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Oil pan gasket

Started by Tyler Hoodenpyle, April 09, 2006, 08:51:27 PM

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Tyler Hoodenpyle

Hello everyone,  wondering if anybody has ever changed the oil pan gasket on their 440 Clipper.  I noticed a tiny oil spot on the driveway and thought it would be a perfect excuse to remove the pan for a new coat of Chrysler blue on the pan and a fresh gasket.  What an ordeal this has turned into.  I realized after removing all 20 of the bolts that the pan wasn't going to move very far with the rear sump wedged between the engine cross member and the transmission.  No problem I thought, I'll just jack the engine up to clear the cross member.  I got a whole 3/4" before the bellhousing hit the floor.  After 4 hours the transmission is laying in the gravel next to the house and the pan is still caught up.  I guess I have to somehow turn the oil pick-up tube so the pan will clear.  Is this the final step?  Has anyone ever done this repair?  At this point I decided to go through the trans, add a shift improver kit, replace the rotted-out rear rubber mount, since the drive-shaft is out replace the u-joints, add a windage tray to the engine, a drain plug to the trans oil pan and finally replace that oil pan gasket.  I would be interested in hearing any similar stories,  did I miss something or is removing the transmission really the only solution?  Maybe I don't really want to know...
Tyler H:?

Rodney

What a project isn't it Tyler  :wink:
sure hope you arn't jacking the engine up by the dampner??
have you gotten the pan off yet?
I haven't tried to remove the pan on my clipper without the engine removed first so let me know. Not that I would try it.
check those valve cover gaskets to, they can leak and run down the back of the engine block and look just like a pan gasket leak. the valve cover gaskets for a motor home are much more resistent to heat so if you ever do replace them be sure and get the correct ones.
before you install the windage tray open up the small slits on the bottom of the tray a little bit with a flat blade screw driver, I have seen some of the trays new out of the package that the slots a much to tight for proper oil return. you will proabably need longer bolts to fasten the pan 2 gaskets and windage tray to the block. while you have the pan off you might also take a look at the bearings.
Also check the pan bolts a few times for tightness as the 2 gaskets will shrink after heated up.

good luck and keep is posted on your progress.

Tyler Hoodenpyle

Well, the pan is off.  I could of used a cherry picker through the passenger side door but instead I used two floor jacks, one in the front, one in the rear.  I had to alternate about every 3 or 4 pumps to jack the engine up straight.  Had to lift the engine a good 3 inches, even then I used a long pry bar to slightly lift on the pick-up and the pan slid out.  (All of the grease and oil helped!)  I know what you mean about the windage tray, I bought one from Mopar Performance for my 70 Challenger and was surprised with the tiny slots for oil return.  I bought a Milodon tray this time but found out I can't use it unless I install the pick-up tube after the tray is in place.  I am very surprised with how clean the inside of this engine is, no sludge.  I guess it all collected on the outside!
By the way, I was quite tempted to jack up on the damper let me tell you!  I held off though and used the motor mount bosses in the front and the lower engine to bellhousing boss at the rear passenger side.
Now a little elbow grease, a lot of degreaser and some fresh paint should make hanging out under this thing a little more enjoyable! :wink:

skyloop

Hello Tyler, I just could not let you spend the rest of your life wondering if ther was an easy way to get the pan off of your  440. Yes there is I have done it 2 times. I read all the same books talked to every dealer, and many mechanics.They all said it could not be done,Well You can drop the pan with out removing the trans. It does require 8, 6inch bolts. When I was young and working I could do it in about an hour after it was up no stands.Now I,m fat,stiff and don't see well ( OLD) so it takes me about 2hours to half  a day.....Next time just remove the front shocks,loosen motor mounts place 3 inch wood blocks on the motor mounts , place a long bottle jack under the crossmember. Remove the 8cross member bolts and replace them with the 6 inch long bolts ONE at a time. Now let the jack down.As the cross member comes down move so the pan wont hit you on the head as it falls to the ground. Now you know........David /Skyloop#3485  PS don't remove the long bolts, they keep things lined up and act as guides when you rase the cross member back up into possition.