Intermittant Dead Starter

[candleman]

I have an intermittant dead start, (no cranking when I hit the ignition), on my 76 440 clipper. I traced it to the wire harness under the dash board, as I have a new battery, battery cables, and a starter that has been independantly tested. I also replaced the ignition switch.  

I am about to tear into the wire harness underneath the dash board and on the firewall. If anyone has done this before and has a tip or 2, please let me know.

Thanks

[tomfridley]

candleman- do not forget the neutral safety switch is in that circuit.
try starting your engine when the shifter is in the neutral position.
many times the plastic bushings that support the shift linkage between the
chassis frame and the bracket on the transmission get worn out and do not allow the linkage to move the internal workings in the trans to operate the neutral safety switch.these bushings are still available from the dealer.
you may want to try moving the shifter while turning the key. be sure to keep your foot on the brake pedal while you do this in case there is such a situation to avoid a runaway when it starts.
also, it is not uncommon to have the neutral safety switch on the left side of the trans go bad. i have even seen where a dog has chewed the 3 wires leading to the switch.
this is at least a no cost test.
if the neutral safety switch needs to be replaced, be sure to have a large drain pan underneath, because the switch is below the trans fluid level . you will probably loose about 1-2 quarts of atf.
good luck!

[bigray]

Thanks Tom. I have the same problem and need to investigate mine as well!

[Andy Illes]

Another thing to check, at least on the Dodge Clips ('76).   I had similar issues with 2 separate causes.... one was a one-shot deal, the other happened a couple times.   I don't know what caused the one-shot deal... just no starter after stopping to make a call.  I crawled under, banged the selenoid a few times, then jumpered it, it kicked over... hasn't happened since.  Stuck selenoid?

The other was the short, red, 10ga wire (with the link in it) that goes from the battery hot directly to the large firewall connector right behind the battery (and on to the ammeter).  My battery hold-down was shot, and before I bungeed it, the battery could move enough to pull that wire out of the connector just enough to break the connection... no restart.  That one will also mysteriously drain your battery cuz it feeds alternator output to the battery.  It's not easy to spot immediately cuz of the wire bundle.

And btw... the unplugged/corroded wire/connector one can be intermittent, and also pass just enough current that everything SEEMS to checks out ok with a test light.  It's worthwhile to clean the connector, it's just a spade lug on the wire.  

Fred had a fairly new battery and alternator when I got it, but both looked like they died so I replaced 'em... when all it turned out to be was that stupid connector.  Grrrrrrrrrrr