Advise on removing rusty screws

[bigray]

Hi All,

I removed the screw covers on my Clipper and quite a few of the gazillion screws are rusty and broken. I'd like to replace them.

I was able to remove 5 or 6 of them; however, they are so rusty that screwdriver would not do the job. I tried drilling a small hole in order to use a tap to remove the screws. This only created frustration as I broke two drill bits. The bits were not heavy duty as they came with some sets that I have.

Anyone have any advice or tools to remove rusty screws.

[Horst]

My tips - use at your own risk -  this works quite often for me.

First - each screw gets a good shot of WD-40 - and it then sits for an hour or two. Then it gets another quick shot, and gets wiped down to inspect the integrity of the Phillips head.
If it looks OK - I insert a driver that is a good fit, and making sure it's straight on and deep in the grooves - and then give it a good smack (not too hard!) with a hammer. Then, while applying solid pressing force, gently break the screw loose - you MUST be pushing down on the screw (straight) at the same time you are turning it counter-clockwise.

If the screw head is toast - then I use a small sharp wedge and a hammer to "make" a screw head - or - I'll try and grab it with pliers/vice grips.

Be sure to cram a wooden match stick or two (Ohio Blue Yip) in the hole before inserting the new screw - gives it extra bite.

Good luck.

[Horst]

that's Ohio Blue Tip - and obviously  - do NOT insert the match head!
:lol:

[bigray]

Thanks Horst. I did everything that you suggested except for the wd/40. I'll have to try it. My guess is that this process is going to take quite sometime. I'm overdue for a camping trip so I'm inclined to replace the one I removed successfully with new screws.  And put the screw covering back on and seal the top with a bead of silicone.

I might to have to postpone removing all the screws until later.

[Shayne]

As long as you're taking the time to replace screws, replace them with stainless steel screws so you don't have to do it again in ANOTHER 25 years  :mrgreen:

I have replaced most of the visible screws on my rig with SS, I started to do the ones under the cover strips and they were proving to be very fragile, so I stopped before I broke them all off    I'll get to it some day...

[Conrad]

I agree with Shayne.  I used stainles steel screws and went a size larger.   I think I used #10 size pan-head phillips screws of the same length as the  #8's that I pulled out.  I also used a polyurethane caulk under the aluminum strip as a sealer.  I had re-sealed all my windows using this same caulk.

[bigray]

Thanks Gents!

[Andy Illes]

I'm assuming everyone that's looked at this post has seen the one I posted on the same subject, but just in case.....

Yup, the WD-40 idea's good, and if the screw-head is trashed, a Dremmel tool with one of those thin, "fiber" cutting disks can make a screw driver slot in a second.  If the head breaks.... many do.... run a new one next to it.   The match idea is a good oldie, or if you have a Chinese restaraunt around, try chopsticks.... they're a harder wood.

I've had decades of experience with ss screws/hardware on my boats.  Though I agree they're great, after snapping more than a few running them in, I can say they're not very strong.  I really have gotten to like the new, coated decking screws.  They're available in practically any size, hardened/tempered steel like drywall screws, only with a thicker shaft, and the coatings on 'em are amazing.... and they're a LOT cheaper than ss.  Also, like drywall screws, you don't have to drill a pilot hole for 'em.  Home Depot (etc.) item.  I've pulled some chine screws out of my boat after 5 years in salt water, just to see.... no corrosion, at all!!