I spent a couple of days repairing wires to my Coach battery.
Mine doesn't use the charging relay. Whoever had it just
had a battery isolator. I repaired a bunch of corroded wire twists and
and other wires in this circuit. I got charging power at the coach
battery now. Is this oK? I can 30A FUSE the wire back to the coach
battery.
Were the charging ralays a way to do this before an aftermarket Isolater
was developed....?
Or will I go out tomorrow to a dead batteries if there is a coach current drain?
My coach AMP guage the guy had in it was smoked.........( the Power studs went thru the MOUNTING BRACKET with stupid rubber isolaters.....Or should I say FRIED old rubber isolators... )
:roll:
A-Dude.... that relay by the radiator (which connects the coach battery to the engine's alternator circuit) energizes with the ignition switch. If you "direct wire" the coach battery to the engine battery (without some disconnect) yeah... you do risk finding everything dead in the morning, cuz if you're running stuff in the coach, it would draw from the engine battery too.
Hapy New Year.... Andy
Even with an "solid state" isolator?
The relay has a large guage wire that goes down to a power terminal
stud.....but nothing else....humm....
The relay should have 3 wires - 2 large ones... one from the engine battery positive... the other going back to the coach battery circuit (BTW, be SURE to check every single inch of that sucker and tie it outta the way and insulate any possible chafing points... it's a really stupid routing, and if it shorts.... you're in trouble!) The 3d one's a small wire coming from any "hot with ignition on" circuit to energize the relay. That way, the coach battery is connected to the engine's charging circuit when the engine's running, but can't draw down the engine battery when it's not.
However you do it, the idea is that the coach circuit shouldn't be able to draw from the engine battery when the engine's not running. If a "solid state isolator" does that.... no prob (I don't know, never had one).