The "new" rear-end I got at "JB's Cold Beer and Garage" in Fancy Gap.... in addition to a shot axle bearing/brakes on the uphill side of how it was stacked..... also now has a really leaky driveshaft seal.  The underbelly is just SOAKED down there!!!

Anybody have step-by-step tips on how to replace it?   Probably along with whatever bearing's in there.  Can I do it from underneath, just pulling the driveshaft... without pulling the axle?

Mui gracias, amigos (that's Cal talk for thanx  :lol: ).

sorry Andy...I dont have any answers for you but I am waiting to see what responses you get as I would like to check my axle bearings to see the condition, as my clipper sat for 5 years..,,, i have been told that its possiable for the top of the bearing not resting in oil can rust.....
 

Hiyya Rasta

Just talking to BigRay about ya, you dropped outta sight..... we figured you got busy with a really good doobie.... :lol:  :lol:

The axle bearings, I know about.... just did that one.  I was asking about the driveshaft seal/bearing.

To do the axle bearings.... jack her up... take the wheels off.... take the 8 little nuts outta the center thing... pop that cover thing loose.... axle, drum pull out.  Bearing's right there, there's no seal.

Make sure you mark the shaft while it is attached so that you'll know how to replace it. Makes reinstallation easier!

Quote from: "Andy Illes"The "new" rear-end I got at "JB's Cold Beer and Garage" in Fancy Gap.... in addition to a shot axle bearing/brakes on the uphill side of how it was stacked..... also now has a really leaky driveshaft seal.  The underbelly is just SOAKED down there!!!

Anybody have step-by-step tips on how to replace it?   Probably along with whatever bearing's in there.  Can I do it from underneath, just pulling the driveshaft... without pulling the axle?

Mui gracias, amigos (that's Cal talk for thanx  :lol: ).

That just figures doesn't it Andy.
I guess I am not quite sure what you need directions doing?
the axle bearings? you must have them already fixed if you know what is wrong?
The other leak? is this from the transmission tailshaft housing?
I just always need more information :?:  sorry.
Rodney

No Andy..I'm still around....was going thru a cooling off period....at the point now where i need to dig deep into the pocket for $$$....
thanks for the info on the axle...just pull the 8 nuts and slide that bad boy out eh? and yes i will mark the possition....will the bearing be on the axle or left inside the hub??
doobie eh?    

Quote from: "Rastaman"No Andy..I'm still around....was going thru a cooling off period....at the point now where i need to dig deep into the pocket for $$$....
thanks for the info on the axle...just pull the 8 nuts and slide that bad boy out eh? and yes i will mark the possition....will the bearing be on the axle or left inside the hub??
doobie eh?    

To check the rear axle bearing in a dana 60 or 70 for that matter is to raise and block the side you want to check. remove the rear wheels you may want to break loose the lug nuts before you raise the axle. you then remove the nuts or bolts to remove the axle if it is stuck leave the nut in the studs so's not to damage the threads and with a large hammer sharply hit the end of the axle shaft to jar it loose. it should come loose after a few hits. after you remove the axle shaft you will need a large socket desgined for the axle nuts I bought mine at NAPA for 20 dollars and it will stay in the Clipper. remove the first nut but you will need to bend the lock tabs out of the way first. after the first nut is off remove the lock washer and remove the inner nut. now you can slide the brake drum / hub off the axle housing. it the drum doen't slide off you will need to make sure the e brake is not on and loosen the brake adjuster thru the small oblong hole on the lower area of the backing plate. The adjusters rotate down looking from the wheel side to tighten so turn them the other way to loosen. if there is a groove in the drum you will have to back off the adjuster quite a ways. after you remove the brake drum the bearings will be in the hub, the outter will proabably have already fallen in the dirt by now so it is a good idea to have some thing down to work on if you are out side. If I am not in the shop I use a piece of old plywood under me.
lay the brake drum big side down and with a long punch carefully find the bearing and rap the bearing and seal out to the back side. now you can inspect the bearings and races. save the old seals so you can get the correct ones from the parts store.  take them with you NAPA had them in stock for me. put some grease on the bearings before installing back in the hub and a little oil on the seal. carefully reinstall the hub/drum on the axel and reinstall in the same order you took it apart. if the tabs are all broken off of the lock washer get a new one or reuse the old one it if is in good shape. snug the inner nut install lock and tighten the outer nut.
you dealing with a VERY important step right now so besure you have done it right and make sure that everything is tight or if the hub works loose you will be looking for a new axle housing. Pay attention to details if in doubt recheck it....Tighten the brake adjustment bake up spin the drum a few time to see that everything is working smoothly. pat your self have a beer or coolaid what every is your liking and do it all over on the other side. if you are in doubt about doing this kind of work don't find someone with some experence and have them do it.  
Rodney

Wow..... excellent step-by-step for the wheel bearings Rodney.... hat's off to you...  :lol:

Except in my case, I'm asking about the driveshaft seal/bearing, thought I did say that.   Fred's tummy's covered with 90 wt. right there.... can't give him scritchies, get him thumping his feet, without getting greasy, lol.  After the U-joint's off.... what then?  

Know what occurs to me?  We oughtta suggest a new forum to Shayne.... index "how to" pieces like this one of yours on the axle.... for all the ills that beset our beloved little Clips.  Be a huge help for everyone.  I know that's what the tech forum's for.... but it gets cluttered and hard to search.  Maybe a forum's not what I'm talking bout... dunno enough about how this stuff works...  but some sort of separate listing specifically of "how to" stuff... make any sense?

Could include difficulty ratings.... like something's an easy, no-brainer one-beer job.... 6-pak job... take a week off, get a few cases job... better get some Jack too job.... or... fogettaboutit, call Mr. Goodwrench.

Anyway...  enlighten me about the rear axle driveshaft seal/bearing, k?  Thanx

Thanks Rodney....very helpful...I guess its similar to doing a front wheel bearing replacement on a car...however looks like an all day job,will need at least 1/4 bottle of jamaican rum to celebrate after
I like Andy,s idea of a "how to fix it" section.....then guys like Rodney wouldn't have to keep typing the same stuff over and over :roll:

david

Quote from: "Andy Illes"Wow..... excellent step-by-step for the wheel bearings Rodney.... hat's off to you...  :lol:

Except in my case, I'm asking about the driveshaft seal/bearing, thought I did say that.   Fred's tummy's covered with 90 wt. right there.... can't give him scritchies, get him thumping his feet, without getting greasy, lol.  After the U-joint's off.... what then?  

the pinion seal and bearings you are asking about... to check them you will need to remove the yoke which is the part you bolt the drive line to. with the correct size socket and a good impact wrench or a way to hold the yoke {I have a huge pipe wrench that is 3 ft or so long} and a breaker bar which some time is needed to loosen the nut. take the yoke off the pinion and inspect the smooth surface which the seal mates to for wear and grooves. if it is grooved you will need to either replace the yoke or have a speedie sleeve installed { a thin stainless piece which presses over the seal area of the yoke} its best to have some one with a press install this cuz they are very thin and can be crushed very easyily.
next is to pry out the seal in the axle housing and the outer bearing should come out that direction for inspection. you can only check the outer as the inner is on the back side of the pinion and you would have to remove both axles {I'm only going to tell you how to do that once} and drop the carrier out of the housing. the carrier is the piece that the ring gear is bolted to. some times a spreader is needed to remove the carrier. that is what the holes that are cast in to either side of the rear of the housing on the back side are for. when removing the carrier and the ring gear you need to pay close attention to shims and spacers which sometimes are placed on the outside of races and others are pressed on between the bearing and housing and or ring gear. {mark the bearing caps and install the same way they came off}These are all very important shims which set the depth and side clearance of the ring and pinion. This is another area that if you are not comfortable doing DON'T do it as you can trash a perfectly good set of gears if they are not set up correctly. for this or any operation that you are doing that is this complicated you should have a manual handy and follow the specs and torque requirements to the letter. The pinion nut should be a locking type and if after you remove it check to see that it is good to use again or replace it. also there could be shims on the back side of the yoke when you remove it so be aware of this as they can stick to the metal and be lost of fall off with out knowing causing more grief when you reinstall the parts. if you replace any bearings or races the parts should be rechecked and shimmed to specs. it you are going back together with all the same parts you should just replace the seal and install like it came apart. Make sure that pinion nut is tight!!
I should post a disclaimer to my advise. this is only a brief description of what is need to do and the risk of harm to you and your Clipper could occur if you are not properly trained.
WARNING CLIPPER WRENCHING CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH AND POCKET BOOK!!!
good luck
Rodney

Thanks Rodney.... that's what I was asking about.  Yeah, I know better than to get in there.... the limit of what I'd try is the seal and front bearing.

Anybody told you yet that you're a TERRIFFIC asset to this board?

:lol:

my pleasure Andy.
I just happen to have been wrenching on old Mopar iron for as long as I can remember and guess I picked up a few things along the way.
One other thing on your leak is before you take anything apart grab ahold and shake and wiggle the yoke area to see if you can get any movement up and down & lateral. it you get excess movement you need to find out WHY.
keep those cards and letters coming
Rodney

Rodney.....back to the rear wheel bearings....are they lubricated form the grease thats packed into them...or do they get lube from the 90 wt oil in diff....I looked back on previous post and there seems to be some disagreement on this issue.....
david

I grease e'm up with hi temp wheel bearing grease. now you got me guessing that they must get some oil from the differential oil but that would be a long way for the oil  to travel to lube that inner bearing. but if the hubs were getting a good supply of oil wouldn't the hub be full of oil when taken apart? when I took my axle apart there wasn't that much oil there.  now you got me wondering???
Rodney

My turn to help..... they're "wet" bearings.  When the rear end's at the correct level and stuff's spinning.... slings oil out into the bearings.  You shouldda had at least some come out Rodney.  Learned that from JB.