I haven't traveled long distances in my clipper, so I can't answer specifically to that.

However, I can say that regardless of the RV you buy, you WILL have maintenance costs and work.  Every RV will need tires, batteries, etc.  Every RV will need regular re-sealing.  Every RV will need repair work done.

The main difference is WHEN you put in the work and money.

First, if you are looking for a fiberglass egg trailer (casita, escape, oliver, etc), they are hard to find used.  New, they will run you between $25,000 to $45,000 depending on model and options.  If you do find used, they will be fairly high priced in comparison to other brands.

If you need to buy a tow vehicle, you're looking at another $30,000+ (depending on used vs new).

So right off the bat, the trailer will run you $25,000-$75,000.  Compared to $5,000 - 10,000 max for a clipper.

With the trailer, you will have new batteries, new tires, etc., so you will not have any standard maintenance expenses for the first 3-5 years.

With the clipper, you may need to replace batteries and tires right away.  That's between $80 - $300 for batteries depending on what you get, and about $1,200 - $1,400 for all 7 tires.

Regarding tires, the general consensus is to replace trailer tires every 5-7 years and motorhome tires every 7-10 years.  By default, RVs sit for long periods of time and the tire rubber deteriorates - they may look good, have all their tread, etc, but once you start driving, the heat of the road, etc, causes the tires to split.  And a blown tire on an RV can cause a ton of expensive damage to water tanks, etc.

With the clipper, you may need to put work into the engine, etc.  I spent about $8,000 to have my engine rebuilt and the new 4br carb installed - that was about 2016.  In hindsight, I wish I had simply rebuilt the engine when I first got the clipper - it would have eliminated a lot of little minor issues.

With the clipper, you will want to replace rubber first thing - fuel lines, belts, hoses, etc, if it has not been done by the current owner.  A few bucks doing that now will save a lot of headache later on. 

If appliances don't work, you can spend $100 - $1,000 repairing or replacing any one of them.  A new fridge would be most expensive at $1,000 or more.  It is also a hassle installing.  A new water heater will run $600 or so installed.  However, if cared for, they don't often break down.  So if you make sure they are working properly before buying, they will likely be fine.  IF any seller of ANY RV won't let you test each appliance, you can safely assume it does not work - no matter their reason.

However, a 5-10 year old trailer will have the same odds of an appliance not working as a 42-48 year old clipper. So, you only escape that chance by buying new.

Engine wise, the trailer beats out the clipper.  However, if you have to buy a tow vehicle, you will still have that second engine to maintain - although it will be newer.  You will also have four more tires to maintain - and if the tow vehicle is only used for towing, you will want to follow the same replacement schedule as with a motorhome.

Both will cost for personalization.  The clipper interior may not be as new, but let's face it RV interiors are ugly and you WILL put money into curtains, etc.

After 5 years, both the trailer and the clipper will require the same level of standard maintenance for the house.  Repairs to the house can be handled by the same shops and will cost the same.  Replacing a fridge in a trailer will be the same as replacing a fridge in the clipper, etc.

Engine/chassis-wise, the clipper will be more difficult to find a repair shop, and a mechanic who can work on the old engines, than a tow vehicle will.  This can be minimized if you are familiar with and comfortable doing your own work.  For me, this has been my biggest challenge as I am not into doing auto work. 

However, I will say that during a trip to the Rockies, my boss' Mercedes sprinter broke down.  Rather than take it to a shop, he texted me and had me locate the part. He then ordered it and had it delivered and did the repair himself.  So, if you are going to do your own repairs regardless, this is less of a negative on the clipper.

Hi Joe,
Remember, If The Electric Pump Has To Meter Fuel To Carb.
So You Have To Have A Gas Flow Meter, Remember The While Switch Is On,
Fuel Is Still Flowing, Chance Of Engine Fires.

Have You Thought Of Using Header Wrap On Passenger Lower Header.
That Helps.
My Ex Father In Law Had A Class A He Added A Electric Fuel Pump, Have To Work Out Right Fuel PSI
And Proper Regulator.
You Get Right Fuel Ratio, It Should Work For You.

Just Get The Heat Out Of Engine Bay Area, I Found That My Hood Scoop Did A Good Job,
Also Flip Your Air Cleaner Cover Over To Allow More Air Flo Into Carb.
Try That.

Good Luck,
Clipper Joe

I really like the American Clipper.  I am not an owner - but want to be one!!  However, after diving head first into research, making contacts, seeing one locally (ship wreck...) and planning a trip to see another one... my wife lowers the BOOM....
Her fear is that I will get a 45 year old motorhome and it won't be dependable, kill me with maintenance costs and just be another project for us/me to do....
My question for the group is - does anyone actively use their Clipper for long (more than 500 mile) trips?  I would love to hear. 
My goal is to have a rig that will make the trip from Portland Oregon to Dickenson ND at least a couple times a year - with stops in between. 
Any thoughts from the group on a properly maintained (possibly rebuilt) 45 year old RV being reliable enough to make a 2500 mile trip without leaving you stranded? 

Or should I just get a travel trailer like the wife wants?     Thanks!!!

Hi Clipper Joe, nice to hear from you again. I've heard the same thing about these carbs being prone to vapor lock. I'm hoping to keep the carb as my Clipper runs smoothly with no issues and idles like a purring kitten. I never thought about the fuel filter, I'll implement your suggestion. I have aftermarket headers on my Clipper that might be adding to the problem of heating up the filter. I don't remember how close they are to the filter. From what I have read, an electric fuel pump can make a huge difference. I decided to replace the mechanical filter verses remove it when I add the electric fuel pump. I'll add a switch to the electric fuel pump inside the cab that I can flip on when climbing grades or to pump gas to the carburetor when the Clipper has sat a long time. The 440 is such a big engine to be in such a tight configuration. My brother has a 1970 Dodge Challenger with the same engine and when you open the hood you realize how big the engine really is. Thanks again for you help!

Hello SierraJoe,
Glad To Hear From You Again,
Thanks To Toedtoes She Emailed Me About Your Problem.
It Took Me Many Years And A Lot Of Trying,
To Stop The Heating & Vapor Lock Problems.
What Is Vapor Lock, Is We?re the Gas Turns Into A
Vapor. It Is Over Heating.
That Is Why Dodge Went To The Thermoquad
Carb, It Has A Special Plastic Float bowel.
Also, I Found That The Fuel Filter Is On Frame, Under Passenger Door.
I Found It Wound Ge So Hot That It Was Also Close To The Exhaust Pipe.

What I Did To Solve That, Filter Getting Hot.
1.) Installed New Metal Wix Fuel Filter.
2.) Insulated Around Fuel Filter With Wall Installation.
3.) Made A  Galvanize   Cover And Add 2? Solid Installation & Glued to Cover Shield,
Screwed To Frame. This Really Helped.

I Did Install A Hood Scoop & 2 Ea.6? Diameter Holes/ With Screens On Hood.
I Think I Still Have A Template For Scoop, I Got Online. Note: Had to Modify To Fit Dodge Hood. 

One Last Thing Joe, I Had That Problem When I Had The After Market Carb, Eldebrock  Carb,
Go To OEM Carb,
I Still Have A Few Carbs & Ca SmogApproved Carb  Eldebrock . At Home, Have Sold My Clipper.


One Thing My Diesel Pusher Monaco Does Not Vapor Lock, Cummins
Motor.

Hope This Helps You,
Clipper Joe

Great to here!  And thanks for following up - it helps the next guy.

Yeah, the 440s are just too big for the engine space to be able to cool down easily.  As most folks better insulate the doghouse so they don't get burned, that will also prevent the engine heat from dispersing.

I'll ask Clipper Joe to check this thread and offer more guidance for you.

Another post about vapor lock. I fixed the overheating problems, but I?m still held hostage by vapor lock. I was only able to go out once last year because of the fires in the Tahoe area where I live, but the one time I did get out vapor lock struck again. My Clipper has the Dodge 440, dual headers, and a fairly new Elderbrock Performer Q-Jet Carburetor (model 1905). The Clipper runs fine, but the campground I like is off a steep climb up in the mountains. If the engine is running around 210 degrees on a hot day in the mid 90s and I slow down the engine rpm such as to pull into the camping area, the Clipper will die and not start again till I let it cool down and spray starting fuel into the carb as pumping the gas pedal will not get gas to the carb.  I know this was probably a problem in the past with my Clipper as there are several cans of starter fluid in the cabinet. The carburetor already has a composition spacer block installed between the carb and the engine cylinder head. I am going to add a new mechanical fuel pump and install an electric fuel pump next to the gas tank that will have a switch in the cab to flip on when needed. I am ordering the parts to install and hope to get out later in the month once the snow is gone.  If this works, great, if not I going to try adding a hood scoop like Clipper Joe recommended to get more air into the engine compartment.

Follow up on the squealing, I just needed to tighten the belt tension a little more and the noise went completely away.

I tried texting for details.  thanks