I am considering sealing the entire roof of my clipper with this stuff:
http://www.durabakcompany.com
(in white of course)
The reason being that the previous owner installed roof rails around the perimeter of the roof and it has been sealed with some type of plumbers putty. It is not actively leaking, but It is UGLY!
I will post some pics of its current state as soon as my camera batteries recharge.
A search of the forum yielded no specific results on this type of operation, so if you have any experience or suggestions give a shout.
Also on the roof , over the cab area there appears to have been painted some large numbers. They are quite faded but I think it was "177" does anyone have any idea why numbers would have been painted here?
-D
Here are some reference pics as promised:
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o238/prophetdaniel2/random/IMGP3802.jpg)
plumbers putty? slathered on, seems to trap dirt and grime.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o238/prophetdaniel2/random/IMGP3800.jpg)
see that every roof feature is sealed with plumbers putty.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o238/prophetdaniel2/random/IMGP3801.jpg)
now that I look at the numbers they look like 122- not 177 :) any ideas?
Cheers- Ye scurvy sea dogs!
Daniel
I can tell you what I learned and did to my Clipper. The roof of our Clippers is a rectangular one piece fiberglass cake pan turned upside down. The top overlaps the lower fiberglass by 1 inch i.e. the top is on the outside and the side fiberglass is on the inside and that aluminum trim has screws under the filler strip thru both. I sealed my trim but I didn't have to, but it does keep it cleaner as the dirt washes off. The only way for the roof to leak is at any hole or cut. I painted my top (and whole rig) with car paint for uv hold out and for looks, but that glass is pretty thick and would not wear out anytime soon. I removed all old caulk and re-caulked with an rv product called Dicor. It stays flexible and self levels a bit. It also peels off good when it is time to re-do it. I use NO silicon, too hard to clean off and does not seal very well to it self, can't paint it, nothing sticks to it, PITA, ect. I took off my roof rack and filled all the holes with white 3M 5200 before I painted as I was not going to use it. The big picture is if you are going for looks maybe you can clean and polish what you have and then re-seal the fans ect. To clean good enough to get paint to stick may be clean enough to make you happy with the looks.
JerryT
So the racks are original equipment? I don't remember why I thought mine was aftermarket.
Ill look into the Dicor, but I am not actually concerned with looks nor am in interested in trying to remove the old goop, except to say that the previous job of sealing does not inspire me with confidence, so I figured I could one up it and provide some traction at the same time. The stuff I am am considering is a pickup bed liner that can also be used in boats etc. I plan to simply clean, mask, and coat the roof.
Pilotdiana is looking into what the painters of her rig put on her roof, for me, so I'll hold off until I hear from her.
-D
My roof rack did not look like yours, yours is a better/tougher looking one.
JerryT
I wouldn't bother removing the old butyl tape unless you have leaks. I pressure wash my roof each spring and then re coat all protrusions with a white elastomeric coating. I have a different style roof rack as well- wish it was never installed. Same with the roof ladder and crank antena.
dave
Can you actually walk on the roof of the Clipper? Is it strong enough?
This is a very good question, is the roof of the Clipper safe enough to walk on!!??
I have damage to the emerg. Hatch frame "wood" due to leakage
I have to replace the section of over head sheet in the bunk area so I will find out hou bad the frame is.
I noticed the last time I was on the roof it just didn't seem sturdy.
What due you think Jerry....
John
I spent quite a while on top of my rig when I was installing the solar panels. I weigh in the neighbor hood of 250 lb. I was very careful to try and step on the cross members and to not do any sharp turns.
The area starting with the slant from the front down to the level area in the back should not be stepped on. You will crease the fiberglass if you do.
Just occured to me that you could lay a 2" x 6" across from edge to edge to help distribute your weight when up there as well - just to be safe.
Thanks guys!!