPLACEMENT RUBBERLINE HAS BEEN INSTALLED.



JerryT

My 78 has the upgraded water heater propane hose.
JerryT

JerryT

dboling
I will ask Aarin about the cause of the frame breakage next time I see him. I have seen more problems with the manual set up than power. It's not uncommon for the old manual boxes to wear (sloppy) inside which allows a hammering effect on the fasteners. Once the box starts to move or shuck around I have seen them then break their moorings. The steering ratio in a manual box is higher than a power one so as to provide leverage to the operator. On a power box once you hit pump bypass your done turning the wheel, you can end travel a manual box and do some damage with that type of leverage. Most people don't maintain their cars they just complain when they break. I have a friend that never turns his steering wheel to lock and claims he has never had a steering failure in all the trucks he has bought new. You have seen two of these fail, in your opinion what caused them to break and why don't they all break? Did yours start to have loose steering or was it a good today bad tomorrow deal? I see it was a repair as needed and not a total recall. I wonder how many needed repair? Dodge built thousand's and thousand's of these vans, I see the defect sheet says 1000000! and that was for 1971-1978. They built the B van in Missouri and Canada back then, I wonder if both had the same problem?  For that frame horn to break it has to move around and have reason to break off. 
I bought all the old Clipper newsletters and read them but I don't think there was ever a problem reported by the members, the propane line/hose recall is in there, and a lot of other good tips and ideas. The Clipper store sells the. complete set. Keep up the good work and posts.
JerryT

John Eversoll

 :) Hey Jeeerrrrrry, it's me, john....

I was just reading about the cracks in the frame by the steering box.

I had a crack in the frame about four years ago took off the the box ground down the area and welded the crack then ground down the weld and put a piece of plate stock over that and welded that over the crack area and haven't had a prob since.  I keep checking the area but will have to check when we get the rig back on the road.  As far as the propane lines leaking I will have to check the lines and see if they need replacing!!! John