Radiator Leak

[prophetdaniel2]

     Maybe I mentioned the serious Radiator leak I developed on my last outing more than four weeks ago, I finally got around to pulling the radiator.
     What a Rats nest!

     Whod-a-thunk it would run so well! As you can see, in order to remove the radiator, One must disassemble nearly the entire front end of the Dodge van version. They sure didn't intend for any human to be able to disassemble this thing. I don't plan to reinstall the radiator in precisely the same way. Will probably change the mounting hardware. I would love to completely re-wire the entire rig!
     So far I figured out that the damage was caused by the spiral shaped spring attached to the water pump/fan hub, falling off and being mashed into the radiator by the still spinning fan hub, before finally being ejected, and lodging itself into the fan cowling for me to find later. Could someone tell me what the spiral spring thing is for? it definitely needs attention, but I don't understand its function.
    Here's a very lousy pic of the damaged area:

    Not particularly bad for a radiator in as good a shape as mine. I tried to locate a Radiator repair specialist here in the Mat-Su Valley, No-go. Talked with some friends and have decided to attempt a repair myself. In three parts:
1: inject silicon sealant into the three affected tubes, (actual idea was epoxy, but I think high temp silicon gasket maker should work)
2: Solder up the holes. Yup, Solder. Dont know if it will work, but its easy enough to try.
3: Pinch off the affected tubes. This was recommended by an Old-Salt, who swore he never had a problem with so minor a repair. This method makes the most sense to me, and I know it wont affect the cooling noticeably. (3 tubes out of 200)

     Also purged a number of A/C parts that have never been used, and GOOD RIDDANCE!

If you want any of these things let me know, I only damaged one of the hoses (now two )
I know you Californians need these types of items, and these seemed to be in good shape. That A/C radiator is also included.

     Additionally, I pulled the dog house and discovered the reason for my Cruise control failure, WooHoo!
simple fix, reconnect the wire that fell off and improve the securing method.
     Removed mouse carcasses from the engine block. YUK! Left over from the great 2007 Easter Mouse Disaster!
     Discovered that the distributor cap was mounted crooked, yep actually CROOKED and ran acceptably! now to be replaced.
    In the process of finding a Cool/Heat control cable (that physically moves the valve in the engine compartment when you slide the lever) mine actually broke. It is a thin gauge and very stout. Bailing wire is not gonna cut it. Though frankly heat in my clipper is not a real concern.

     Now the bad stuff, I have engine oil in my air cleaner. Saturated my air filter. This helps account for the burnt oil smell I get occasionally. BUT its not that bad. I don't know what causes this condition, so lay it on me if you do.

Dasboutit!
Sail on!
-D

[John Eversoll]

Hey PD2, John Here,  I do have a maybe answer for ya on the oil in the carb thing..

MAYBeeeee?? now don't hold me to it..  Is it possible that the oil could have come from

a Air condition leak??? That does have oil in it..

Heck, you are down so low ya might want to do a compression test.
Everything looks good to me from this angle....
Um that wire thing that is on the clutch fan... that has something to do with the tention of the fan blades
in rotaion.. don't remember really what.  But when the fan stops you gona get Hot..

[dboling]

RV Radiators are a total pain and require a lot of work to remove them. I did one that wasn't to bad and don't remember the model.
The Radiator came out through the bottom. But you had to jack the front end up really high to do it.

I'm jealous, you have heater and A/C componets to remove and mine are missing.

[prophetdaniel2]

Once again, Google to the rescue! Found this:

"The fan clutch operation is regulated by a valve that is opened and closed by a thermostatic spring. The valve controls the flow of a viscous silicone fluid between chambers in the clutch assembly. When the engine is cold, the clutch is essentially disengaged, which is why the fan runs at its slowest compared to the engine's speed. As the engine warms up, the air flowing to the fan assembly becomes hotter. The hotter air causes the thermostatic spring to unwind and open the valve. Silicone fluid from the reservoir chamber flows into the main chamber, engaging the clutch, and the fan spins faster (though it's still slightly slower than the engine)."

     So that is the thermostatic spring that fell out. I think Ill replace the fan clutch.

Not likely to be oil from the A/C John, I am sure its engine oil. Besides, I dont think the A/C has had anything in it since 1978! I just wish I could remove the A/C pump as well, but it appears to be holding some of my belts on Maybe there is a tension pulley I could replace it with someday.

[John Eversoll]

Hey there Bro, I checked with a buddy of mine that works at an Auto parts store.  He tells me that Summit racing
Does have a tension pulley !!!!! Don't know how much but thought that you might want to know..
Looking at those pics of the front of the engine compartment makes me want to paint mine while I have the engine out.  Maybe next weekend.!!
Take carePD2.  :)John

[John Eversoll]

HEEEEeeyyyyy PD2, How are you....
I remember when back in the day of nascar when we got a pinch in the radiator one of the guys would mix up some BONDO and just slap it in the radiator.
I would just shake my head and wonser what kind of guys I a,m working with..

Damn, if it didn't work.. Well, that is a quick fix plus a new radiator in the end..

John

[JerryT]

I would look at the pcv and see if it is plugged or routed wrong. It sounds like oil vapor is backing up the hose to your air cleaner just like an old draft tube. Or you have a tired engine and have more blow by than the pcv can draw off and burn. I would vote for #1 first.
JerryT

[JerryT]

You can leave the old a/c compressor in place if you want. I have one on my 70 W200 pickup that I use for an air compressor. Works real good, about 125 psi, have a small air brake tank in line, also have a pressure switch that controls the a/c clutch for on and off. And yes I have air horns but I like the mobile air part best for filling up things. If you want to do it I will give you a couple of pointers.
JerryT

[caninecaravan]

My clipper was always running hot and took it in for repair to Monkeys RV in Manteca. They replaced the radiator with a heavy duty radiator  for $435.00 with a 3 year warranty. Also replaced the fan clutch with a heavy duty model at $81.00. The temp guage has never gotten to the middle even on the hotest day and running uphill or sitting in traffic. Bite the bullet. Remember sooner or later you have to replace everything on the Clipper.

[prophetdaniel2]

Hey folks,
     Went to Church over in Eagle River today and got up with Bessie's previous owner who had some heat shielding to give me. Gave him the low down on the latest radiator fiasco and mentioned oil in the air cleaner.
Turns out that the oil is from the nice Lifetime guaranteed $50 K&N air filter I threw out that requires a special application of oil in order to work to its fullest potential. in the words of Homer Simpson "DOOH!"
     K.C. also mentioned that the Radiator is very new which accounts for its great condition. He also mentioned that he got an extra MPG out of the rig by installing a "Tornado Fuel Saver" which I hadn't mentioned I had to you guys. I cant vouch for its effectiveness, but K.C. is a trustworthy type, who kept meticulous records. ( I didn't catch the part about the fancy air cleaner in time obviously )
     Jerry, I dig the air comp. Idea! Please tell us more!
Live and learn!
-D

[JerryT]

Hi D!
The old Chrysler V style compressor is made just like a engine, it has two small pistons, an oil pump and a crankcase and you keep full just like a lawn mower engine. It has a fill plug that you keep topped off with compressor oil. To use as an air compressor you should filter the "in" side after you remove the "guts" that are in the big hose housing that bolts to the compressor face. You run the small side to your tank/pressure switch which sends 12v to the wire coming from the pulley. If you ever have to remove the electromagnetic clutch/pulley all you do is remove the smaller center bolt and then thread a larger bolt into the hole and it pushes off the clutch assembly. It is best to use a circuit that comes on with the key to feed the pressure switch so you don't end up with a dead battery after the pressure leaks down in the middle of the night and energizes the clutch! Been there done that! I use a simple well pressure switch that I adjust up to my liking. A fast idle will make it pump better. I welded a 1/4 20 nut on my gas pedal. I then use a thumb screw so I can reach down and give it a turn or two for a faster idle from the drivers seat. It is a lot easier than a cable! If you have any questions please ask.
JerryT