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1978 Clipper 100k mileage question, high mileage and oil type

Started by satorizero, May 26, 2013, 06:46:07 PM

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satorizero

Well... I put 20-50 in the RV (and went from 10-30 to 10-40 in my Jeep... runs a little harder it seems)

So idk... I guess if it fails I can blame those who said to use 20-50 ;)

Btw.. I dont drive the RV at all... I may turn it on for 10 minutes once a week or move it a few feet up and down my street but thats it...

(when I get $1,000 for gas Ima drive more, but not for maybe another year til then)

Clipper Joe

Hi Satorizero,

Did You Replace Oil Filter With The Recommended Short Style? What Brand Do You Use?
I Use To Use Fram Extra Guard But The Last Oil Change I Went & Tried The Mobil One. It Is A little More In Price But Was Told It Has Better Filter Also Has A Better Check Valve System.. 

You Stated You Start Your Clipper A lot , What Is The Reason? Do You Do It To Keep Batteries Charged?

Sometimes You May Want To Put A Small Amount Of Fuel Stabilizer In Gas Tank, Old Gas Is hard On Any Engine. Also On Our Clipper I Try And Keep  About 1/2-3/4 Tank Full. I Have Put Disconnects On All My Batteries, & Try To Put A Moisture  Dry Style Container In Clipper On Rear Of Sink During Winter Months.  These Clippers A Not Fond Of Water, Make Sure You Have Good Seals On Your Over Head Hatches. Keep A Eye Out For Any Water Leaks During A Heavy Rain Storm, Etc.

Hope This Helps :)

Ps; No Problem  On Your Oil Choice, Just Make Sure You Check It, And Keep It Clean, Log Down any Change In Usage, Between Oil Changes 3k Miles Or Once Yearly. 


Joe     
1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher

satorizero

@ClipperJoe

Hmmm.. I didnt see any recommendations for the oil filter.. Im using a K&N Gold  filter (dont know the exact model number but I can look on it if you want)... its larger than the cheap one I put on my Jeep... larger meaning longer..

o-O

I start the RV like once a week because every mechanic I talk to and read about says youre supposed to on any vehicle; they say youre never supposed to let a vehicle sit and for my RV, they say im supposed to run it at LEAST once a week to keep things lubricated and stuff.

Clipper Joe

Hi Satorizero,
The K&N Filters is Good.
Do you Have Double Power Steering belts on You 1978 440 Clipper?
I have a 1977 440 It Recommend only Short Filter, Do To May Rub Belts.
have You Checked Space Between Belts & Filter?

I Know that Some Mech. Have Said if you Don't run it may Dry up Seals in Carb.& Gaskets.


I would think if you run weekly it may load up Valves with Carbon Deposits after a short run.

Does any others in Clipper Nation have a post on This?

Now if you go for a Short Run Monthly Maybe 5 Miles & Hit Freeway to Open up a little.
That Would Be Better.

Have you Seen Police Cars on Freeway after running in town at low speeds, they open the patrol car sometimes..

Joe

1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher

Toedtoes

Whether you need to start the engine each week is up to interpretation.  Some folks say it must be done, others say it can sit for a year with no problem.  What is important is that if you're going to start it, you need to let it reach full operating temperature.  10 minutes isn't going to do that. 

My Dodge mechanic family members say to take it out for a 30+ minute drive including highway every 2 weeks to 2 months (depending on the individual vehicle's behavior at start up*).  This gets the engine moving, eliminates carbon build up, charges up the battery, and gets the oil fully warmed up to operating temperature so it can coat everything properly (remember the information about oil weights).   You can also make sure that everything else is in working order - brakes, steering, etc.

*Depending on the shape/ability of the engine, battery, etc., one vehicle may need to be started every 2 weeks or it won't turn over easily, another vehicle may be fine sitting for a couple months.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Clipper Joe

Hi Toedtoes,

Thats Well Explained, ;D

I Had To Make A Trip To So. Cal, Hope I Can Return In Time For National Meet On 10-25

I Have Called Wagon Master Before I Left For Trip, Wanted To Know If You Can Pay @ Gold Strike,

I Know Reg Form Stated You Had To Have It In By 10/18/2013 I Just Don't Know If I Will Be Back.

Does Anyone Know If You Can Pay On First Day?

Thanks & Keep Posts Coming :)


Joe & Denise
1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher

Toedtoes

Thanks! Sometimes I actually do remember what I'm taught.  ;D

I would think it's OK.  From what I've heard, the club has the "group" location so we'll be by ourselves.  My guess is that there will be enough spaces to account for a last moment attendee.  But, hopefully the wagonmaster will respond to you and give you a definite response.

Hope we'll see you at the rally.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

retrorob

Ok, I'm going to throw my 2 cents in here about oil. Most people dont realize the the crank doesn't actually ride on the bearing it rides on a layer of oil between the bearings and crank(and rods) surface. The more wear on the bearing from higher miles, wear on the oil pump so its not as efficient and heat all play into the equation. I have run 20-50 in many of my higher mile big blocks with good results. The theory that "thicker" oil wont get to where it's needed is definitely not one I subscribe to. Bottom line for me....high miles and lots of heat run thicker oil.
I am including a link on oil theory here. It technical but sheds light on the topic here.


http://www.fordfe.info/Forum/Oil.html

Horst

A few more comments on this topic, which will never have an "answer":
1) Oil filter? - Wix.....enough said.
2) Another benefit of "thicker" oil is in "start-up" wear & tear. Cold starting is when a LOT of "wear" happens to engine components.......thicker oil stays on those parts longer in between start-ups.
3) The "tolerances" of our old big blocks are very forgiving.......thicker oil has no problem getting to where it needs to be. My 1975 (even rebuilt) Dodge isn't anything remotely like a modern truck/van with respect to tolerances.
The above is my opinion only, your mileage may vary.......
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

Toedtoes

Quote from: Horst on October 19, 2013, 06:48:29 PM
A few more comments on this topic, which will never have an "answer":

I think you can ask 10 race car drivers, 10 engineers, 10 mechanics, 10 taxi drivers, etc. and you won't find any pattern as to their answers.  I guess it's like asking "which is better Dodge or Chevy" (of course, we all know it's Dodge  ;) )
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

satorizero

Thank you guys.
Ill stick to 20-50w

And ill start driving more than just idling for 10 minutes. Glad to know