Side Walls

[Adrian]

What holds up the side walls? Are the side walls connected to the floor, if so does anyone have a diagram or picture?
Thanks
Adrian

[HPotter]

The black plastic strips along the bottoms of the outside fiberglass panels that look like trim can be removed, and under them you will find a lot of screws which connect the panels to the floor. Each surface,(sides, front, back and roof is a separate molded piece that is connected to those it meets, like the way a fiberglass boat deck is attached to the hull. This type of construction is why the Clippers have lasted so long compared to the ones built in the same time period that used aluminum siding. Irv Perch was way ahead of his time!

Harold, ACOC #886

[lmgoodwin]

Re: Strips with screws underneath the rubber stripe. If these metal stripes have not been removed or at lest the screws checked it is a good idea to do so. I just purchased a 1979 21ft bunkhouse. I found paper work that indicated it has spent some time in Warshington and Oregun. Knowing this I removed the left corner and right corner strips from top (two pieces) bottom. I was glad I did as the screws were rusty and some of the threads were rusted away. Also the putty tape had dried out and in some places fallen out of the grove in the metal strip. Along the bottom of on the inside of the fiberglass the wood had rotted away. I replace the wood which stiffened the two fiberglass joints. I replaced the putty tape in strips (note one side of the strip is thicker where the tape goes). I used all new stainless screws. They are more expensive but I didn't want to do this job all over again. Underneath where I put in the new wood I undercoated it with regualar automotive undercoating. The above is a lot of work but knowing that there is no leaking and rotting going on makes me feel better. When I put the rubber filler strip back in (it was quite stiff from age) I used a hair dryer and warmed it up a little which made it very supple and it went back in the groves fairly easy.

Len acoc *3442

[mollerus]

I had a very similar experience. I had a leak at the triple joint between the roof panel, the side panel and the rear panel just behind the entrance door. I removed the rubber strip from the aluminum trim strip and found several missing screws and lots of silicone sealant (someone had been there before). All the other screws were very rusty. A poor point of construction of our rigs is that they used speed screws (like drywall screws) to join the fiberglass panels to the wood frames. These screws are not coated to be in a damp or wet location. Many of the screws broke off when I tried to remove them, requiring getting them out with screw extractors. Loosening of the screws with drying of the wood, motion of the body, time, rain and snow has probably occurred or is occurring with all our rigs.  Before I replaced the screws I used an old cabinetmakers trick of gluing in a short piece of wood to partially fill the holes so the screw threads hold tighter.  Bamboo shish kabob skewers make a great plug.  I also replaced all the screws with stainless steel wood screws with the heads seated with caulk.  If you have leaks starting at the roof line and coming down the body shell look for this condition as a source and remember water runs a long way inside boats and RVs.

[Adrian]

Thanks for the replies.
However I still have one question, It looks like on the right side there is very little holding up that side wall, especially between the rear wheel and the generator box. Has anyone done anything to strengthen this area? Also it looks like the walls are screwed in to the end grain of the plywood sub-floor; has any one made any cleats to reinforce the wall attachment?
Thanks
Adrian

[mollerus]

I don't know of anyone describing attempts to reinforce the sidewall to floor joint with cleats.  However screws placed into the end grain of plywood isn't as bad as into the end grain of solid soft wood since plywood consists of alternating directional layers so parts of the screw threads are impacting on longitudinal layers and the waterproof glue layers.  An old trick for refastening the wooden planks on old wooden boats is to replace the old screws with one diameter larger and 1/4 -1/2 inch longer screws.  Gluing in plugs and reinserting original size screws like I described in an earlier reply should also work.  I think the side and back walls get most of their support from the screws along the roof line with considerable  additional support from  screws holding the window frames and door frame to the wood body frame.  Whatever you do, continue to use stainless steel screw as replacements.  Good luck on your project.