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fresh 440 engine

Started by JerryT, January 08, 2019, 04:37:36 PM

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JerryT

pics

JerryT

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JerryT

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JerryT

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JerryT

washing it after

JerryT

Easy as 1-2-3-4--Ha Ha

JerryT

Clipper Joe

Hi Jerry,
You Must Be A Young Guy,
I Was Hoping You Were Going For
A New Diesel Upgrade. I Went Through Pass.
Side Door, Removed Seat, Put Short Block, Built Everything Up From
There. Installed New 4 Core, Super Cool, Large Tanks, Installed Rebuilt A/C
Compressor, All New A/C Hoses & O-Rings Recharged With
R-12 $$$$, New Fan/Clutch,
I Removed Front 1977 Grille, Found A Real Nice One In Wrecking Yard, No Cracks,
Cleaned & Two Tone Paint, Black & Silver.
Then Found Also, New Hood, Installed Hood Scoop,
Re-Did All Front End & Added Stablelizer Helwig, Works Great.
Have About 3,500 Miles On 440 -1 Engine,
Rebuilt, Smog Ready Thermoquad Carb.
Had Put On Eldbrock Carb, Had Smog & Vapor Lock
Problem, Went Back To OEM.
So Much More Power, 850 CFM.

I See You Are Running 1973 Dodge Grille, It Passes Air Well. :-[
Have You Ever Had Vapor Lock Problems?
Do You Feel, By Going In From Bottom, Was Easier
Did It Take Long To Get Front End Off?

You Did Great Job On Your Clipper, Is Fuel Injection Next??

Clipper Joe
1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher

Toedtoes

Quote from: JerryT on January 08, 2019, 04:53:30 PM
Easy as 1-2-3-4--Ha Ha

JerryT

Ah, come on.  That was so easy it was only 1-2...   ;D
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

JerryT

Hi Joe
Thanks for the compliments.

Feel young but getting my first S.S. check this fall. Did diesel research, the size constraints of the engine bay and the time and $ to re-engineer everything was not worth my energy and I would never see a payback of any sort.
The metal grill works well, can't break it. I mitigated my vapor-lock problems when I first got the coach. I took the vapor return line from the canister and made it into a fuel return line via a factory fuel filter that has the "T" fitting on the side. Now I am always keeping fuel moving thru the pump so it can't get a chance to boil. I also did a fresh air to the air cleaner hose from the bottom of the cowl. I added a pair of 3" dryer vent's from the bottom of the front bumper to each side of the doghouse to blow out the trapped hot air, and use a factory 3 core radiator with the factory shroud. I would change the engine the same way again, a little more thought but very easy, nothing heavy, no straining or hoisting. The engine cradle was a piece of cake, four bolts. I had to split the upper ball joints, the brakes stayed with the body as did the steering box. I had to separate the steering arm and unbolt the steering pivot points as well as the shocks, the springs fell out when I raised the body back up. I have done research on F.I. but want to stay simple, i.e. I can repair it on the road. I don't see a payback on the  $ as if have been told a well tuned carb can run leaner while cruising vs the F.I. ability to hold stoichiometric. I do not live in a smog state so I get to play as I want. I used a 440-3 engine from a class A coach. It uses the 5/8 peanut spark plugs that allow an extra water passage next to the plug for cooling. It has a windage tray, double row timing gear, 360 deg. oil grove mains and autothermic pistons.

JerryT
 

JerryT

1-2  Ha Ha Ha---that there is funny

In truth, it was harder to reach up and remove the spring type clamps on the 40 year old heater box hoses than anything else I did. I have no idea how you would do that with all the stuff in place. I am glad I did not have a hose failure and hope that the premium Gates hose I bought (Preventive Maintenance) holds up as well as the factory ones did. I used screw type clamps, pointed it a direction that I think I could actually get a tool on if I ever need to. On the reinstall I had two "spotter" buddies help me align the engine to the trans with a floor jack while I lowered the body down. Once the cradle bolts go back in, then you lift it up and put everything back where it belongs. A/C stays charged, P.S. stays full, automatic stays full except for the cooler lines loose a little. There is a brake line to the right side that is clipped to the cradle, I cut it on both sides of the cradle and added unions so I did have to bleed the right caliper.
All in all it went very well and it gave me a chance to clean, inspect and paint the cradle, whoo hoo.

JerryT