Well I bought a clipper . looking for frame help for towing

[nuggs2590]

Hey everybody,  I just picked up a nice 75 dodge clipper.  Now I'm looking for ideas on bracing up the rear frame for towing.  As of now someone welded a hitch to the light duty rear frame which i don't think will handle to much weight. If anyone has any ideas, pictures,  diagrams, it would be very helpful. Thanks

[Sfine]

Awesome...you're gonna love it.
I have an aftermarket hitch on mine..it has been canter-levered off of the front framework with small steel beams. Then it was bolted. It looks like it would hold since it isn't attached to the body or soft wood floor and framework, but I haven't really tested it. My thought is to take it to a welder and let him improve what's there now.
I have used it for bike racks and such without a rattle, seems tight. But eventually, when California gets rain and the lakes fill up, I'd like to tow a small skiboat. The power is there, the hitch may be the weak link.  I'll try to get a photo to give you an idea.
Let us know how you make out.
Steve
Is your Clipper is good shape?

[nuggs2590]

Yeap, mine is just welded right to the thin metal frame work that comes off the square steel box frame by the leaf springs.  The thin frame is 6" wide with a 1" L that bolts to the floor.  I'm thinking this would only toe maybe 2000lbs. I'm thinking of getting 1/8" thick 6" x 3" with 2" flange on one end to bolt and weld to the square box frame and bolt to the 5hin frame to beef everything up. Hopeing someone else would have some pics of what they did.  My clipper is in pretty good shape.  Interior of camper is perfect and everything works and no leaks. At least as far as the camper goes. The engine needs a carb, and lifters. Also need wiper motor and the dash needs a new circuit board. Another thing I need help with is the power inverter.  When hooked up to shore power everything works and the inverter charges the battery.  But when just on battery only the lights work and doesn't charge even when the engine is on. Need to figure that out.  Need the fridge and ac to work when driving.  Don't want the food to spoil or me while driving.  And neither are hooked to propane.  Not sure why

[Toedtoes]

Your battery is not enough to run the A/C or fridge by itself.  A/C will not be hooked up to propane or 12volt - it will only work on 120volt power.  Fridges may be 1-way (12volt OR propane only), 2-way (120volt & propane), or 3-way (12volt, 120volt & propane).  The 12volt use will run down your house battery VERY quickly so it is not recommended unless you're driving and are recharging the batteries.

In order to run those items and/or use the outlets in your RV, you will have to be running the generator, plugged into shore power OR have a large battery bank to draw from (and be able to recharge that bank on a daily basis for a set amount of time - most people recharge daily for 2-6 hours).

Many people have replaced their 2-way and 3-way fridges for residential fridges (120volt only).  The residential fridges aren't as temperamental about being level, and if the people only stay in full-hookup parks, then they don't see the need to spend the money for a new 2-way/3-way fridge.  It's possible the fridge was switched out for a residential in the past.  If it can run on propane, there should be a knob/switch inside the fridge to switch from electrical to propane.  If you don't find a knob/switch, it is probably electrical only.

At this point, we get to the main question that will help you figure out what to do:  Will you ALWAYS be staying at full-hookup parks?  Or do you plan on dry camping (in campgrounds with no hookups) or boondocking (parking it anywhere you can get away with - Walmart, the boonies, etc.)?

If you will always stay at full hookup parks, then you can probably just use the generator to run the A/C and fridge while you're driving (if you have the built in generator).  As soon as you get to the park, plug in to the shore power and you're good to go.

If you want to dry camp and/or boondock, you'll have more difficult choices:

1.  Get a bigger battery bank and add solar to recharge - how many batteries you will need will depend on how long you want to be out there before having to recharge.  The size of the solar system will determine how quickly you can recharge.  The downside of this is the amount of space the batteries will take up AND the inability to recharge without sunlight.

2.  Get a bigger battery bank and use a generator to recharge.   Again, how many batteries will depend on how long you want to be out there.  If you don't have a built-in generator, you can get one or two Honda 2000i generators (about $1000.00 each) to recharge your batteries.  However, you will have to keep extra gasoline handy to run the generators (the built-in will run from your fuel tank - always make sure you don't use all the fuel or you'll be stuck).  With the two generators, you should be able to run the A/C directly from them.  The downside is that you have to carry enough gasoline to run the generators for the necessary time to recharge the battery bank and/or run the A/C AND the amount of space the batteries will take up AND campground rules that limit the use of generators (often only allowing a couple hours in the morning and again in the evening - most often never overnight).

3.  Use propane to run the fridge (requires replacing the fridge if it is a residential or 1-way fridge) and go without the A/C unless you're at hookups (or have a generator(s) large enough to run it when absolutely needed).

For me, I have a 3-way fridge (only run it on 120volt and propane at this point).  I always plug in a few days before my trip and cool the fridge on 120volt.  Filling the fridge with a couple large bottled waters will help cool it down faster.  Add the food as soon as it is cold (an empty fridge takes more energy to keep cool).  When I'm ready to depart, I just unplug and go.  When I reach my destination, I switch to propane.  If I have frozen foods in the freezer part, I fill the extra space with blue ice packs - they help keep the food frozen.  I can go up to about 5 hours without issue (as long as I'm not opening and closing the fridge during the drive).  When I'm dry camping, I have my water heater lit and running all the time and I run my fridge on propane.  I use my stove and/or oven for at least 2 meals per day.  With all that propane use, I have gone over 20 days without running out of propane.  For my house battery, I have one group 31 Optima Blue Top AGM battery for the house battery.  I use my lights (fluorescent or led) and use the 12v plug under the couch to charge my kindle, cell phone, etc. as needed, and I leave my water pump running the entire time.  I can go 4 days without making a dent in the battery.  I don't like heat, so I tend to camp in the mountains where it's cool, so I don't need to run the A/C.  I don't have a microwave, tv, etc.  When driving, I do the old fashioned A/C - I open the cab windows and have vent covers over the kitchen and bathroom vents so leave those open.  I also have a 12volt fan over the couch to help circulate the air if needed.

[Toedtoes]

Whew!

OK.  On to your question about the house battery charging from your engine battery.  It should charge when the engine is running (off the alternator).  There is a single cable that runs from the house battery to the engine - in most of the clippers it is about a 12gauge wire and not really big enough to handle the charge.  It's possible your wire/connection is bad.

My boss recently re-wired mine (he didn't like the 12gauge at all).  We ran 4gauge all the way through.  He also put a circuit breaker at either end - so that if there is a problem, I won't fry both batteries.  Another modification he's doing is adding a delay circuit and switch - the delay circuit will keep the house battery from being pulled to start the engine (so I don't lose juice unnecessarily); the switch allows me to bypass the delay circuit so I can jumpstart the engine from the house battery if needed.

[Toedtoes]

Original issue.  I believe  Clipper Joe has some info on the hitch, but he might not be checking in here for a while (son getting married).  If you can be patient, I'm sure he can offer help in that area.

[bulldog 1995]

I am currently designing a proper frame extention for these units will put the plans up soon. best way will be to build a sleave that fits inside the factory box frame and streaches from at least 6" in front of the front leaf spring perch and reaches to the rear of the unit. will need tubes welded in for bolting the spring perches back on as well as a slight relocation of the gray water tank. there is a set of plans on here (not sure where) for a lighter duty bracing of the rear area. I'll post the plans for mine soon, but it will require your unit goes to a pro welding shop for install   

[Sfine]

Sounds real similar to how mine was done...someone suggested cross members to stiffen it up,  thought that was smart advise I'd share.