News:

This website's purpose is to share information with clipper owners and others who are interested in clippers or have old Dodge B300 chassis motorhomes.  In an attempt to share as much information as possible to as many people as possible PLEASE first post your questions in one of the forum boards rather than sending a PM to the webmaster or another member. This will allow other members to find information that may help solve their problem.  By PMing your questions, you decrease forum activity and create more work for active members who end up repeating information to individuals looking for the same information.  Thank you.

Main Menu

Roof/Seam Leak?

Started by JeffM, November 09, 2009, 07:54:14 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

JeffM

I have a rear kitchen/bath 76 Clipper. I have been struggling to find a rain water leak in the ceiling above the rear coach door (passenger side). I have methodically sealed everything on the roof. I recently noticed the way rain water drains off that corner of the roof down the rear corner of the coach and wondered whether the leak is on that side along the strip of aluminum just above the rear coach door. Has anyone dealt with rain water leaks in this area?
Jeff Milligan
ACCOC #3632
milligan50@msn.com

John Eversoll

Hi Jeff, I had a leak some years ago and found it to be under the air conditioner it ran down to the rear door.....  Wasn't happy but I had it fixed.  Jerry T is one you could ask, Hang on for a second"

HEY-----  JERRY YOU THERE????   ----  JERRY!!!!!!!!   HORST, How about you?????

Jeff, Just hang on  Jerry or Horst should be reading this so they might give you a holler.

Hope ya find the darn leak!!!

                   John  :)

JerryT

Hi Jeff
I have been chasing a few leaks in my 78 also, so lets see if we can figure out where your problem is. I think for a leak to be in the ceiling the water has to enter high up. In the area over the door you have the fridge vent, a roof fan, and your roof rack/ladder. I don't think the roof/wall seam is suspect as it is lower and the roof shell overlaps the wall. The aluminum and trim hides the screws that go thru all three and into the wood framing just above the door top. The side marker lights are also a bit lower and rear oriented. Logic would make me look at the fridge vent first as the roof is sloped to drain off the back and any leak would have to enter above the door or just forward of that area. I have the original fridge vent in mine, it is made of metal and it has never leaked, and seems to be of good quality. I removed the roof rack on mine as the ladder was long gone and it looked like about 20+ places to leak, hard to seal, and a poorly executed improvement. This may also be your source of water as it has screw holes in the roof by the door too. The roof fan in mine had leaked before I bought it but it had an obvious stain creeping out from the fan garnish, but may be worthy of a closer inspection for you as it is right there, big, with many screws into the roof. I was lucky that no one had used any silicone on my rig before I bought it, as I was taught never to use it as it is a one time only fix, i.e. silicone won't stick to silicone and nothing else will either. I was taught to use a product called Dicor for all my roof needs, I cleaned off all the old sealants and re-caulked/sealed everything and I am dry on top. What have you done so far? What does your gut tell you is leaking?
JerryT
 

JeffM

I used Dicor self leveling sealer on the roof. I will check around the refrig vent again. I have chased this for some time. Since I need to make some repairs in the ceiling above the door from past water leaks there (before I got the Clipper), I think I will remove the damaged part of the ceiling, take a flashlight, put water on the roof, and locate the water leak visually.
Jeff Milligan
ACCOC #3632
milligan50@msn.com

JerryT

Hi Jeff
I am planning on repairing/replacing my ceiling in the kitchen/bath area this winter as both fans had leaked. If you have any thoughts or ideas please share them as I don't quite know what I am going to do just yet. I have saved this repair for last as I hate the thought of this job :-\  I am going to put my new carpet down when I finish with the ceiling and touching up and polying the walls.
JerryT

John Eversoll

Come on Jer,  just take the wall panneling off and go to home depo and get the unfinished sheets they are about1/8th inch  thick... Can't remember the name of them right now...  But they stain real well.  That's what my daughter and I are doing..  Those old panels were just in to sad of condition to be seen by anybody.!
We are using light golden oak.  Then am following with a Poly Clear Gloss.
Figure that it should look real nice when finished.  Later Dude!!    Oh  I hope you didn't mind me Yelling for ya the other day to Help Jeff. wasn't really sure if you'd hear me... LOL   John :)

Horst

Hi Jeff,
When you say "methodically sealed" - what does that mean?
Did you totally remove the air vent above the kitchen/rear door, clean all the surfaces, put down putty, blah, blah.....

I have done a few "seal" jobs that didn't work myself, and had to start over and redo them. I would suspect the rear kitchen vent, or the fridge vent first. Then check the AC vent (check the rear corners).

Another consideration is, when it rains, how is your rig parked? Level? or tilted to one side or the other, or tilted front or back??

You may also want to consider my poor-man's roof water removal system - works great, costs less than $10 - I posted it here somewhere a few months back - it has helped keep water off my roof, which REALLY helps in preventing leaks - pooling/standing water is the worst - it WILL eventually find a way into a Clipper.
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

hastm


Hi:
This is an excerpt from an article in the ACOC newsletter regarding a tech session held at the ACOC outing in San Andreas, CA this fall.
Roof sealing was also discussed. It is imperative that the areas to be sealed are thoroughly cleaned prior to sealing. The flow type sealant found at most RV stores works the best. The side marker lights can be problems also. A thin layer of RTV sealant works for them. The windows can also leak. There are replacement rubber seals available in the clip JR. and for minor leaks, sealant can be purchased at most auto stores. Our ageing units are very susceptible to leaks so don?t cut corners in this area. Also keep in mind that it is not much fun sealing the roof but no fun at all if it?s raining.
Regards.. Mike Hastings Clipper #787
87

John Eversoll

     Thanks Mike!!!!!

          John E