Relief from "DRYNESS"!!!

[HarryClipper]

Yes, Virginia, there is hope!    

Hope for all you Clipper Folks who let 'er sit a spell!  :roll:  

It's called..."MOTORKOTE!!!"   www.motorkote.com

All kidding aside...I found this product one day while at the retail Summit Racing store in Sparks, Nevada.

They had a VCR playing a "demo" of the MOTORKOTE being applied with various types of oils (regular and synthetic).  

I instantly related to the exercise being shown as I had done a similar "demo" in 1984 with a product called "Pro Blend" and demo's the EXACT same way...machine and all!  You CAN NOT fake it!!!

At that time, you may remember Kenny Bernstein, the "Budweiser King" Drag Racer, who used the Pro Blend formulas in his Top Fuel Dragster and then Funny Car.

This product is similar in application and protection... it treats the "metals" and is applied THRU the oils circulation.

I bought some, as did my son.  We both tried it in our own personal vehicles.  His... a 2000 Camaro SS with 75K on the all aluminum LS1 small block Chevy, and mine... a 2001 Firebird Trans Am WS6 with 38K on the same type engine.  We both notice the immediate "quieting" of the engines and smoothness of idles.  (Yes, even a computer controlled car was made quieter!)

I then put it in my girlfriends 1988 Nissan Pathfinder with 200K.  Yes, that's 200,000 miles folks and NO heads off yet!

She went for Mother's Day to her mom's in Clear Lake, CA.  For those of you who know that road (Hwy 20) from the Williams, CA side, it is a variety of climbs, turns, passing, etc. that is NOT very good for getting optimum mileage.  

I must tell you that she is very disaplined about recording her mileage and maintenance figures, that is why I believe what I read after her trip.

That Nissan weighs 4800 pounds with an "underpowered" 3.0 V6 and she picked up on that trip (uphill, turns, "foot in it" and all) a mile and a 1/4 per gallon!

I checked her numbers 3 times.  I could hardly believe my eyes!

Now, understand that I use Mobil 1 and Redline products...ALREADY!  So does she (thanks to me).  But, the increase in performance was made with the "addition" of MOTORKOTE!

No, I do not have a "multi-level marketing plan" to pitch here, nor do I own stock in MOTORKOTE.  I just feel that when you come across something as important as this, it needs to be shared.

And, yes, I have put it in the Clipper.  It IS quieter, and I put it in the "tranny" after I changed oil also.

This product may be the answer to the fact that so many of the Clippers sit, and get repaired and then "sit" again, causing the very problem again that was previously "cured" or "corrected".

Take a look and see what you think.  Summit Racing is where I purchased it.     www.summitracing.com

I now have it in every vehicle I own... and that in itself is far too many!!!
But, I have the same situation as the Clipper's do...they sit!

Hope it works for you!

Harry Clipper

[Rastaman]

Sounds too good to be true...which makes it scary....how long have you been using it?.....everyone wishes for that miricle oil that will make their loved ones last for ever....could this be it....or just another snake oil :?
enquireing minds want to know  
 david

[Horst]

no offense harryclipper - but  - sounds like a new Slick50 to me..........
I'm skeptical - but I'm gonna have a peak at their web site

[Rodney]

A lot of the motor oil additives are pretty amazine. I was at a swap meet a few years ago, there was a guy doing a demo of one of those products.
he had an in line ford 6 cyl. engine running there all day with the oil pan and valve cover remove to show that there wasn't any lubricant in the engine. he would start the engine in the morning with the product in the crank case and drain and remove the covers while the engine was running and let it run all day. it was an amazing demo. My only thought was how long would it run if there was a load put to the crank shaft?
I us different addatives not set on any one but why not if it will prolong the live of my engine and possibly get better MPG and preformane.
When I installed slick 50 in my race car and synthitic oil in the rear end I went a little less than a 1/2 10th faster in the 1/4 mile.
Rodney

[Ruben]

I agree with you Rastaman.
Did some research on the net and found these links:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000486
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/gasave.htm
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/additives.html

[Andy Illes]

Ok.... I've just GOTTA chime in on this one.

Throughout the 80s and early 90s, I owned AutoSport in Hallandale, Fl.  We built and "tuned" more than a few racing engines ranging from Rolls Royce Merlin and Allison V-12s for both Unlimited class airplanes and boats (Tsunami, Miss Budwiser... if they ring a bell), to Ferrari, Lambo and a handfulla Formula and Indy engines... applications where a millionth of an ounce of extra oomph made all the difference in the world.  We experimented with (then nascent) ceramics, exotic bronzes... name it... for a lotta names you'd recognize

Anyone can build a jillion hp engine, it's easy... NOT so easy to build one of 'em that makes it to the finish line.  Mine usually did.  Lot of it came down to lubrication.

So onna the issues we were always looking at was lubrication.  All the "snake oil" folks, as Rastaman correctly put it, called on us... touting their miracle wares.  Mopar 440s are a popular marine engine and we had bunches of 'em around, and I had an easy test for the snake oils that at least passed the "Sounds Good" test.  We'd dump some in onna those 440s.... stick it on the dyno... open the sucker wide open.... go have a few pitchers at Hooters (actually, it was usually the Southport Oyster Bar up in Ft. Lauderdale, but Hooters sounds more interesting).... see what was left when we got back.  Wound up with a lotta interesting shaped 440 parts/engines.

Folks.... you can show me as many "scientific" reports as you want.... as many "Timken" friction tests... as many Ford 6-bangers running without oil pans at the state fair... as many FTC tests... whatever.  But I'm here to tell ya about the bottom line..... the ONLY thing that counts is what ya got left at the finish line.  Finis... finito... Period!!  End of story!!!

And by that measure, nonna the "snake oils" ever did an iota better than most any decent regular motor oil.  Factoid time... remember all the STP Indy cars?  None of 'em ever used STP.

One time at Hooters (Ok... so it mightta been the Southport... big deal), somebody reflected as how pretty much every Tom, Dick and Harry with a fishing boat used "Moly" (molybdenum disulphide) grease in their trailer bearings, which regularly get dunked in salt water.... then happily motor home at 90 mph, usually grossly overloaded.... and back again.... time and time again.... without failure.  

Hmmmmmmmm

J.C. Whitney used to sell a 16oz thing of Moly stuff you could add to engine (or [manual] tranny) oil for something like $3.95.... saw it in onna their fliers... got a few just outta curiosity.  Dumped some in onna those 440s...  headed to Hooters (ok, OK.. Southport... sheesh!!!) got back.... guess what!?  The 440 still looked like a huffin' an' puffin' 440.

Thing is, you can polish a crank journal down to as few a micron finish as you want, and it will STILL look like the Swiss alps under a microscope.  By it's very nature, molybdenum bonds to metal... has a chemical afinity, fills those valleys on both sides of the friction surface.... the sulfur's the lubricant.  Doesn't matter any on cam or crank bearings (except at start-up)... cuz they "float" on a pressurized oil film... but sure DOES matter in the valve guides, cylinders, lifter bores, etc.

Need more?  Check www.Ferrarichat.com..... go to the ads.  I'm selling a tranny that's been sitting in my barn since about '89..... had somma that Moly in it..... there's not a SPECK of rust inside... turns sweet as ever.  Do a search for "Dandy_Don".... he posted pics of the 400 hp 308 dry-sump engine I built up for him year before last.... outta parts I had laying in the same barn since the same time... also, no rust.  Moly.

So do a Google on molybdenum disulphide (MoS2).... make up your own mind.... see if you still wanna spend next year's salary on a 16oz jug of something that might or might not be snake oil.... or 2 beer's worth on some Moly.  Dunno where you get it now, it's not in the Whitney catalogue any more... just bearing grease, which you should also use.

Ummmmm... where the hell's the steps off this soap box??

[Andy Illes]

Forgot to mention....

Onna the things we were always interested in was tightening up valve-to-guide clearances to get good valve-seal quicker (talking literally millionth of a second here).  When we were messing with ceramic valves for the Corvette folks, tried a bunch of exotic sintered bronzes for guides (very hard, but porous to retain oil)... and even more "snake oil" formulations.  Everything'd just gall up & sieze as we tried really close clearances, esp the teflon stuff.  Guess what finally allowed it?

"Hello... J.C. Whitney?   Got any more of that cheap moly stuff?"

[HarryClipper]

I can only tell you this about synthetics and my experiences...

That in 1982, my neighbor (in Victorville, CA) was a Flight Crew Chief for the California Air Guard Fighter Wing Detachment, stationed at George AFB.

He used Amzoil.  I used castrol GTX 20-50W in..EVERYTHING!

I changed oil religiously at 2500 miles.  I used nothing but Fram oil filters (PH8A a BIG filter).

He asked me one day what I thought about "synthetic" oils.  My reply was less than flattering to his ego I am SURE!

He then posed a question to me..."What type of oil do YOU think they use in jet aircraft?"   I had no clue.

He replied..."They use synthetic BECAUSE... regular oil will freeze at high altitude.  Soooo, if they can use it in multi-million dollar aircraft, why can't you use it in your car?"  He had me!  I had no immediate response.

He then went on to offer to change my oil at his expense, and that if I was not happy he would pay to put me back into Castrol.  Again, he had me.  

He mentioned 2 things would happen with the Amzoil test in my vehicle, a 1978 Ford E-150 with a 351 Windsor with 38K.

First I would have to adjust my engine idle speed down as it would "speed up" from the better lubrication.

Second, I would have to wait 30 minutes after shutting vehicle off to check oil level as it took longer for it to "drain back" to oil pan because of its better "spreading" capability and therefore would show "low oil" level if checked immediately.

I agreed to try it, still somewhat skeptical (and down right scared he would blow up my vehicle), but agreed to the offer.

Well, everything he said happened.  I was amazed!

To this day I use synthetics.  I buy a lot of cars...some high mileage, some low, but no matter what the first thing I do is invest in changing the oils.  I have found more rough idle vehicles smoothed out with that alone!

Oh, and in 1995, I worked with a very "anal" salesman who was at a seminar for WIX Filters and he went out and bought 11 different oil filters all the same (and yes, one was a PH8A FRAM like I was still using at that time) and "cut open" every one of them right below the attachment plate.

Well, I now use nothing but WIX (which is NAPA Auto Parts "GOLD" series mfg.'d) because my EYES did not deceive me.  The FRAM was SHIT! :shock:  :idea:   A real cheap poor quality internal part item...NO QUESTION!

My point?  That opinions are like (you know the word :oops: ), and everbody has one!  But, some opinions are based on "experience", not brochures, not because "everyone else is doing it" (ever had kids and heard that one?), or because my friend "John" said it's so, etc., etc.  

Just good old personal experience. :idea:

Somewhere it is said that "experience is our BEST teacher".

I believe it!

[Andy Illes]

Harry.... I didn't mean to put down your thoughts... not at ALL.  Your stuff wasn't even around in "my day".

We found the same thing with our slow turning engines with respect to increased idle speeds after dumping most any of the "snake oils" in.... the Merlins and Allisons.  They tick over at barely 500rpm, always hadda crank 'em back down afterwards.  Couldn't tell with the formula stuff... they barely "idle" at 3-4,000.  Then again, same thing'd happen with, say, 10W20... vs. a straight 50W.

Guess what I was saying is that racing's the ultimate test... when I see it in an engine in front at the finish line.... I'll be a believer.   Or no rust after 15 years in a barn.

[Rodney]

This thread just reminded me when I had my first job at the gas station in '75. A little old lady would come in to fill up her 55 {I think} 4 door Buick with fuel, eveytime I would ask to check the oil she would say it was fine, that she takes care of it herself {she was a widow} and we wouldn't have the kind of oil she uses anyway. She told me she used nothing but Wesson oil from her kitchen!! I am sill wondering?? AWW why not next time I am at Costco I'm going for the 5 gallon pale of cooking oil LOL
:lol:

[Rastaman]

Well I am just as confused as before...even more :?  I have never had a engine failure due to lubrication and usually use castrol...I currently own a couple of pretty high milage veheicles and would just love to know that there is something out there that would prolong their life a little longer...i have used synthetics never noticed any difference,and i have used castrols "high milage" oil in mu 4 runner that uses about a qt per 1500 miles..(i like to think its just lubing the cylinder walls ) with no difference in oil consumption...As I never buy "new" veheicles  or anything close to it, I have always thought that syns. or additives was too little too late.....am I wrong here... especially with my clipper...it shows 65k might be 265k for all I know, but she sounds nice a quite and I would dearly love to give her all the luv and protection she deserves...bless her heart :cry:
Can anyone out there tell me...FOR SURE...that this_______stuff will provide what I seek,and that I am not spending $ that could be applied to a much better cause...such as my favorite cocktail
Rasta...

[Rodney]

I have taken this conversation up with my machinist several years ago.
Ron has years of experience in the belly of  Navy ships wrenching on the engines. he now is our only machinist in our small town. his answer was very simple. it is the presence of lubrication that the number one concern.
My late father in law believed in Quaker state oil and believed it would save an oil burning engine and stop the consumption!! I have never tested his theory. he swar by QS
With my limited experience with all of the different additive that are out there you might think of them as vitamin pills... IF you feel better after taking them then do it.
I have my doubts to the great claims of the additives and I would guess everyone is going to have a different spin on the results.
If an engine has some internal failure going on inside whether it be warn rings bad valve guides or loose bearings no amount of fix you pour in it will take care of the problem until the engine is taken apart and fixed correctly.
The main reason I used the slick 50 in my race car was that it was given to me or I would probably not have used it.
Rodney

[Conrad]

My turn... I have  the same feeling as Rastaman on changing out to synthetic.  Is it too late?  My thoughts were that one would use synthetics when the engine is new.

Also, I lost the link to a great web site on oil filters.  What I got out of it was to change from Fram to Wix.  If I find it again I will post it.

[Andy Illes]

Got a chuckle outta your little old lady Rodney.  But know what?  All WW I aircraft engines, and going on quite a while, used plain 'ol castor oil, and the tbo's (time between overhaul) on those things was pretty amazing for the day.  Dunno why, but they don't do well with modern oils... still gotta use the castor oil in those.  

LeRhone rotaries are a good example.  In those, the crankshaft's attached to the airframe, and the cylinders spin with the prop.  The Rhinebeck Aerodrome up in NY has several planes with those, and cooked lottsa the large rear bearings using modern oil.... back to castor.  A wrench there told me same thing with the Liberty's... still gotta have castor oil.  You'd think that stuff'd gum up, but apparently works fine.  Dunno about using it in more modern engines.  Heard of running diesels on (free) used cooking oil for fuel... closest thing.  Must smell like French fries going down the road, huh?  lol

But maybe she wasn't all that goofy after all, huh?  I'd guess her veggie oil'd be pretty darned close to castor.

[Rodney]

At the time I thought the lady was nuts but I have learned over the years that anything is possible and them little old ladys {and men} need to be listened to, most of them have forgotten more than I will  ever know.
Them old Aircraft engines are simply amazing.
Rodney