why is the clipper always so hard to start?

[mikeyo]

whether i've been driving, shut off the engine then come back a few minutes later, or i'm starting it after leaving it for a few hours, it always takes 5 seconds or more of cranking the starter to get it going! i'm afraid of ruining the starter! what's up?!

oh, and i had my carb fixed recently, and a tune up done. compression in the cylinders was at around 120. is this good?

i have a lot more power now, but if i floor it, it seems to choke still. it's better than before but still, is this normal?
thanks a million guys.
mike

[Andy Illes]

Sounds like several things.  First, 120 is t the low end but still ok.  More important is comparing readings for all cylinders, they should be close.

If you're having a hot start problem, check for flooding.  If so, you'll have a very strong gas smell removing the air cleaner top a little while after shut-down.

Hesitation when you punch it is usually an acellerator pump linkage adjustment on the carb... could be either too lean or too rich, more likely lean... just move it a hole at a time until it's smooth

Ignition timing that's off can cause both problems too.  Keep in mind that  harmonic balancers as old as ours can have deteriorated rubber, which can allow the outer ring (with the timing mark) to shift.  If your mark's on the flywheel instead... no prob, just recheck the spec.

[Rodney]

Tell us more....
What engine are you running?
What Carb... Is it a thermoquad...
there have been other post to this problem an all have some good ideas as to where to look for the problem.
fuel pump leaking back and not holding fuel in the line and carb.
leaking and loose fuel lines from the tank to the carb.
If you are running the thermo quad carb I would take a very close look at it as your problem. they leak internally and unless you are looking for that particular problem it can be missed.
you need to remove the carb from the engine shortly after running.
don't spill any fuel from the carb or drain it.
set the carb on a flat bench and remove the screws and linkage to remove the float bowl. carefully lift the float bowl from the throttle base. There should be NO fuel on the bottom of the float bowl or base. if there is the bowl is leaking fuel in to the engine. there are 2 caps or plugs right under the main jets which are glued on to the bottom of the bowl. this is where they leaked on my old carb. Very POOR desgin.
this does two things one drains the fuel from the bowel so you have to fill the bowl with fuel after the engine is shut off for a while. And  2  it floods the engine with raw fuel which also makes for a hard start situation.

when starting your engine crank for a short time and stop to let the starter cool down then crank again don't just grinde on the starter for long periods this also gives the battery a change to refresh itself for when you hit the starter again.

[terry and karen conkle]

fuel pumps work or they dont work, yours must work, right. hit the pedal to the halfway and release, then start, strained acceleration sounds like timing advance problem.



                                       tc

[Rodney]

fuel pumps work or they dont work, yours must work, right. hit the pedal to the halfway and release, then start, strained acceleration sounds like timing advance problem.



                                       tc

I wish that were true, but I can't remember how many fuel pumps I have replaced in my days as a Mechanic that would get fuel to the carb just fine but a small pin hole in the diaphragm & leak raw fuel into the crank case without any external signs of leaking an have a driver complain of to much oil in the crank case which in reality was mostly fuel.
Or have the residual valve fail to work and have a bleed back of the fuel an not hold the fuel on the pressure side of the pump when the engine is shut down but pump fuel to the carb. A good pressure gauge will tell you if your pump is working properly after you have the gauge hooked to the fuel line and see that there is a reading of 5- 8 lbs or so after cranking the engine. after that the gauge should hold that pressure for some time if everything is work ok   :wink:

[lmgoodwin]

I have owned three Dodge vehicles. One a Pick up with a 360, one 1976 motor home with a 360 and the present 1979 21ft Clipper with a 440 in it. Only the 1976 MH was new. They all started basicly as you describe. So in my opinion it is a Dodge.

L M Goodwin

[Shayne]

Just a thought and maybe it's not the case with yours.. but my Clipper used to take some cranking to get started.  Especially when cold.  I bought a new starter and that made it 200% better.  The old starter was just weak and tired and just didn't kick the motor over very fast.  The new one turned it fast enough that it would start right up.