New Carburetor information - vapor lock question

[Sharon]

We pruchase our beautiful gal (Annie) in July 06 and when checking everything out for on our big vacation my husband (Skip) noted that the carburetor was leaking on the throddle shafts.  After a couple of days of checking local auto stores we found out that it could not be re-built and a new one from Holley would cost $864.00....yes, that is not a typo!!  Skip finally found a salesman at Napa here in Coos Bay OR that knew what he was talking about.  He turned Skip on to a great place to order a re-built 670 Holley with a lifetime guarantee for only $249.00 plus shipping.  Needless to say we ordered it right away.  The salesman who took the order was also going on vacation and somehow forgot to ship the re-built carburetor:(  After the delivery date came and went,  Skip called the company.  They decided (on their own) to fed-ex next day air-which was a Saturday, a brand new carburetor!  They asked  Skip when he placed the order what type of vechiel it was for, they then set it up and tested it so that when it arrived all he had to do was bolt it on and she was ready to roll.  Skip did not even have to adjust the idle speed!  The company is Carburetor Exchange 888-233-2345 or www.Carburetorexchange.com  They are located in Phoenix AZ.  The company (& carburetor) are great.  

The only prolem we had was vapor lock, Annie does NOT like the heat!  We were between Medford and Klamath Falls going over the summitt and she decided to just stop!!! YKES, I was driving and quickly knew I was not strong enough to steer without power.  We were so lucky, I put her into park, jumped out and Skip scooted over.  In the 2 cars behind us several young guys jumped out and pushed Annie up the hill and out of the road!  I couldn't beleive it!  We had to set there for 2 hours for her to cool off.  Skip got her going again and everything went great as long as it was under 85` outside.  

If anyone has some advice on how to keep this vapor lock from happning again, we would love to hear it.  Because it is cool here on the coast we're fine as long as we don't have to travel in the heat but we are hoping to do some valley driving and don't won't to have to drive just at night while it's cool.

Thanks for any advice!

[Richard Peterson]

I had vapor lock at high altitudes and warm days.  Not too suprising when you see how close the fuel line gets to the right exhaust manifold.  I even had installed a new fuel pump when restoring my 77 Dodge RK.  What I finally did was install an electic pump at the tank and then insulated the fuel line all the way to the carburator with a tubular fiberglass product that slips over the line.  I got the pump from Napa for around $70 to &80.  Sorry I can't find the receipt with model no.  I got the Insulating sleeve from J.C. Whitney, part no. 312-25, insulating sleeve 25' natural tan.  To complete the installation, I installed an oil pressure switch in series with the 12 volt positive source to shut off the fuel pump if the the engine dies and is on fire.  This keeps the pump from throwing gas on things.  Hope this helps you.  The vacuum fuel pump is still in series with the electric and creates no problems.  In fact, at city speeds, it keeps plenty of fuel in the carb.  At highway speeds, you just switch on the electric pump and you'll never have another vapor lock.  E-mail me if you need more info.

[Rodney]

Thats good advice to take from Richard.
Which engine comes with the Holley carrb?
more things you might take a look at is the original fuel pump pressure, that its at 5 - 7 lbs. and holds the pressure for some time. Also check locaton of fuel lines that may be to close to any hot spots and relocate if possible in line fuel filters as well. eliminate as much rubber fuel line as possible with steel and if the fuel is accually boiling in the carb you may need to install a composition spacer between the carb and intake.
I run a 440 in my 78 Clipper and have never had a fuel vapor lock and I have been in some of the same conditions you have described I run an Edelbrock Carb on and aluminum intake. I have had and ECU fail like you have described and when things cooled off the rig started right up and off I went. Just another idea to consider.
good luck.
Rodney

[Sharon]

Thanks Richard & Rodney... I'll pass this info onto to Skip:)  Our engine (I think) is a Mopar 440, I really don't know that much about motors.  I do know that there is about a 1' spacer between the manafold and carb if that means anything.  I'll talk to Skip later tonight and let you know if I'm wrong.

[LARRY RAY]

For all RV enthusiast, here is how I cured the dreaded vapor lock. First I took a length of cooper tubing, wrapped it around a 3" pipe and worked the ends around to where I wanted them. I then removed the line at the pump that goes to the carb, attached the line to the copper tubing using fuel hose and clamps. I then routed the other end away from all the heat sources and attached to the the carb. After checking for leaks, I then used a section of rubber from old inner tube for padding and secured the coil to the top of the frame on the paasenger side. There is room for this just behind the grill support. It works great. Also along that same line I installed an electric pump right before the filter on underside of  home along with a pressure reg for my own piece of mind. You never are real sure of the pressure and for myself I fell better knowing I'm not dumping excess fuel into the engine. Hope my small project helps someone out there.