Too many radiators??

[obergset]

This is my first posting of any kind to any kind of forum. Between my father inlaw and myself we have owned this '77 Dodge 440 w/cab air since new. I have struggled hard to keep it running at times - and have pretty much learned to live with some of the problems - although they can be frustrating. Having read many of the Technical bulletins over the years I understand that my problems are not unique to me.
I would love to have my cruise control back, but................. Even more I would love to have the much talked about 'engine overheating' problem solved. I find that my Clipper has 3 cooling radiators stacked in front of each other. Closest to the engine is the 'engine radiator'. Immediately in front is another radiator of equal size - so dense, that I don't see how much air could flow thru to cool the engine radiator. Is this the A/C radiator? In front of this is a much smaller radiator - not as dense, allowing a better air flow thru it.Is this the Transmission cooler?
I don't see how I could ever solve my overheating problem leaving that middle radiator in place. If this is an A/C radiator I would consider doing without cabair - when airtemp goes over 90 degrees my Clipper is basically unusable.
Those of you who have solved your Overheating problems, did you do so leaving these three radiators in place??? - or am I the only one with 3 radiators in my Clipper?
I realize that the technical gurus in this club are probably tired of talking about this problem. However, being a first timer (on this forum), maybe you will offer me some guidance, anyway.

Thanks
Ole B.

[Richard Peterson]

There are a number of things that affect the heat problems with your Clipper.  The number of radiators are not the problem.  You might start with making sure your engine radiator is not clogged to the point of restricting coolant flow.  Remove it and take it to a radiator shop to have it serviced. You may even want to see how big a core they would put in it for you.   The next thing involved is the thermostat.  Make sure it is opening properly.  Again, you have to remove it to check it.  What about the water pump?  Is it working? Is it leaking?   How about the hoses?  Any leaks in these can cause the heat to rise as the pressure is not being maintained.  Finally, the ignition timing can have an effect and you should also check this.  My 77 440 runs pretty cool in Phoenix with the air conditioner on and temps of 100 and more.  I covered all of the above items when restoring this unit and am pretty sure that is why.  I know it sounds like a lot to do but it's a labor of love anyway, isn't it?  Good luck!  

[Robert P. Anderson]

Back to Mel again.
The club sells the right thermostat for the clippers. It has a larger than standard opening that allows more coolant to circulate when needed. You can probably find it locally if you ask for one with a larger opening.

[Robert P. Anderson]

P.S. The opening needs to be 11/2"
Shane gives some part # in the Forum

[Conrad]

Wow, three?  I can visualize the engine radiator and the tranny cooler but the one sandwiched in the middle? hmmmm

I have a 360 21ft unit.  I replaced the three core radiator with a four core unit.  I may have the term "core" wrong but it refers to the vertical tubes that connect the upper resouvoir (sp?) with the lower res.  You an count the cores by removing the radiator cap and taking a close look.  

My rig had a tranny cooler, about 8" x 16", attached to the original 3 core radiator.  It was connected in-line with the radiator.  I removed the tranny cooler (still have it just in case) and have operated with the 4 core unit without any problem for a few years now.  More cores mean more surface area that cools the hot water.  My tranny cooling lines now connect to the lower res of my radiator.  I did not have to re-bend any tranny cooling lines as the previous owner just made the connection to the tranny cooler via rubber hose.   When I dropped in the newer radiator it was obvious where the tranny lines needed to connect.  

I am curious if you have done a visual on the cores of each radiator.  How many in each?  Are they plugged?  You can pretty much tell when they start to plug up due to build up that will close up the cores.

How is the center radiator hooked up?

[obergset]

Thanks for the advice, comments, and good wishes.

I cannot recall this clipper having these overheating problems early in its life (but then again, I can hardly remember anything else from that era either). It is therefore quite possible that over the years we have replaced "high volume" water pumps and thermostats with "inferior" ones. We never knew any better.

I may have misused the term radiator. The front Cooler is for transmission (about 6" by 13") - it has a line going into the bottom of the radiator, another heading back. The middle Cooler is definitely for the cab A/C - no lines going to the radiator, but one going to what I recognize as an A/C Gizmo. This cooler covers the entire radiator, and I cannot help but think it is part of the problem (in which case we should always have had a problem?!). The 'ribbing' is so dense on it I don't see how any air can flow thru it to the radiator behind.

I assume all Clippers with cab air has an A/C cooler that covers the entire radiator? - and still you have no overheating problems?

I took off the radiator cap to count 'core' - and had coolant flowing out of it - I'll get back to counting when I can see the top of the radiator.

Thanks for your interest.
Ole B.

[Rodney]

hi Ole,
you have some good advise here check out all areas mentioned and you should be able to solve the problem.
With my 78 440 clipper I had an over heating problem as well. I replaced the radiator with the 4 core dimpled tube type. the dimples aid in the cooling and was only a few more dollars to do.
you also need to have a good radiator cap which holds the pressure recomended, I don't recall what he lb raitng a good parts store should be able to sell you the correct one.
When I rebuilt my 440 I found the head gaskets were blown and causing the engine coolant to boil over after I shut down the rig after a long hot pull. having the heads machined and new gaskets in place solved that problem. while I had the engine out I decided to NOT install the cab air or any of the components relating to the A/C I feel leaving the A/C pump hoses, condenser { the thing in front of the radiator} off gave for more air curculation around the engine and radiator. Air flow it important in the small quarters where the 440 lives. With the A/C pump off I now have much better access to the top of the engine if I should ever need to service the distributor or thermostat.
good luck and let us know how it goes for you.
Rodney