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Dodge Timing ?

Started by aliendude, September 14, 2004, 11:35:33 AM

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aliendude

Does anyone know what the correct timing is for a '75 Dodge 360 Ci
2bbl ?    

I have various books, but the original sticker is obliterated on the valve
covers.

Horst

Canada and 49 States - 4 degrees BTDC
California - TDC
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

aliendude

Thanks   :D      

I wonder which one I should set it at?    

It's an A.I.R.  smog pump motor but I have not
been able to get all the parts to put the smog pump
back onto it.  
Somebody took it off long ago.  

I went to the junk yard and got most of the smog pump parts, from
a '79 van.
Except the diverter valve was bad.    I guess it is a GM part.
Strange....it has GM moulded into the diecast metal.  But it's
part number doesn't match anything in the catalog at Checker
Auto.   I can match the pictures pretty close.... except the direction
the hose goes....I'll have to mount the brackets and a pump and
see.....

I guess use the Cal timing?    I read that
retarding the timing helps NOX emissions readings.  

I'm getting closer to taking it for a smog check.  

I had just set the timing to run the best on the drive home
from where I put in the new motor.

Horst

Do you still have to pass smog in AZ with a 75?
I'm smog exempt here in CA now - which has to have some of the strictest smog laws around.

I'd get all the smog stuff you need to pass the visual test - set it at 4BTDC and get it "checked" first (without the data going into the AZ DMV database) and see if you pass. If there are emission problems at idle, etc - knock it back to TDC and see if it passes.

Once it passes - well - then you ready to make it run properly.......some set them at 6 BTDC......ymmv
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

aliendude

I don't know what they will say when I take it for a smog inspection.  

I've got to fix my brake lights. OR somebody will run into me
on the way over there.    

Then make an EGR orifice restrictor
plate ( If you buy a Niehoff replacement EGR vavle it comes with washer disks and you select the correct size hole.  Then a metal gasket holds the disk up into the EGR in a recessed dip.   There was no way In Heck I was going to do that on a new engine it took me 5 days to install.    Like I want a Nickel sized washer falling into my engine.   I have to make a thin plate and sandwich it between two EGR gaskets - then drill out the same size orifice hole.  )  

Right now it has so much EGR that FAST IDLE cracks open the EGR and makes the Choke Butterfly flutter - when I start it.     Still working on
finding a EGR delay module timer box.    Mine just puts 12v there
constantly and won't take away the 12v after 30-90 seconds or whatever it is...

MAYBE all this is overkill.   Maybe I can take it in and they will do a quick
visual,  Idle test it and be done.  

I don't know.   I used to live in Cal.    That's why I'm trying to fix
everything I can afford -so they can't mess with me at a smog test.

Like if I was in Cal I'd need to find a original air cleaner can, OSAC valve, heated air tin, CCEGR radiator temp thing.....

I hated the smog monopoly scam in Cal.  

It' finally got to where I had
a '83 diesel rabbit ( was exempt ) until some Cop pulled me over and invoked personal opinion smog rules.... then since there was no standard for it, I was hosed....  had to put a new engine so I junked it....
I would have had to pull my engine and send it out...

Or the mean look on the DMV clerks face when I registered a '69
Bug.  Nah Nah....

I used to get popped ever registration for a test on my salvage title
'87 Firebird.... that P'd me off.  

They tried and tried to fail my '85 cavalier but I had done work on it.
( They did not like my painted Flick Off timing mark on the crank
pulley very much...... left it hooked up to the machine for so long they
overheated it even with a big shop fan.   They tried three test to get a fail on it.... but nope. )  

Or the time I took my '76 H.D. one ton Scooby Doo project van in, and they told me that since it was private vehicle, I'd have to put all these extra colored hoses on it - that it NEVER EVEN HAD in the first place.  
I guess,
Don't buy a VAN from Yuma County whose second prior owner was a
druggie.  

OR
$30 a test.....or your 'special' and you have to go to the center
and pay $50 to $75


I loved the weather there in CAL and the stores and theme parks....but I just couldn't deal with it anymore.

bigray

You are right, it may be overkill.

When I bought my Clipper and prepared it for inspection, I was concerned about having mud flaps. It's the law here in Texas that all dual wheel vehicles have flaps.

Well I found the local place that inspected RV and spoke to the owner. He said that they overlook that requirement on RV's because with all the overhand a rock doesn't have a chance of being tossed into someone windshield. Trucks on the other hand are required to have the flaps. Period!

Luckily he told me that as I was about to spend hundreds of dollars trying to weld bracket for the flaps.

I said that to say this: you might want to go and chat with the outfit that is doing your smog/inspection.

Just a thought!