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Dash guage problem

Started by littlelarge, July 04, 2005, 08:29:31 AM

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littlelarge

Hi All.
I just picked up a 1977 20' 440 Clipper and the dash guages are not working ??? does anyone know where to start ? does anyone have wire scmatics on this motorhome, and the appliances ? any help please.
Thanks littlelarge
LLARGE@peoplepc.com

Conrad

Pull the dash gauge bezel and see if you have a silver rectangular can plugged in the back side.  It is a 5V regulator.  Saw this in previous post somewheres on the site.  Check your ground connections too.  I just had my bezel out and found that the wiper control light and temp control lights were good but just had bad ground connection.

littlelarge

Conrad.
I pulled the gauge pannel out, and yes it was fried.
Would that also have an affect on no break lights ? and no gas gauge ?
Any imput is helpfull.
Thanks Les

Conrad

Brake lights would be just a 12volt circuit, not fed via the 5V regulator.  Is it just the brake lights?  How about the rear turn signals?  Check condition of the sockets at the light housings.  Since the coach is fiberglass a separate ground wire is used for the electron return path to battery.  Could be the sockets are corroded?  If so, try to clean them up using a wire brush for the big hunks and a typewriter eraser for the little buttons that feed the 12v.  Are you old enough to remember what a typewriter is?   :P   The typewriter eraser material is rougher than a standard pencil eraser and will burnish the metal (cleans it off) so that a good contact can be had.  Get some bulb grease too.  I found some at Schucks which is the same as Kragen.  This is a dielectric grease that will help prevent corrosion build up.  Works great wherever an electrical connection is made.

Again, check the ground connection at the fuel sending unit.  The fuel guage is electrically in series with the fuel sending units' variable resistor.  As the fuel level changes so does the resistance.  The resistance change is what makes the fuel guage go up or down.  I reterminated the ground connection on mine, scraped the metal surface bare and drilled the ground into another spot next to original hole.  You can get heat-shrinkable terminals that have a moisture displacement gel in them.  As the plastic shrinks the gel gets pushed out and no more moister can get in.

Hope this helps.