water pump replacement on the 440

[mikeyo]

hi i have the giant 440 engine and my water pump leaks like mad, so i reckon it's time to replace it. do the radiator and the fan shroud have to come off? is this a long arduous job? i must do it on the side of the street, so any advice would be welcomed! thanks.

[Rodney]

The way I would tackle this job is start draining the coolant then remove the grill don't forget the screws along the bottom or you will break off the tabs on the grill , the top core support which holds the hood latch, remove the neg battery cable, the radiator {the trans cooling lines will need to be removed but be aware that the fitting can turn in the radiator.. you need to hold this fitting while you use your flare wrench on the line} have a catch pan handy for the ATF which will drip out of the lines for ever! and shroud needs to come out for access to the fan bolts. I was able to pull the radiator from the top by removing the drivers side core support baffle and carefully work out the radiator that direction. then remove the fan shroud now you can get to the water pump. I would sure consider replacing the fan clutch if it looks like it is leaking oil, I would also consider a NEW water pump rather than a rebuild one. {a person only wants to do this once} check and replace belts and hoses while you are in there. you might consider checking the theromastat, distributer cap an wires to. I know I may be getting carried away by checking and replacing other parts while in there but this is the time to do some maintaince. I would also flush the radiator with a garden hose and check for signs of any leaking.
an air ratchet is real handy for the radiator and fan shroud bolts. Be careful there is a lot of sharpe edges of metal everywhere under there.
good luck and just take your time on this project, I did it in a half a day a while back but I had the clipper in my shop when I did it.
Rodney

[Andy Illes]

Rodney's got it right.  As an aside though, you can also just let the radiator down to the ground (that sucker's heavy and hard to hang on to!!!) and have plenty of clearance to reach everything.  I'd also add that it's wise to check your pulley alignments with a straight-edge.  Unless you are pretty sure you can do that job quickly, plug the tranny collant lines and radiator fittings for 'em to keep crud out, since you're doing it outside.  Good luck!

[Rodney]

your right andy that should give a guy plenty of room for the job. When I was doing repair I was after getting the radiator out to fix a leak. & while I was at it I replaced the clutch for the fan an it seems to be quitier under the bonnet now. If your radiator is like mine you can leave the bottom bolts in an just loosen them and lift and inch or so and the radiator should silde up and out. this makes it a LOT easier when installing it. be carefull when working that close to the radiator core as they are fragile a slip could poke a hole in it real easy.
Rodney

[Andy Illes]

Naah.. my rad just bolts on.. no slots or anything to hold it ('76 360).   Hadda muscle the sucker up in place to get bolts back in.  With benefit of that hindsight, I'd use a 2x4 lever or something to raise it back in place and hold it to get some bolts started.  I'd also suggest making sure the pump's bottom hose clamp is lined up so you can get at it in the future with the radiator in.

Dunno if the 440s are the same, but the AC compressor on mine's on top, and has a bracket attachment on the rear that has to be unbolted from the intake manifold to be able to move the compressor enough to get at a pump bolt under the comp's front mounting plate.   You HAVE to slip that rear bracket back on it's manifold stud before starting the front bolts.  Otherwise, make sure no small children can hear you...    In retrospect, I'd replace the stud with a bolt to make it easier next time. Also, on mine, there's a short "dog-leg" hose from the top of the pump to the thermostat housing that's behind the AC comp mounting plate, and is a TOTAL bugger to get at, and needs to be wrestled and pried to get back on while trying to juggle the pump back without dislocating the gasket.  Be SURE to use a new one, cuz an old one WILL crack/split/tear putting it back.

Considering the normally impossibly tight quarters, I'd also suggest draining/refilling the PS pump, and replacing the fuel pump while you have easy access.  Another thing.  Since you'll have to disconnect the tranny cooler lines off anyway, it's a good time to change the tranny filter (save $100) and while you're at that, blow a few cans of brake cleaner through the cooler lines and radiator cooler.... lottsa crud collects.  Dunno if the 747's torque converter drains or if you have to pump it out... maybe Rodney knows.

Got a question while I'm thinking about it.  Anybody know how to test the tanny's low-fluid gizzmo on the dipstick?  Mine doesn't work.

[Rodney]

There isn't a by pass hose on the 440 engine from the pump to the intake so that won't be a concern, the heater hoses are on the water pump housing which should be inspected and replaced if questionable.
yes there should be an 1/8 inch pipe plug on the converter if you are going to change the fluid. you should check the bolts to see that they are tight on the water pump housing which bolts to the engine which the pump fits into. I have had them leak between the block and housing and this can look just like a water pump leak. the water pump bolts to the housing with 5- 3/8 bolts an if all is ok with the housing RE no leaks or not rusted out thru the back side all you need to do is replace the pump whick is easy once you get to it. use some gasket sealer on the gasket and a small amount on each bolt before installing them.

Got a question while I'm thinking about it. Anybody know how to test the tanny's low-fluid gizzmo on the dipstick? Mine doesn't work
<not sure what you mean> :?: