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Power center

Started by retrorob, September 13, 2010, 10:57:09 AM

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JerryT

Hi Bob

What I did on mine was to add a N.O. (normally open) relay that uses a 120 volt coil, I.E. it takes 120 volts to make the relay close. I connected the coil of the relay to the input side of the transfer switch that I use for shore/gen power.  When the relay coil gets power it will close its contacts. These are the contacts that I used to switch the converter on and off. When you are not on shore/gen power (the relay is open/off) and turn on the inverter the transfer switch directs that power to your house panel and the relay gets no power (it is wired to the other side of the transfer switch) so the converter stays off. I bought my relay from a heating/cooling supply house and I made sure it was a continuous duty relay. I have my converter on a breaker all by its self. The output from that breaker then goes to the relay and from there it goes to the converter. As for the roof AC, I just don't turn it on when we use the inverter. Hope this helps, if you need more help we could call each other on the phone.

JerryT

drwfc7

Hi JerryT
Thanks for the reply.After reading it after about 3 times the fog began to clear and I think I've got it down in my mind.I'm going to use a double bank 2 way switch rated at 30 amp dc to switch between generator and inverter instead of a 2nd transfer switch to keep costs down.(Something I had sitting in the garage for years) and it should work great,just have to turn switch instead of auto transfer for the inverter or generator which will go to the autotransfer switch..Did you have any problem adding wires from the transfer switch over to the converter?I haven't checked to see if there is a underfloor cavity to run thru or not.It's been raining quite a bit lately and hasn't been inviting to crawl under to investigate.
How about the group 31 battery?The battery box on mine is awful tight and all it will fit is a group 27.With wing nuts on the battery posts and a metal box lining it is a little scary.I'm going to add a non-conductive ceiling piece to mine during the relay transfer switch update.Upgrade projects should keep me busy through the winter.I like your bumper tube mod and plan to do it to mine along with various other ideas that others have done to theirs.Thanks again.   Bob

JerryT

Hi Bob

The battery box in my clipper is NOT grounded, it is supported by the fiberglass body. My 31 series battery sets on the floor of the box and the terminals just miss, but they have touched the box before going in and out. Thats when I realized it was ok for them to touch (one at a time). I was waiting for that BIG spark flash bang but I lucked out ;)  I use two transfer switches, one for shore/gen and the output from that one goes over to the other transfer switch on one side and my inverter on the other side and the output from that switch goes to my breaker box. My shore/gen transfer switch is mounted above my left rear wheel under the rear dinette seat. My other transfer switch is pop riveted to the back of my battery box, I get access to it by un-screwing my breaker box and laying it forward on the floor. My wires have enough slack to allow this. The floor between the two rear fender wells is hollow. I used the factory generator wire as a pull wire and pulled it out while pulling in new wires. I have added circuits to my coach this way. The way this coach was built makes it easy to work on IMHO. It sounds like your off to a good start, feel free to ask any questions, good electrical work is a #1 priority any place you sleep!

JerryT

USNRetired

Okay, here goes the dumb question(s) again.  ;-)

I've read in a few places where some have problems with the house battery over charging and boiling out all the water when on shore power for extended periods.  Last time I was out, I noticed my house battery wasn't holding a charge so when I got home, I checked it and sure enough, it needed water badly.  I ended up using a little over half a gallon of distilled water to fill all the cells.  Now I need to put a good charge on the house battery, that will happen this Wednesday. 

My biggest question is:  How do I avoid the overcharging?  What do I check?  How do I check it?  I have the Party model with the rear kitchen & rear bath.  I am still learning where everything is and now know where the house breaker/fuse panel is located.  Is this where the converter is located as well?  Do the house lights run off the battery even when I'm plugged in to shore power? 

Does anyone have practical, easy to understand instructions/diagrams/pictures drawins with crayons?  My email is: marjimjo@cox.net.
Jim & Marina in Beautiful Oceanside, California
ACOC #3714
1977 Rear Kitchen Party Model (821FC)

JerryT

#19
Hi Jim
On my 78 the power converter is attached to the back of my Progressive Dynamics panel. The best way to think about it, is that everything runs off the battery and the converter charges the battery. I know from my experience that the battery needs to be topped off about twice a year. If I don't then it gets low and (boils) keeps going lower even faster. I updated my converter to a modern one that I bought from P.D. (they are 20 mi up the road) This new one is supposed to charge better and help avoid water loss. I also went up one size in amperage since I now use a 31 series battery and have more lights and things installed. I leave mine plugged in all the time. If you lost that much water then a new battery is probably in your near future. You might also use a timer and charge your Clipper just a short time each day until you upgrade that converter or get good at adding water :D

JerryT

USNRetired

Thanks for the info JerryT!!!  I am taking the cheap route first and getting good at adding water.  I already have a table that adjusts to the right height for sliding the battery out easily.  ;-)

Again, Thanks!
Jim & Marina in Beautiful Oceanside, California
ACOC #3714
1977 Rear Kitchen Party Model (821FC)

USNRetired

bought a new battery.  Am still going to keep an eye on the water.  But think replacing the old 2003 battery solved my problem - I hope.  ;-)
Jim & Marina in Beautiful Oceanside, California
ACOC #3714
1977 Rear Kitchen Party Model (821FC)

JerryT

I think you will be fine.

JerryT

USNRetired

I know it's been a few months since this thread was started, hashed and rehashed.  But maybe one of you who've done this kept notes, took a few pictures, and are willing to help out an old fart.  All of my electrical is working fine, especially after I replaced my battery.  I have absolutely no complaints about how it works.  HOWEVER, ;-) I am considering installing a or some solar panels.  I have a 4000W Generator that I carry on a cargo carrier attached to the receiver on the back, but would like to be able to run my TV in the late evening without firing up old bessie.  It would also be nice to be a little less dependent on fossile fuel while dry camping.  I have a conceptual problem dealing with inverters and converters, visualising where and how to mount and wire them.  I do understand electricity/electronics - but have this darn mental block on things like this.  Pictures, drawings, third grade english.  hahahahaha....  help?
Jim & Marina in Beautiful Oceanside, California
ACOC #3714
1977 Rear Kitchen Party Model (821FC)

Horst

You are NOT electrically challenged. That is MY claim to Clipper fame, and I don't appreciate you trying to steal it from me! ;D
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

USNRetired

I bow to the master... hahahahahah    :D
Jim & Marina in Beautiful Oceanside, California
ACOC #3714
1977 Rear Kitchen Party Model (821FC)

John Eversoll



  Show me   "Wash the Cripper"

   Wax on   Wax off

ha  ha haha hehe hehnehe  oh I am so bad

:)