Hints & Tips Archive 10/11/2000 - 5/8/2001

[Shayne]

5/8/01
I came across this web site. They have gas tanks, water tanks, holding tanks, weather stripping, siding, compartment doors, ladders, skylights and more.
I'm considering changing my 36gal polyethylene tank in for one of their new 49gal steel tanks ($775) - but have to save my nickels first!
Check them out - they're in Hollister: http://www.all-rite.com
Horst Wolf, ACOC #2961

4/02/01
Roof Maintenance: "Spider Cracks" on roof? I became concerned & wanted to seal them. So, eight years ago, I cleaned my roof with a good cleaner (left A/C (removed shroud) & vents (removed Max Airs) in place, used masking tape & masked around he edge of the roof just next to the curve, then used "Kool Seal Elastromeric Roof Coating", painted it with a 3" brush-one coat, let dry, knifed the edge of masking tape & peeled off tape. Since it is Elastromeric, it will not crack when flexing & has not peeled period!. It is white, but is not visible from the ground. A note on generators-My 77 Clipper had room for a Onan, but I chose to install a Generac, when they were 4.0 KW, Because the size was shorter, installed a divider (lined it & rest of compartment with foil covered Styrofoam) & had room for another battery (or two) & a tool box. It slid right into the compartment without any trouble, runs smooth & quiet too. I have been in the RV & Appliance repair business for 22 Years & can be contacted at: http://www.1clawhammer.com , hope this info helps.
Chuck Fouch, Jr., ACOC #3183

3/28/01
I'm sure the club has found this web site but I thought I'd tell about it: www.rvpartsoutlet.com . You'll love there opening slogan were the place camping world doesn't want you to know about, there right I just bought a new toilet for the clipper and saved $30.00 even with shipping same model and number check them out there in Sunnyvale CA. 
Jim, ACOC #3172
 
3/1/01
Hi, I pulled a smart one. Instead of the expense and remodeling required in the plan, which I was all excited about, and my husband was not, I came up with my own plan, which is inexpensive and works!! We own an Aero air mattress, queen size, which we plugged into a extension and blew up on the bed (dinette and couch) nice and firm and it created a deliciously comfortable bed in no time flat. Wouldn't work for dry camping, unless you were to keep the bed inflated and eat at the picnic table. But when you have hookups or a generator, it works like a dream. There would be plenty of room for a king size mattress. With the firm  inflation there appears to be no problem with spanning that 9 inch space between the  beds. These mattresses deflate in no time also. When we bought our mattress from Sears, it was $129.95 and I'm sure the king size would not be much more. I am really excited about this. A less expensive alternative.
Casey Flanagan #3143

2/28/01
To the list of parts for the Dodge chassis, you might add the following: For Dodge use only, use locking fuel cap - Stant # 11572
Mark, ACOC #1077

2/14/01
REVISED/UPDATED- CLIPPER REPLACEMENT/SPARE PARTS -
These latest revisions and upgrades on this page, Should be directly credited to the technical input, and knowledge of Les & Terri Mika #2813 . as per their communications
[attached] with me , as of 2-11-00 thru 2-14-00 , as follows.

Hi. I'm glad to see that you got the info. I sent it to you because your name as associated with the article in the last newsletter. 

In response to your questions; 

#1. Part # 3780196 is the correct water pump for the motor home 440 and is still available from any C/P/D dealer in the U.S. Please note that the part # is only seven digits long. The part #previosly
being advertised in the Clipper Journal as the Mopar Performance water pump in not a good part # at all in the Chrysler/Mopar parts system. The Mopar Performance water pump is not designed for
motor home use and therefore should not be used in our Clippers. The part # for the automotive water pump is very similar to the m/h pump and should not be confused with it. It is part # 3780127. 

#2. Thermostat #3512998 is the superseded part # from the valve cover sticker on the '75-'78 class A motor homes. I have been using it in all of my pre '79 engines with minimal problems in the Phoenix
heat. 

#3. Part # 4095088 is indeed the red valve cover gasket. Mopar Performance supplies a "race engine" valve cover gasket that is a rubber/cork composition. They seem to last longer but are extremely
hard to clean off the engine parts when replacement is necessary. 

#4. Yes, the 4095786 exhaust manifold gasket has the heat shield built on to it. 

#5. The P5249644 starter is a light weight starter used in high performance engine applications. They work well on high compression engines. The original type of starters are available through the
Mopar Re-Man Parts Program. The part #s are R0171375 and R0171376. I am sitting at home right now so I don't have the books in front of me and can't remember which one is the 1.5 hp high torque
one and which one is the 1.8 hp standard replacement. the 1.8 hp one is a little longer and is more troublesome with headers. I will email you with the correct applications later. 

#6. Yes, this is a 60 amp alternator. I have never heard of a 117 amp alternator produced by Mopar that would work on our rigs. There was a 120 amp unit available in the late '70s but all the brackets
are different. I have a complete set up like this but I haven't tried it out because it doesn't look like it will fit and I don't want to tie my rig up right now. 

#7. Part # 5013780-AA oil filter is the short one. It is a direct supersedence from the 3549957 which all of our rigs came with. Again, please note that the part # is only seven numeric digits with an
alpha suffix. 

. 

NAME Part NUMBER
Thermo-quad carburator- 440-1,3 Calif#TQ-9212S, and TQ9248S Federal/Canada # TQ-92iiS &TQ9247S
Thermo- quad Carburator-360-3[auto trans.] Calif-TQ921OS Federal/Canada #TQ9209S\
The above carburator information is from a 1979 Dodge motor home chassis service manual.
Power steering belts / Fan-- Mopar# BOO13496 Gates# XL7495 / NAPA# XL12683 ETC>
Air conditioner/Alternator Belts--Mopar# B0013581 Napa # XL14733 ETC.
Alternator --60 AMP.[std.] Mopar# R0291186 Price $ 120.00 [without core trade in]
ALTERNATOR OPTIONS??-117 amp, strictly produced by Chrysler Availability, Fit, uncertain.
100 amp Available, Fit uncertain. Part # available soon.
Starter--Mopar #P5249644 Light weight, starter used on high performance, high compression engines.
Mopar [Remanufactured] # RO171375[ Origonal unit] 1.8 hp,[ longer, possable problem with headers]
Mopar[Remanufactured] #RO171376 1.5 hp., Different reduction,more torque..
Water pumps--Mopar # 3780196.[ Correct high volume motor home unit from Chrysler]. Edelbrock-#8814 [victor series]
Valve cover gskts.-- Felpro # VS50145R [ Proven to stand the heat long term]
Exhaust Manifold gskts.--Mopar # 4095786 Felpro # MS90425
Distributor [complete]---Chrysler # 3874887
Distributorcap pkg.[includes rotor]---Mopar# P4286572
Distributor rotor only-- Mopar # 3874401 Bluestreak#CH303X ,
Electronic control unit [ECU]-- Mopar # 04111850
Voltage regulator-----Mopar # 5234625.
Ignition[ballast]Resister---Chrysler # 3874767, Wells # CR105
Ignition Coil---Chrysler Prestolite#2444242/ Mopar # 2495531[Up to 1978]
Fuel pump--- Carter # MS67755.
Thermostat-- [Requires 1 1/2 inch opening]--- MR. Gasket # 4367 [totally works,no question] Mopar # 3512998-Reported to work. [1 1/2 inch opening ??]
Spark plug sets---Autolite#AP86, Bosch # WR9FP ,ETC.
Spark Plug wire sets [Cable PKG.]Mopar # 4339405------Napa # 700159, ETC.
Radiator Hose Upper---Mopar # H0060974, 
Radiator Hose Lower---Mopar# H0060858
Oil filter[ Short RV model]--- Mopar # 5013780-AA
Fuel Filter---Mopar # 2084467
Clipper News Letters, And index---DON'T LEAVE HOME WITH OUT THEM
Dodge service & maintenance manual--------- For your year model chassis.
WORTH WHILE !!-Modification, if you suffer steering belt squeel, or belt slippage.---
Replace your single power steering pulley, with a dual belt pulley[and two belts of course].
Replacement dual pulley is FORD PART # E3UC3DE73CA.
Bob Chaney, ACOC #2626

2/01/01
Most of our clippers sag a little in the rear from one side or the other. Measure from the ground to the top of each fender well opening and record the difference.
I added a 'HELWIG' brand add-a-leaf spring to the right rear and leveled out my clipper perfectly. these springs are infinitely adjustable with a turn of a wrench, and will install in about one hour. These are sold in pairs when bought new, but only one was required on mine. If anyone would like to buy one spring, I have one available for $50 plus freight.
Sincerely, Tom Fridley ACOC# 3016
Response: Tom, you may have created a potentially dangerous situation. By installing the add-a-leaf on only one side, you have changed the spring rate on that side. While your Clipper may sit level, the spring on that side will be noticeably stiffer than the other one. When you get to rough road or dips in the road, your chassis will be off balance causing pitching to one side. I would suggest that you install the other add-a-leaf, just don't crank it so tight that it changes the ride height on that side. This will give you more equal spring rates on both sides.
Shayne Barr, ACOC #3146

1/13/01
UPDATE-The valve cover gasket, Felpro # VS50145R [the one that I know will stand the heat]. turns out to be not forever. After 40,000 miles, and five plus years. the right valve cover gasket in our rig. Started seeping a little oil onto the exhaust manifold. Not a lot, but enough to cause a little obvious oil smoke. Since I have not seen or heard any reports on any thing better. I thought I might as well replace it with the same type gasket. And just figure its a 40,000 mile fix. Who knows. In the life of a twenty two rear old rig, that might be forever. Just for kicks, and giggles. I am experimenting with another idea to relieve the excess manifold heat on the right valve cover. Its a very simple thing any one that can remove the dog house cover, can do. Assuming your rig has the heat shield type manifold gasket, [Felpro #ms90425] or equivalent. Simply paint a build up of a ceramic or porcelain clay [called slip] which you can buy ready to use in ceramic supply stores or thin the clay type product with water to a thick cream consistency. After applying several layers [letting dry some between coats] to about a 1/16 to 1/8th thickness on the exposed upper, shield, portion of the manifold gasket. Let it air dry to the touch, it will turn a light brown, or white, depending on which clay you use. Then run or drive your rig. The clay will bake from the manifold heat to some degree of stone insulator. The density will Depend on how hot you get it. For instance if you climb the Grape vine or some such hill. Heating your exhaust manifold up to a dull red [about 1200 degrees] I think you will create a reasonably permanent, but still porous, there fore insulating, barrier. I will let you know how it works out in the near future. Since I had cleaned my valve cover. I also painted the side of it with the ceramic . It was totally clean and grease free. But it was still a painted surface. So I suspect the ceramic will crack or peel off of it. Like I said , JUST FOR GIGGLES It may work. 
Bob Chaney, ACOC #2626

11/18/00
While at the auto parts swap meet in Pleasanton, CA last weekend I came across a fellow selling wheel simulator caps. The full set of four for Dodge RV 16.5" for $135.00

"Affordable Hub Caps", Upland CA. (909) 932-0062 or E-Mail http://www.wheelsimulators.com 

He claims he sells them to the large RV supply stores we are all familiar with. Worth a look if you like them.
John & Connie van Groos, ACOC #3054

11/12/00
Some good news for Dodge 440 owners with balky, barking, spitting, gas-hogging, and power sucking Carter Quad 4 carburetors. After an extensive search, I found a source for excellent remanufactured Carters at a reasonable price. My Dodge 440 had all the symptoms described above. I just installed my new remanufactured Carter (in about 1.5 hours of labor, with no blood spilled) - the result was remarkable! Great acceleration - no huffing, no puffing - just great smooth power! Source: www.carparts.com . Product: Holly Performance remanufactured. Spec: Carter Thermo-quad Cal. AT Model TQ. P/N 64-2049 (for a 1977) In their on-line catalog look for 1977 Dodge PU 4 x 4 w/ 440 engine. They do also have carbs for 76,78 and up. Price $209 including $17.75 core charge and shipping charge. Two to three week wait.
Doug Lefler, ACOC #3116

11/11/00
My Clipper - 1975 with a Dodge 360. A few months ago my intake manifold went bad. After searching a bit I couldn't find one at a junk yard that looked decent, and my original one was marginal for "machining". So I bit the bullet and switched over to an Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock 4 barrel carb, and an Edelbrock air cleaner. (Previously I had OEM parts, which included a Carter 2 barrel.) After 2,000 miles or so, my mileage has increased from about 8.4 to about 9.3 mpg. It has much more power when I need it, runs better at altitude, runs quieter, and has a wider power band. A very good upgrade so far. Too bad it's not smog legal (technically that is - as a four barrel carb was only offered on the 360 beginning in 1978) But I'll figure out a way to pass smog when I come due again in March, 2002. Happy Clippering!
Horst Wolf, ACOC #2961

10/30/00
Hi, Anyone looking for sewer gate valves or parts call Dupree Products at Tel.:  904-495-9459, they are the original manufacturers and just helped me out with a replacement seal. Also, anyone looking for Budd wheel hubcaps call Leisureland RV in East Grand Forks, Minn. and ask for Amber, she got me a complete set for about $140, sorry I don't have the number in front of me. They really dressed up my Clipper. 
Myles Henney #3092

10/28/00
Tip/Hint: Installing the generator shouldn't be a problem. Does it fit in the compartment? If it doesn't fit through the generator compartment door you have to remove the couch, remove the top of the generator/ battery/ converter compartment (under the couch), carry the generator inside the Clipper, and drop it in there. If it doesn't fit through the Clipper back door, you have to remove the passenger seat in the cab and bring it in through the passenger door. (That's how you take a refrigerator in and out of a Clipper when it needs servicing or replacing). Does the generator have its own (electric) fuel pump? 

Make sure that the heat of the exhaust doesn't cause a fire. Fire is the only calamity for which there is no cure. (Always carry a few fire extinguishers and construction hand gloves to open the engine compartment without burning your hands). Actually, on the last rally I met a person who had installed in the engine and generator compartments of his Clipper a marine fire sprinkler system that goes automatically "on" when there is a fire. It draws the water from the fresh water tank........ We know of a couple of Clippers that burned because the connection of the fuel pump to the carburetor was made of rubber. The rubber had deteriorated over the years and the gasoline leaked on the hot right exhaust manifold.... Very lethal to a Clipper. 
If your Clipper was modified with a different carb (i.e. Edelbrock, Holley etc.) most likely the fuel entry point for the new carb was at a different location. Often, a rubber connection was used to connect the old metal fuel line (or fuel pump) with the new carb. Rubber and gasoline are not a good combination, especially not at that location. Time, heat, gasoline will eat the rubber away and once the rubber dries out and cracks you are one step away from a devastating fire that can in 10 minutes destroy all the good work and money you spent on your Clipper. Check a few times a year for cracks in the fuel line(s) and replace the rubber hose at least once a year with a good quality special gasoline hose. Of course, the same is true for the hose leading to the generator in the generator compartment. One more tip: Line the inside of the generator compartment with a heat/noise shield before you install the generator.....  My Clippers have a piece of asbestos mounted about an inch away from the ceiling of the generator compartment over the exhaust pipe. There is probably something better (than asbestos) available now to do the job.
Paul Devlas, ACOC #2905

10/11/00
Tip: It seems like one of the most common problems we experience is overheating engines. I was a mechanic for 17 years, and have maintained my motorhome since my dad bought it new in '76 (I bought it from him in '85). I don't know if this situation has ever been mentioned before about overheating engines, but I experienced it many years ago, and with some simple maintenance it has never re-occurred. My Clipper is a 75 model (Dodge 360), and has an electronic distributor, which I believe all of them had (regardless of manufacture or engine). Because there are no points to replace, the distributor rarely gets the service it needs. All of the distributors have a mechanical advance system which relies on centrifugal force moving the weights which advances the ignition spark as the engine revs faster. If the central shaft (under the distributor rotor) is not kept lubed, the advance mechanism can seize after the weights move to their maximum position at higher speed, and they won't return to their normal position as you slow. They must return to retard the spark at lower speed, or else it will cause detonation, and severe overheating at lower RPM. 
The solution is simple. Whenever you have the doghouse off the engine, remove the distributor cap and rotor, and spray the center of the shaft under the rotor, and the weights (just spray thru the holes in the sensor plate) with WD-40. If this is done on a yearly basis, you should never have the distributor shaft seize in the advance position, and it should keep this particular problem from ever causing a overheating condition. Another problem that I experienced many times with customers cars is so simple it is embarrassing when it happens to you. Many fan belts will stretch or become loose with use. If they get loose, they will slip on the water pump first because of the resistance or the impeller against the water. This causes the water pump to slow or even stop, therefore
causing an overheating problem.  Please check these two simple problems before having radiators, fan clutches and water pumps serviced. My coach has 88,900 miles on it, and has never had radiator or fan clutch problems. I replaced the water pump when I did a valve job and timing chains at 65,000 miles, and have only two incidents of overheating since NEW, both caused by the above problems.
Ray Morgan, ACOC #3102

[AirerZer]

          Thanks for the Hints and Tips .,It is really handy ,..,It really helps me.,



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