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Plastic fresh water tank

Started by Sfine, November 03, 2013, 11:16:50 AM

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Sfine

I found a slow drip on one of the valves at the bottom of the fresh water tank.  Repairing the leak next to the valve, actually where the valve and tank wall meet is challenging, it appears it had been repaired before, and now failed.
A local shop says they can do a "plastic weld" .  The idea is to eliminate one of the valve penetrations entirely and then "T" off of the remaining one for my drain and supply in one.
Any thoughts anyone?  I thought of doing it myself by cutting the valve off flush and sealing the hole over with another piece of the same plastic with gorilla glue. Is that going to introduce the gorilla glue into my tank? Never heard of plastic welding before, does anyone have any knowledge or experience with plastic welding,....or successfully repairing a plastic tank ?
Thanks
Steve
1979 440 Dodge 21' Bunk      #3766
     Murphys, California

Jax

Steve I've seen it done on some You-Tube videos. You might want to start there & since the leak is close to the valve maybe not a good idea to use G glue, if it fails your back to square one. Go & check out the videos & see if that's something you might want to try or have done. Just a thought.

Brian
1975 Dodge 360 Clipper 21' rear kitchen.
#3771

Sfine

Thanks Brian!
I agree.  The tank is being done by someone who's done it before. I did just as you suggested, even saw DIY kits. I'm pretty handy, but not excited about melting another needless hole, this way it's right. I don't plan on removing the tank ever again. ;D
While I've got the tank out I replaced all fittings and hoses, and the outside contraption that receives fresh water, all new. I plan on doing a rigid insulation upgrade under the tank as well as around it.  Hopefully visit some ski resorts this season!
I'll post how the repair came out.
Steve
1979 440 Dodge 21' Bunk      #3766
     Murphys, California

Jax

Good for you Steve! I hope I never have to pull my tank! It's just like my brake problem I had just got frustrated with it & took it in ended up with new wiring & a couple of relays plus the turn signal switch was replaced in the steering wheel column. Next job {in the spring} is leaf-Springs. So good luck I hope you make it to the ski resorts! Take care,

Brian
1975 Dodge 360 Clipper 21' rear kitchen.
#3771

Clipper Joe

Hi Steve & Brian,

These Are Great Posts, That Really Help Fellow Clipper Owners, With Same Problems,, :-[

With The Age Of These Great Clipper RV's, Plastic & Other Materials Due Have Over Time, Just Wear Out. Like The Switch In Steering Column.

I Have Now Since I Have My House Unit Restored, Have Now Getting To The Dodge Van Side Now, Replacing Old & Worn Stuff On Van Cab, Ie; Door Handles, Gas Pedal, Visor Rubber Ends, Rubber Window Weather Stripping, & Door Weather Stripping, & Replaced Wiper Teflon's, New Wiper Blade, Got Nice Ones,Bosch Icon Work Great. Have Been Finding Mostly Mopar NOS Parts Off 1977 Dodge Vans.

I Know Brian Found & Posted A Web Link For Old Parts,
Here Is A Good Source For Dodge Van NOS Parts:

AMS Obsolete, WWW.mmpar.Com
13459 Fairmound Highway
Fairmound, Georgia 30139
Phone: 706.337.4606
E-MAIL: obsoletemopar@yahoo.com

Hope This Helps,
Joe

1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher

Sfine

I've been insulating our clipper for winter use, as I previously wrote.
I learned a few things more that I thought I'd mention.  The fresh water pump is under the seat along with electrical plug and the electrical cord and access door from the exterior.  In my particular model ( bunk) the waterline runs right along the access door which is not insulated at all. So I covered the pump and wrapped the pipes...which technically kept and cab heat from reaching it. It's a cold area by design,  I decided instead it would be better to allow cab heat to access that area if necessary thru the interior door below the seats . The one line that I insulated in between the tank and pump froze because it didn't get cab heat.!, It was 24 degrees.  Once I removed the insulation, the line thawed and I was back in business,
One other thing I did which seems to help hold the heat was to install rigid insulation board to the undercarriage  of the living space. It was fairly easy and cost about$50. For two 4x8 panels which were attached by self tapping screws and oversized washers. Four large panels and a few smaller odd shaped ones and it was tight. Last night in Tehachapi it was 18 with a windchill of nine degrees..I'm sure that had to help keep us cozy, no freezing water lines, kept the heat at 50 at night.   Still more cold weather ahead at the Grand Canyon and Sedona ...what a test!
Stay warm!
1979 440 Dodge 21' Bunk      #3766
     Murphys, California

Sfine

During our time in Arizona ....we were told of how bad the water is. We saw many of the fancy rigs with reverse osmosis filter systems in the plumbing.  I'm used to drinkable tap water and never thought that the water is only as good as available when on the road .  I certainly didn't see any " purified water " option at any of the dump sites !!s.
These Old Clippers have no filtration system at all, not to mention health, but the plumbing can corrode and fail if left with alkaline or calcium deposits in them. 
I wondered if anyone has installed aftermarket filter system in their Clippers ?!  I thought of installing some sort of inline filter in the sinks..or a side filter just for drinking or cooking. Instead I purchased a filter that attaches to the supply hose before the water enters the holding tank. We still drink bottled water. Wondering what's the way to best ensure safe water in our fresh tanks.
1979 440 Dodge 21' Bunk      #3766
     Murphys, California