Coach Battery keeps dying

[DPStrom]

New Member/owner 76 dodge.  Maybe should've read forum before buying? Lotta things went wrong, but am getting an idea of operations. I keep finding various reason for my new coach battery dying.  First time was learning that despite propane heat being turned off, heater pump can be on (by AC/DC).  Second time was light in battery compartment...didn't know there was one there, but friend helping re-charge battery turned it on, and left it on!!

Now, after camping for a week, hooked up to electricity, I ran fridge for first time with AC.  Drove back with fridge on DC (5 hours with rest stop) Came back with power... turning fridge OFF first thing.

Did driving with DC drain battery?  Or is there an AC/DC pump in fridge, too?  Since there is no OFF selection to the thermostat, should I have turned it to Defrost?

I have located the power swiitches in fuse box.  can't read labels, but believe #1 to be AC connection, #2 to be DC connection, #3 to be converter/recharger? just guessing.

Should I be turning off main power switches when not in use?

Fuse box under couch is protected by kick plate...and when kicked, I have lost power during dry camp DC only.  second kick turned it back on.

I have little knowledge of electric or engine parts.  and it's Just me and my daughter. I'm not afraid to fix things if given the knowledge.  but Knowledge is my greatest limit.

So I'd appeciate any help I can get.  When all else fails, I tell my daughter it's like tenting with a hard-top! -Diane

[Rodney]

Welcome DPStrom,
you have come to the right place for help and advice with you clipper.
On an older coach you will find that there will be maintance and repairs that will go along with your purchase. But don't get to discouraged or overwhelmed everything can be fixed in time. Check out the repairs and mods thread I have done to my clipper in the past, it is worth it.

As for your electric issues There are several things to check out. you need to understand some of the functions of the electric control box to trouble shoot it. A digital volt meter will be needed. I bought mine at harbor freight for less that 5 dollars {I have several an leave one in the home at all times}. Is this the eclectic box you are referring to http://americanclipperownersclub.com/techstop/viewtopic.php?t=862
It should me similar, The breakers are for the 110 voltage when either plugged in to power or while running your generator. breakers on mine are for roof Air Conditioner and 110 plug ins. The small automotive type fuses {the little glass ones} are for the DC or 12 volt side of the system.
coach lights, and main power to the converter. These fuses should all be checked to see that they are not blown and that they are not corroded.
this is where you would use your volt meter. do this when not plugged in to your land line. have access to you battery now and turn on a few lights and check your voltage at the battery. the voltage needs to be low to see if the converter is working. now plug in to 110 and see of the voltage increased if so good deal your converter is working. now unplug the 110
check the voltage again  at the battery, start the engine and check the voltage again if it increases you are charging the coach battery with the alternator from the engine. all of the tests are done after you have cleaned all of the battery connections and fuses and carefully check the connections in the controller box. Check all of the grounds that they are making good contact to the frame of where they are attached.
I am sure there are other things to look for but this is a start.  the link I provided describes how I fixed my box and it now works as good as new.
running a fridge on DC will suck the life out a battery in no time from my experience and will really test the electric system.
keep us posted and feel free to ask more questions, there are plenty of good people here with good experience and are glad to help.
Rodney

[DPStrom]

Thanks rodney. I believe that'll be my best shot.  I've had some of the electrical re-done but nothing done with converter or battery (other than new battery).

On the inside panel is where the 3 switches are.  The big one to the right I think is generator.  The left two are the one that I think are running AC and DC indepentdently? .

Under ideal situations, I should have to be turning these off, correct? Leaving them "on" with all systems off should not drain battery?

Running fridge on DC is BAD?

Maybe I'll attempt the Volt-meter. Even with that I'm unsure of what I'd be doing.  Call for friend? Someone more grounded.

Beautiful day today..maybe run to river rather than fretting over Clipper.

Thanks for reply

[Rodney]

Thanks rodney. I believe that'll be my best shot.  I've had some of the electrical re-done but nothing done with converter or battery (other than new battery).

Your Welcome

On the inside panel is where the 3 switches are.  The big one to the right I think is generator.  The left two are the one that I think are running AC and DC indepentdently? .
yes should be the 12 volt fuses there to

Under ideal situations, I should have to be turning these off, correct? Leaving them "on" with all systems off should not drain battery?
I never mess with them unless I need to reset a breaker. they are disabled when on Shore power.

Running fridge on DC is BAD?
if all is working ok you can run it on dc when the engine is running and your sure this is charging the coach battery.

Maybe I'll attempt the Volt-meter. Even with that I'm unsure of what I'd be doing.  Call for friend? Someone more grounded.
Yes but it is good to have an idea how the thing works if you need to fix it while on the road.

Beautiful day today..maybe run to river rather than fretting over Clipper.
Me to was at the lake Friday and today Maybe if I get caught up on things around the home. really behind on the yard work and watering. :roll:
See ya round
Rodney

Thanks for reply

[Horst]

I had a similar problem a few years back
I wasn't too handy with a volt meter at the time - still not that good with one to be honest.

Anyways - turned out to be a bad connection/ground on the bathroom fan. It was constantly "on" and drawing power - not enough to actually turn on the fan mind you - which might have been frozen up anyway. The fan had a push button switch, so I never knew if it was on or off.

My electrical guru went around and tested all the 12 volt stuff, and voila - there it was. Fixed that connection - and no more problems.

[mikeyo]

am i to believe you can run the fridge off the battery instead of the propane? this is safer when driving, right?
my battery in the back isn't getting juiced by the alternator at all. i hhhave to change it every month or so. what to do?
i put new carpet in the cockpit, and 2 new captains chairs too! and painted the hood finally. she's looking more ship- shape!

[Rodney]

I'd like to see the seats you installed can you post a picture?
you need to check the wire and connections to the relay under the hood, that the wire is connected to the coach battery could be the relay is bad to. I hear my relay click when I turn the ignition on, the relay is just an electric switch that allows the power to go to the coach battery when ignition is turn on and when ignition is off the switch opens the circuit so the battery for the engine won't be ran down when using the coach lights, pump and what other 12 volt accessories you have running in the coach.
The way my clipper is wired when the ignition switch is on Accessory position it also closes the circuit  allowing power to flow to both batteries. When I am charging my battery with a trickle charger {or plugged in to shore power if all is working in the electric control box} I turn the in switch to acc. this allows both batteries to charge at the same time.
It should be a real simple thing to fix once you under stand what the relay is doing.
Rodney

[Richard Peterson]

Your refrigerator can run on 12 volts when you are driving.  Just be aware that it draws about 10 amps which is significant.  You would not want to be on 12 volts if you were stopped for any length of time.  It is safer to use the 12 volts while driving instead of gas.  Your gas should be turned off at the tank when driving.  This is to prevent a big problem if a tire blows and takes out the gas line.  You do need to find out how well the alternator is charging your house battery.  Find someone who can help you with this.  The water pump runs only when the pressure drops, like when you open a tap.  If it runs at any other time, you either have a leak, or a bad pressure switch on the pump.    

[DPStrom]

I think I discovered my original problem to be with the thermostat setting. I drove back 5 hours on battery-still having power after getting home, and switched the power to OFF.  I do believe that since the thermostat, being a separate switch, did not have an "OFF", I had MAX, 6-5-4-3-2-1; G; and DEF...I think I left the setting on "G".  I guess the Good isn't for GOOD.  

I plugged in, and reset to DEF, while off, and my battery took and held the charge.

Someone thought the G is in reference to Gas---which has a whole 'nother set of controls.  Maybe theres a pump or motor for the AIR even if left OFF?

Anyone know the setting for the knobs?  The labels are ambiguous.

Hoping my next camp will be trouble free...just getting better?