New Owner

[ExTookItAll]

Hi folks -

Name says it all... wife left and took everything. I went RV shopping and bought a '79 Clip, 440, 24 ft. and it is now my home.

I have a zillion questions, as I've never owned an RV before, but am a veteran camper. First off, if anyone has a Clip owners manual, I'd be in debt for a copy of it... Private message me for my mailing address if you can help there.

Next, I'm having extreme power issues. The motor was worked on (new head gaskets, timing chain, etc...) and a rebuilt TQ put on it. She times up nicely (8 BTDC) and just purrs. She doesn't hesitate from a dead stop, but once up around 30 mph, she starts getting sluggish. On the FWY, the best I can coax her up to is 60 mph. At 60, she is laboring hard. There is still gas pedal left, but pressing it further does nothing but seem to flood her. I have meticulously gone through the motor via old Motor manual docs from the local library; she's nearly factory at this point (all smog controls for CA are now functional).

I'm wondering if I have a transmission problem? The last shift occurs around 30 mph, and at FWY speed, it just seems to be winding out, like it wants to shift one more time. I'm at my wits end here. I don't know if this vehicle only does around 60 mph and that's normal, or how a normal transmission should 'feel', etc... any insight will be appreciated. Want to get the motor done, smogged, and start on the interior.

This is a great community! I'm happy to be amongst other Clip owners!

- Keith

[Shayne]

It's only a 3 speed auto. Mine ran at about 3000 RPM at 60.  That's about as fast as I'd go for any amount of time.  But I still had plenty of power.  I could maintain 55-60 up some fairly steep grades.

When accelerating, the 1-2 shift happend at 15-20 I think.  2-3 would be 35-40.  I think 3000rpm in 2nd gear was 42mph.

Also, there never was a real 'Owners Manual'  Just the colection of individual manuals for the misc appliances etc.

Good luck with the new rig.  Also, you do know that the 24 footers are the rare machine right?   Only 25 of them were made.

[ExTookItAll]

Thanks for the reply, Shayne -

Only a 3 speed? Wow... well all 3 are there and she shifts fairly smoothly. Guess that's not my problem then.  :? Reading through another post, someone had similar symptoms and ended up replacing all the fuel lines and filter(s). That will have to be my next stab at it. I found the main fuel line (barrel type) filter on the passenger side along the underside. Are there any sub-filters to look for?

Was requesting any docs for the specific reason that I have no clue what anything does or how anything works. For example, when I hook up 110v to the junction cable, I have indoor lights. How these work without the 110v supply, I have no clue... so when you're camping, you just don't have indoor lights? I had imagined there was ways to make all this stuff work when you're somewhere where 110v isn't available. I just have no way to find out information without spending hours upon hours googling. The RV air conditioner is a Bycool, and it runs, but does not cool. Do these need to be recharged, or do they require propane? Previous owner claims the fridge works on propane but he never tried it on 110v. I tried it, nothing.... I have to get this engine power handled so I can load up a little propane and test the appliances. Is there an idiot's guide to checking the soundness of the propane connections, or is this something that can only be done by a professional? Of course if I had all the time in the world, none of this would be stressful. Unfortunately I feel pressured to get things working and understand everything AFAP because I have to live in it.

Re: rare machine

I had read that on the website somewhere... but I thought those were '79s? Mine's a '78. What's the real scoop, is it one of those 25 rare rigs? On the title, it does state first year sold as '79, so I guess it's possible..

Let me tell you why I bought this and why I'm happy to run across this community. In my precarious financial situation, I was at my wits end as to what to do to stablize myself until things get better. I had never imagined an RV. I was just driving down some alley and there she was... dirty, neglected, painted some really ugly teal where the brown stripe used to be. I stopped and tried to peak in the rear window when a little old guy came over and asked if I'd like to look inside. 4 days later, I became her new owner, and I guarantee ya she's gonna start getting the TLC she deserves. I bought her because she was classy... I can't explain it in English. In my mind's eye, I saw what she could be with a few $$$ put into her. When I ran across this website and saw pictures of Clippers with their original colors, I just nodded my head... my mind's eye did not fail me. This thing IS classy and is completely set apart from all the other old boxy RVs rumbling down the road. I am a PROUD owner of a Clipper! If you folks saw what they had done to her, you'd cry... she's a million miles from past glory, but I will spend every last minute I have spare to slowly restore her to something that at least can be recognized as a Clipper. I am very mechanically inclined, so all I need is to know how something looked and/or worked at one time, and I can restore it.

All plumbing is sound, that much I have verified. Replaced the shower knob valves (Ace hardware carried the exact replacements). Pump works fine, both sinks and shower run ok. Toilet works. I'll get some pics up soon.. be prepared to weep...  :wink:

- Keith

[terry and karen conkle]

trailer life diretory online rv forum about two pages in there is 35 pages of dodge related stuff, check it out !


           tc

[bigray]

Congrats Keith...

I understood your "english" completely. I love and enjoy my Clipper beyond words too. I've had it almost 2 years. While I was familiar with RV's (rented them in the past) I still had alot to learn. The folks on this forum have assisted me tremedously.

I've read every post on this forum at least once. I advise you to read up, my friend and ask whatever questions you'd like.

As far as the lights.... the lights operate from a 12 volt supply. The supply either come from a automotive deep cycle battery or from 120 volt outlet.

When plugged into to an outlet the 120 volts go thru a coverter which coverts the 120 volts to 12 volts in order to operate the lights, furnace fan, water pump, vent fans. If the converter is equiped with a charger, it also charges the 12 volt battery. If the 120 volt supplied is adequate you can operate the A/C and microwave and the refrigerator in electric mode.

When you are not plugged into 120 volt source the couch lights, furnace fan, water pump, vent fans are powered by the automotive battery that you have. I'm not speakin of the battery under the hood. Most RV's have a secondary deep cycle battery that provide power for the living area. Your Clipper may not have one or it may not be good.

I hope this helps!

Oh.........Got to share this with you. I got my Clipper in November and in January my wife (6 months pregnant) and son took a trip to Atlanta to visit my sister. As the night drew long I figured I would pull over, fire up the generator to operate the furnace and get some sleep and continue on the next morning.

Well my generator wouldn't so I couldn't operate the furnace. At least I thought. We wrapped up tight and almost frooze our you-know-what off that night. Well........turns out the furnance fan operates from the 12 volt battery and doesn't need the generator. I learn that afterwars. Duhhhhhh!

When we got to my sister's place I parked the Clipper and unloaded our things. Like most things in Georgia my sister home is on a hill. When I went outside the next morning to get something from the Clipper I noticed something purple on the floor. It was originating from the refrigerator and went toward the front of the Clipper on the floor (with the slope of course). I open the refrigerator to find the pop cycles and other freezer contents had melted and the refrigerator was cool and not cold. I shook my head figuring the fridge had died. Found out afterward the frig doesn't work if it's not level. Duhh

My point is this.......while I had my Clipper 3 months when these things happend and had read all the post I still had lots to learn.  Like I said take your time and ask questions and you'll get there!

Good luck and agian welcome to the forum.

[ExTookItAll]

Ray! :: salute ::

Thank you sir... being a web/forum-master myself, I know how frustrating it can be to repeat the same things over and over again. On the other hand, I also can relate to the user-side, and often times the best info can be found buried in a reply to a topic that has gone off-topic. I just simply don't have the luxury of time to dig much past the surface (read: Topic) atm, and I thank you for taking the time to repost what is most likely 'common knowledge'. Hopefully it will be common knowledge for me soon. My brain is a bit overloaded with not only the learning curve of the devices themselves, but also the repair of them at the same time! You can't fix something unless you know how it's supposed to work to begin with! haha  :wink:

Anyways, thanks again big guy!

TC - Happy to make your aquaintance. I will check out the site you mentioned when things calm down in a few days. Right now, obviously, web surfing is a luxury  

- Keith

[ExTookItAll]

Ray or whomever can answer...

I found the bay that stores the extra battery  :wink:

For you folks that know what a Clipper draws under an avg load, can someone recommend a deep cycle battery for me? I'd like a min rating, as well as a 'this would be overkill' rating. If you've had good luck with a particular brand (or one to stay away from!), I'd appreciate those comments as well.

Regards,
- Keith

[bigray]

I have a generator and got a group 24 or 27 marine type battery from Walmart. It was $50 or so!

http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volt.htm

[ExTookItAll]

Excellent website Ray... nothing like someone quickly laying it all out, A - Z! Many thanks...  

- Keith

[Conrad]

Fridge operation:  If three way (110vac, 12vdc, propane) I would not recommend running it off of the 12vdc battery for very long.  It is a power hog.  Now if the engine is running well then all right!  Engine alternator provides the charging current and voltage for the deep cycle batt via a solenoid that operates when engine is in the run mode.  Mine is mounted on the engine compartment frame, drivers side, above radiator.  If it goes bad make sure you get a "heavy duty" unit.  Thank goodness for ACE hardware   They ususally have what I want, when I want it, and I ususally want it now.  

Battery charging:  I have found that the inverter/charging unit on the rig I own is not adequate to keep the batt up to snuff.  I use an external batt charger once or twice a year to top off the batt. (12V 2amp mode).  I charge it slow for about two days and that seems to work for me.  I find I get more life from my batt that way.

Battery maintennance:  Don't believe in the "maintennance free" battery hype.  There is no such thing.  When you get a new battery, pop off one of the cell covers to see how much acid is in the cell chamber.  This will give you a reference for the future.  A hydrometer is a usefull tool.  It shows specific gravity of the hydrochloric acid.  SG is usually around 1.250 1.275 when new and fully charged.  Charging of the wet cell battery (of which we are discussing) produces heat.  One can hear the fluid gurgling when charging.  The water component of the hydrochloric acid gradually evaporates thus lowering the fluid level in the cell chamber.  When this is evident, add DISTILLED water.  Don't use spring water, tap water or other bottled water.  We don't want to add minirals to the battery cells.  Minirals gunk up the positive and negative plates that make up the cell structure.  Don't allow any debris to fall into the chambers either.

Batteries in general:  Auto batts such as the cranking battery for the engine are designed to deliver high current cranking amperage (CCA) for short periods of time.  Deep cycles are designed to deliver Low current amperage for long periods of time, I am talking for days here.  Charging requirements are different for each.  Charge your deep cycle units at the lower charge rate of your battery charger.  Mine will do 12v @ 2A, 12V @ 10A.  Gel cells are used for electronic equipment backup power which I won't discuss here.

[Conrad]

Fridge operation:  If three way (110vac, 12vdc, propane) I would not recommend running it off of the 12vdc battery for very long.  It is a power hog.  Now if the engine is running well then all right!  Engine alternator provides the charging current and voltage for the deep cycle batt via a solenoid that operates when engine is in the run mode.  Mine is mounted on the engine compartment frame, drivers side, above radiator.  If it goes bad make sure you get a "heavy duty" unit.  Thank goodness for ACE hardware   They ususally have what I want, when I want it, and I ususally want it now.  

Battery charging:  I have found that the inverter/charging unit on the rig I own is not adequate to keep the batt up to snuff.  I use an external batt charger once or twice a year to top off the batt. (12V 2amp mode).  I charge it slow for about two days and that seems to work for me.  I find I get more life from my batt that way.

Battery maintennance:  Don't believe in the "maintennance free" battery hype.  There is no such thing.  When you get a new battery, pop off one of the cell covers to see how much acid is in the cell chamber.  This will give you a reference for the future.  A hydrometer is a usefull tool.  It shows specific gravity of the hydrochloric acid.  SG is usually around 1.250 1.275 when new and fully charged.  Charging of the wet cell battery (of which we are discussing) produces heat.  One can hear the fluid gurgling when charging.  The water component of the hydrochloric acid gradually evaporates thus lowering the fluid level in the cell chamber.  When this is evident, add DISTILLED water.  Don't use spring water, tap water or other bottled water.  We don't want to add minirals to the battery cells.  Minirals gunk up the positive and negative plates that make up the cell structure.  Don't allow any debris to fall into the chambers either.

Batteries in general:  Auto batts such as the cranking battery for the engine are designed to deliver high current cranking amperage (CCA) for short periods of time.  Deep cycles are designed to deliver Low current amperage for long periods of time, I am talking for days here.  Charging requirements are different for each.  Charge your deep cycle units at the lower charge rate of your battery charger.  Mine will do 12v @ 2A, 12V @ 10A.  Gel cells are used for electronic equipment backup power which I won't discuss here.

[ExTookItAll]

Thanks Conrad, pleasure to meet another owner!

I'm aware of the solenoid, as the previous owner showed me where it was, and it was a brand new unit (dunno about 'heavy duty').

The deep cycle compartment sure looks small!  :?  I didn't throw a tape across it for exacts yet... I'm in the middle of making new bench seats and backrests for the dining table (it came with neither, so I had to figure out how the measurements work out for it to also convert to a bed).

I'm going to be connected quite a bit to shore power, so it appears just a plain 'ol deep cycle 12v will suffice, and that'll be the next purchase, along with a thorough check of the wiring/charging system. Is there a 'standard' location for the converters in the 24 footers? 'Spose I'll just trace wires until I hit it..  :wink:

Thanks again for the great advice!

- Keith