Hello! I'm excited to be here! I just bought a 1978 Dodge American Clipper, 440 in it, etc.. I'm sure you're all familiar with it and probably even have the same one I do :D !
So anyway, it has a new carburetor, new fuel pump and new ignition switch, runs perfect it seems.
It has 90,906 miles on it, and I was wondering about getting to 100k and up... what are the expectations for the motor at that mileage? I am 28 years old and this is the first RV I've ever owned and driven. Its the second vehicle I own, besides my Jeep, and its the oldest. My Jeep is a 2000 and has 150k+ miles on it and is fine and is expected to last long, so I'm not sure about these older motors/vehicles.
Again, would like to know what to expect and if theres anyone with these RV's that are well over 100k I would love to know as well, thank you everyone in advance!
Hello Satorizero,
Welcome To ACOC, We also have a Dodge 440-3
1977 Clipper, Ours Has 136,500 miles on the coach I Rebuilt Engine & Transmission 727 Torq.
Old Owner real Drove it hard.
I feel if you change oil about each 3,000 miles, & make sure you don't Over heat it you should enjoy many more miles, what State do you live in?
I also installed new upgraded A/C System & a 4 Core xtra heavy duty Rad. Installed Big Rig Truck, High Temp. Heater Hoses, Silicone Blue they are Life Time.
One last Note you mention you installed a new Carb, What Type? & What type of Fuel Line did you attach to It? This is Very Imortant..
Feel free to reply, may have more infor.
Regards,
Joe & Denise
Hi Clipper Joe, thanks for responding :). Sorry for the late response, have been working on the RV a lot, trying to get it livable :).
I tried to find any documentation on the Carb but I cant, it was installed before I purchased it. Is there any way to see what it is on it maybe? And about the fuel line I have no clue, Ill attach a couple pics and maybe you can tell me where I should look and maybe anything else you see :)
So Im glad to hear you have over 137k on it... BUT you said you rebuilt the engine and tranny! lol. I dont THINK mine has anything rebuilt but I can ask the guy who sold it to me. If yours is rebuilt and mine isnt then it wouldnt be a good comparison yes?
Thanks for your help and anyone else's :)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095455_zpsef93cbc8.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095505_zps393ac586.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095520_zpsc5419f3e.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095649_zps2b0f7349.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095619_zps8d0e0c05.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095611_zps631938c0.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095629_zps80d362de.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095639_zps31ebc979.jpg)
And what is this attachment for on the top of the carb cover?
I have a hose coming off the vaccum that someone routed to the dashboard! Is that whats supposed to go here?
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_101942_zps17aacb23.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_101950_zps00cf927b.jpg)
The fitting on the air cleaner loooks to me to be from an old Edelbrock Vari-jection system. This was designed to add a water/alcohol vapor to the air intake stream. The idea originated with WWII aircraft. It added power and raised the octane of the fuel/air mixture.
Hi Satorizero,
The photos are very clear, I think photo #8 show me what I was talking about, you have a small rubber fuel line connected to Carb, you have a Carter Thermo Quad, most Clipper & Mopar owners have said These Carbs work the best on big block 440-3.if they are set right,
Since I rebuilt my 440 motor & trans torqueflight 727, I went with the replacement Edelbrock 1905 Performer. Have not really taken any long distance trip, so I have not check mileage.
I know it's probably under 10 mpg, Kennel said his 360 got over 10 mpg.
I will know so getting ready for a long fishing trip with buddy of mine,
Hoping to get most of the bugs out. I have had my Clipper ( Wilson ) since 2003, have been working mostly in last 6 Months, since I am now Semi-retired.
Getting back to Fuel line, I was told by a Old retired Dodge Mech.
That there is so much heat within Doghouse cover, that fuel rubber hoses can crack & leak & may catch engine on fire. Note not trying to alarm you and fellow Clipper owners, just have the fuel line checked. I will try & snap a few photos of my steel line hook-up.
The fuel line from gas tank I think is 5/16" & Carb inlet takes 3/8" so I added a coupler from 3/8" to 5/16".. Hope this makes since. If you send me a PM with you e-mail or phone # I can explain a little better.
Regards,
Joe & Denise
Getting back to Fuel line, I was told by a Old retired Dodge Mech.
That there is so much heat within Doghouse cover, that fuel rubber hoses can crack & leak & may catch engine on fire. Note not trying to alarm you and fellow Clipper owners, just have the fuel line checked. I will try & snap a few photos of my steel line hook-up.
The fuel line from gas tank I think is 5/16" & Carb inlet takes 3/8" so I added a coupler from 3/8" to 5/16".. Hope this makes since. If you send me a PM with you e-mail or phone # I can explain a little better.
Regards,
Joe & Denise
[/quote]
That is a big problem with the big block Clippers and other Dodge MH's. I got rid of the stock exhaust manifolds(which happened to be cracked) and put on a set of Hedman headers. Then I put on a long heat resistant sheath similar to the one race guys put over their spark plug boots. Both of these really improved on the heat issue and any vapor lock issue or gas line heating up issue. I also LOVE the Thermo quad carbs, to me they are a much better carb than the Edelbrocks. You just have to find a guy who knows how to rebuild the right and tweek them. Since I have done these mods I have had 2 years of NO problems(I know I just Jinxed myself).
Mark
Hi Mark,
Great reply.. 8)
What type mileage do you get with Thermquad?
I have Read in Forum between 6-11 mpg
Do You notice what you get out of headers besides less heat in Doghouse, Which is very important!!!
*********************************************************************************
Do you have Data on the Headers, Also did you have them ceramic coated inside & outside or did you Wrap them with that super high temp. Stuff?
Are you running a crossover pipe or what size tail pipes & Mufflers?
Is it possible to get a few Photos?
Thanks,
Joe & Denise
1977 Dodge Clipper Rear kitchen 440ci
Hey Joe,
I used the Hedman Elite series header #79820, they are ceramic coated and fit nicely. Don't use the header wrap, it holds in moisture and rusts them out. I will try to get some pics for you. I did not change my mufflers yet, I was planning on that soon. My mileage is at 8 and I know this to be on the money, since I ran out of gas 2 years ago (gas gauge not working) on our first long trip. I thought I had the big 50 gal. tank...uhm NO, I have the 36 gal. tank. My wife wasn't too thrilled with me at the time. I have since fixed gauge (actually it was the float). My Clipper has 111k on it, I don't know if it's a newer engine or not, she runs great. I did put a tranny in it when I bought it. I rescued this Clipper!
* Then I put on a long heat resistant sheath similar to the one race guys put over their spark plug boots. *
When I posted this I forgot to say I put the sheath over the fuel line that runs up along the side of the engine and close to the stock exhaust. It just helps to keep fuel cooler.
Mark
100,000 miles is nothing to these rigs, the drivetrain should last well past 200,000
the Dodge 440-3 is a industrial version of the 440. which means it will easily see in exess of 200,000 miles with regular servicing. the 727 torque-flight Trans is the weak link. as long as you service it properly (change its filter and flush every 20-30,000 miles per the owners manual) it will last 200-250,000 miles
Hi guys, sorry for my late late response, been trying to deal with rv stuff and what not.
So to ClipperJoe: What type of oil does this thing need? I got some Pennzoil High Mileage 10W-30 for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee and some filter (idk what brand) from O Reilly and the lady said I could use the same oil...?
And about the fuel line, is it that 2-3 inch little thick hose on the mid left side of this pic http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095639_zps31ebc979.jpg (http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095639_zps31ebc979.jpg)? Or this pic at the bottom http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095611_zps631938c0.jpg (http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/satorizero/440/20130603_095611_zps631938c0.jpg) ? If so then what type of hose do I replace it with? Thanks again for your help. (We can reply on here for others as well, or I can pm you/call you if you want if its easier, lemme know)
Thanks retrorob for the fitting info.
@WallyDawg I should probably get that heat shield for the plug wires as well then... and is the fuel line youre talking about the same one me and ClipperJoe are talking about?
@bulldog 1995 Ok great man, thanks... I was worried I bought somethin' that would break down sooner than Id want :P
p.s. what type of fuel does this thing use? I pumped it full of regular unleaded when I bought it, never thought twice if it needed Diesel or leaded or anything else :o
Thanks again for all your replies guys/ looking forward to hear more from ya
this looks like a fuel line
(http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/images/0016/44/64/16294446_large.jpg)
the other is a vac line.
as for the oil I run 10-30 in the summer and 10-40 in the winter as its a little thinner and easier for the oil pump to move when it get's cold out. if you live in the southern half of the US you can run 10-30 year round. I also put Lucus Oil Staibilizer in every oil change, it eliminates dry starts after the engine has been sitting for a while
Awesome bulldog thanks for the quick reply, you guys ate great :D
Yea so im in southern cali... So 10w-30 and heat wraps it is! oh and how many quarts does it need? Thank you thank you
Hello Satorizero,
I Use Castrol GTX Syn-Blend SAE 10w-30wt, I Have 1977 Dodge 440-3 V-8 it takes 6 Qts. Oil With Filter.I Always Buy 1 Qt. To Keep As A Spare If Needed, My Engine Has Less Than 700 Miles On It.
I Use Mobil 1 Oil Filter # M1-204 Filter. I Change Oil If Hard Driving each $3,000 - 5,000 Miles. Check Oil Each Trip, & Before Returning Home From Trips. Also Note: Some Oil Mfg. Recommend Changing Engine Oil Each Year Due To Excess Water Contaminates.
I Thing It Is Mostly A Selling Point To Use High Mileage Oils, Or Winter / Summer Grades Ie 10/40 Summer & 10/30 Winter, You Live In So. Calif. You Could Use 20/50 If You Feel Like It.
I Think Most Older Big Block Mopar Owners Use Sae 10/30 Wt.
Getting To Fuel Line, It Is With The Excess Heat In Doghouse Engine Compartment The Heat Rots & Cracks Fuel Line, That Makes It Leak, Hence Bad Engine Fire :-[ Just Install A New Fuel Injection Hose. Each Year Or Inspect When Any Signs Of Wear/ Cracking Is Noted.
My Fuel Tubing Line Is Piped To Carb. No Rubber Fuel Line, Only Under Clipper At Fuel Filter By Tank.
Since Fuel Cost A Lot Now, Most Owners Use Lower - to Med Grades 87-89 I Use 91 Prem. New Rebuild Engine, Will Let Valves Seat In & Brake In Then May Put A Lower Grade, I Try Find Cheapest Station, Costco, Safeway Gas etc.
Can Any Other Clipper Owner Respond On Gas Grades, I Know on My Dodge Fleetwood 1973 Tioga RV 360 V-8 I Used Reg 87 Octane. I Think It Is If You Have The Extra Money You Can Spare.
There Is Some Posts From A Older Clipper Owner, Who Sadly Passed On, His Name Was Bob From Up North, Try & Read Old Posts There Is A Vast Amount Of Old Info On This Forum. He Was A Great Clipper Owner & I Talked To Him In 2002 When I Bought Our Clipper & Was Very Helpful..
If You Need Some More Info Please PM Me Or Leave Me Your Phone # I Can Call & Share Info.
Joe
As the motor runs the pistons wear on the cylinder walls as they rock on their wrist pins. Creating an oval bore instead of the round one they where built with. This happens regardless of what oil you use.
The high mileage oils have additives that helps fill the groves and gaps created. thereby increasing engine compression and reducing blow-by. Lucus Oil Stabilizer does the same thing with an added bonus, it bonds with the engines metal parts and stays there without draining back into the oil pan like the normal oil does.
I've been building engines for over 30 years, owned and operated a 17 bay repair shop, and have 3 pro-stock modified national championships to my name.
I remember a customer that had us rebuild the motor in his MGB for him. We always used Lucus assembly lube when we rebuilt motors along with the oil stabilizer in all oil changes. about 2 mths after he picked the car up, he calls me to set up a time to rebuild the motor again! Turns out his wife had the car out and when she went over some railroad tracks, she ripped off the oil pan and then drove the car 15 miles home WITH NO OIL IN THE ENGINE! I'm expecting to completely rebuild the motor. we opened it up and found NO INTERNAL DAMAGE TO THE MOTOR! we replaced the oil pump and pan, re-installed the motor, and returned the car to the customer. that was 15 years ago and as far as I know the car is still on the road with that same build of the motor.
You should change the oil in your Clipper every 3 months or 3000 miles whatever comes first. these motors were designed and built using 10w30 oil and that is what should go into them. NEVER USE 50W OIL! It's for high-reving/high compression motors and is much to thin for these old units and will eventually result in engine failure!
@ClipperJoe Ok great, thanks for the information, will continue with what Im doin then :)
@bulldog 1995 Thanks bulldog. So, ok, no 'need' for high mileage oil but adding that Lucas Oil Stabilizer seems to be a better idea over all. I love your background, definitely trust your input. That was such a crazy story, my gf heard my outspoken comments and was like "what babe!?" I said oh nothin' just reading this post (lol). Ill definitely consider the Lucas then in this case :P. So I think this engine takes the same 6 qrts my Jeep does then. Great guys, <3! Ill update as I go... redoing bathroom at the moment (will make posts about it).
Update thoughts:
#1 I found some 20w-50 in here from the previous owner.. hope to god he didn't use it.
#2 I shouldve thought about this before... but umm...
is there a "1" before the "90910" on my odometer...!??
I have always run 20-50 Castrol.
Many friends with older (70s) big blocks in their big trucks or MHs run 20-50.
My mechanic, who builds race cars and motorcycles, etc., and owns a towing company as well as a repair shop, told me to run 20-50, unless I'm in cold weather, then 10-40, or 10-30 if it's really cold.
I'm no expert, but I've read a lot about which oil is best for 70s Dodge big blocks.
My 360 works VERY hard hauling around my 10,500+ lb Clipper..........I'll stick to 20-50.
Now Im torn between bulldog's "never use 50w" and him only using 10w/30
or Horst's "Always 20/50"... :(
You have a 360 Horst, does that matter in this equation? (even though you have looked into things)
Wth do I use?? lol... and would it be perfectly fine to switch from 10/30 to 20/50 every oil change?
And isnt 50w heavier, not thinner? (and for summer not winter?)
p.s. (I live in southern Cali, where its like 65 degrees all year long, but may be going to Washington)
Hello Satorizero,
I know you seem to Wonder What is The Right Oil?
I Hope you will See What I Mean, It is a lot Easier To Speak on The Phone or In Person.
You stated you Found A Spare qt. Of 20/50wt oil left in Clipper from Past Owner Right?
10 to 1 he has been using that Grade in that clipper right?
You have over 90,000 + miles Correct?
So you will if you keep on using that Grade 20/50wt you will get another 90,000 miles is you change by 3,000 miles or what Manual recommends.
Horst is correct, Bulldog is also correct, these post are each persons experience in use.
Like if your Father owned a Chevy & Had good luck with it, you may Buy one sometime in your lifetime.
I have 5 other cars in my House hold, most of them I use Castrol 20/50 wt reg GTX oil.
The only reason I use in Our Clipper Castrol para/Syn 10w/30wt.
Is because I have a Complete, Rebored 440-3 Engine after I get over 50,000 miles I will Switch to Castrol GTX 20/50wt for Sure.
Hope this helps, I feel that where you live in South Calif.
You will not have Any Problems With the 20/50wt.
Due to warm Conditions. I live on Northern Calif. Sometimes it gets A little cold I'm some winters, But oil in Clipper has never been a Problem....
Remember this Forum, is a starting point for Information & you Will Have Many Difference Answers,
Nothing is written in stone. ;)
Hope this Helps, Good luck
Joe & Denise
Thank you ClipperJoe (and Denise).
I will then use the 20/50 ONLY because I see it MAY have been used before. I dont KNOW if it was used primarily because I didnt know the last owner at all, other than he screwed me over on the pink slip and went through hell at the DMV just to get it (which I did a couple weeks ago), and I didnt know the owner's before that.
I will wait to see what Bulldog says in the mean time, but I am leaning towards 20/50.
Now, quick question. After looking this up a little, it says that these mixed ratio oils are made to cover a spectrum... for instance 20 - 50, so when the weather changes. Otherwise, it seems I could use, for instance, only 40w the whole time if the weather doesnt change (like where I live its only 70 degrees everyday).
So using that logic, it seems that switching from 20-50 to 10-40 would be a minor difference, because im just lowering the ratio numbers.
Now all this is for weather. This does NOT cover what the engine is made to use.
I have been putting 10-30 in my Jeep for 10 years...
So, I want to know if I SHOULD switch to 10-40, just to have a medium compromise between what everyone is saying (which takes into account Bulldog's "never use 50w" claim)? Or would that lower viscosity also damage the engine? OR stick to the 20-50 no matter what because otherwise itlll hurt the engine..?
Thank you guys in advance.
p.s. I would call ClipperJoe but I dont have regular access to a phone, so it is actually faster and easier for me on here :/
Article clipping:
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
I would think this would mean, since the Clipper gets generally pretty hot, its not gonna go over 50 using 20-50, and wont go over 40 using 10-40....
And please check this site for more info:
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27986
And here (says never use thick oil)
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-ram-van/115455-oil-question-20w50-or-30w.html
And here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=173302
(I know these engines arent the same)
Hi Satorizero,
I Went to all your links, Most are saying its a matter of what Works.
There is a lot of debate When it comes to oil.
It is that way with grease for Wheel Bearing, Some like Red Grease while others use only Moly Base Grease. They are all made for OEM standards.
The one thing you want to use is if you have Disc Brakes you want a lube recommend for disc brakes, it is for the heat.
So I feel that Take Where you Live in So. Calif.
You will have no Problems running what Horst Uses in his Clipper.
Castrol GTX 20/50 wt . I get my oil @ Walmart it seems to have the best price, I by it in the 5.5Qt. Jug @ always buy a few 1 Qt. Jugs.
Just Check your oil each Trip & if you pull Large Mountain Trips & Change oil & Filter ea. 3,000 miles.
Your Clipper will be Find. I Read on one Post, The engine does't care what oil you use as long as it's Clean & Full to the level.... >:(
These are Great Coaches.
Ps; I have notice there have been a lot of views & Reply's on this Topic, That is Great...
Joe & Denise
There was another link within one of Satorizero's links: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
He recommends using 0W-XX or 5W-XX oil only. He brings up the idea that the 20W-50 oil is often used to help keep worn gaskets functioning. I've heard that a lot, and I rather agree with Bob that it's better to replace worn gaskets than to use a different weight oil to "cover up" the problem.
I agree that no matter who you'll talk to, you'll get a different answer. I tend to side with the 10W-30 side of things. My Dad always used that (he worked as a Dodge mechanic and salesman and tow truck driver for years), so I figure it is good enough for me.
Just got my clipper back from the shop and looked at the operating manual for the oil recommendation. I have the 75 360. Here is what the manual says:
Above +32F = SAE 30, SAE 40, SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, SAE 10W-50, SAE 20W-40, SAE 20W-50
As low as +10F = SAE 20W-20, SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, SAE 10W-50
As low as 10F = SAE 10W, SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30
Below -10F = SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30, SAE 5W-40
So it looks like 10W-30 and 10W-40 will work for everything but -10F.
What everyone seems to be forgetting here is that the oil recommendations are based on the B-300 VAN.....................not a Clipper.
There is a big difference in how hard the engine is working, particularly when running in hot weather, or pulling hills.
On the other hand, if I was just putting around town all the time, or taking short trips on flat roads and it's not too hot, I probably run 10/30 myself.
But going through the valley in summer, or climbing a grade........I'm sticking to 20/50.
Hello All,
Horst, I Would Second your Post.
This Oil Topic Has Had Many Opinions,
I have Been Through this From The New Age Model A Ford Guys.
I Own a Few 1930-31 A Fords, They Recommend
30wt Non- Detergent oil it's hard to come by, the Way they make oil today that Some additive may hurt the Babbitt Rod & Main Bearings. If you use a Good Brand of Oil & Service it Properly No Problems for Many Many Miles.
I Have To say In Our Clipper since I Have Less Than 700 Miles on it I Use For Now 10w/30 Castrol Syn-Blend Oil.
My Wife Has A 1992 Toyota Camry V-6 With 250,000 + Miles on it & Has always used Castrol GTX 20w/50wt in it. & does not use a drop of oil between oil Changes.
& That is the Fact..... ;D
The Recommended SAE Viscosity Grades Of Oil
From my 1977 Manual from 32deg F to 100deg F
I will try to scan & Post It.(//)
Mopar part # 3419130 is a Engine Oil Supplement,
Do not know if still available from Dodge.
So if you have used a Grade of Oil in Your Clipper & Feel it is What You want.
No one Will Change Your Mine it is all about What it.
Joe
I just asked my boss about this as he is a mechanical engineer and this sort of stuff is his job. ;)
He pretty much confirmed what Bob in the link I posted above states:
You don't have to worry about oil being too thin, but you do need to worry about oil being too thick. If the oil is too thick, it will not get into the areas that need to be lubricated. If the oil is too thin, it will still get into those areas. If you have worn parts in your engine that need the thicker oil to compensate for, then the thicker oil is fine - but you should be replacing those worn parts.
My boss recommends using 10W-40 on my clipper.
It's an interesting discussion and I've learned more about oil because of it.
Hello Toedtoes,
I have Read All of Your Posts, Like many have Said "Oil & Lubes have Many Uses",
I Feel on Your 1975 360 -V-8 Clipper on the Size of your Pistons & Rod, Main Bearing & Oil Pump,
There Will not be a problem Running 10/30 or 10/40 Wt Oil.
It Seems that you have Got Good Service on What You Use Correct?
When You Speak to A Oil Rep. Who Does This For A Living They Will Give You Only What They Recommend For There Products Etc.
When Speaking to a Engineer, They Work With Very Close Tolerance.
Like Horst Has Stated in His Post, it Works For Him He Has Own His Clipper For Many Years Now.
There Was A Other Member Years Ago He was From Up North.
His Name Was Bob Chaney #2626 He Has Past away He was A Major Source of info on American Clippers. His Loss is Really Missed on This Forum. :'(
On the 440-3 V-8 Everything are Larger, Higher output Etc.
I Have a Extra High Output Oil Pump on My Clipper It Runs Between 90-100 PSI Oil Pressure.
Do You Know What Your 360 V-8 Puts Out?
Remember These Comment or Only Meant to Help & Guide RV'ers.
I Post What I Have Used in The Past 45+ Years As a Maintenance For A Major Company.
There are Many Auto or Heavy Truck Mech. Out There Would Like To Hear There Feed Back?
This Topic has Generated a lot of Opinions, that's Great...
Joe & Denise
Joe - I'm not disagreeing with Horst. Just throwing more information out there for folks to consider.
I'm a firm believer in "if it's working for you, then don't change it because of me". ;D
With the weather here in Northern California being a bit weird these days and the temperature going from hot hot hot to almost freezing within a few days, I think the 10w-30 is a bit "safer". I'd rather run the 10w-30 on my hot engine on a hot day than the 20w-50 on my cold engine on a freezing morning. In Southern California, I might not see that as big a deal. I'm not one for switching ratings for the seasons if I don't have to do so. Since I'm more likely to drive to the snow country in the winter than to the desert in summer, the 10w-30 fits my driving choices better.
It does appear that Satorizero is along the coast in Southern California as he mentions the temp is 65 year round. He would probably be OK with either rating. I'd recommend he consider where and when he's traveling. If he's mostly driving over the Grapevine or across the desert in the summer months, then I'd stick with the 20w-50. If he'll be doing his travel in the winter months and/or staying along the coast, I'd consider going with the 10w-30.
Well... I put 20-50 in the RV (and went from 10-30 to 10-40 in my Jeep... runs a little harder it seems)
So idk... I guess if it fails I can blame those who said to use 20-50 ;)
Btw.. I dont drive the RV at all... I may turn it on for 10 minutes once a week or move it a few feet up and down my street but thats it...
(when I get $1,000 for gas Ima drive more, but not for maybe another year til then)
Hi Satorizero,
Did You Replace Oil Filter With The Recommended Short Style? What Brand Do You Use?
I Use To Use Fram Extra Guard But The Last Oil Change I Went & Tried The Mobil One. It Is A little More In Price But Was Told It Has Better Filter Also Has A Better Check Valve System..
You Stated You Start Your Clipper A lot , What Is The Reason? Do You Do It To Keep Batteries Charged?
Sometimes You May Want To Put A Small Amount Of Fuel Stabilizer In Gas Tank, Old Gas Is hard On Any Engine. Also On Our Clipper I Try And Keep About 1/2-3/4 Tank Full. I Have Put Disconnects On All My Batteries, & Try To Put A Moisture Dry Style Container In Clipper On Rear Of Sink During Winter Months. These Clippers A Not Fond Of Water, Make Sure You Have Good Seals On Your Over Head Hatches. Keep A Eye Out For Any Water Leaks During A Heavy Rain Storm, Etc.
Hope This Helps :)
Ps; No Problem On Your Oil Choice, Just Make Sure You Check It, And Keep It Clean, Log Down any Change In Usage, Between Oil Changes 3k Miles Or Once Yearly.
Joe
@ClipperJoe
Hmmm.. I didnt see any recommendations for the oil filter.. Im using a K&N Gold filter (dont know the exact model number but I can look on it if you want)... its larger than the cheap one I put on my Jeep... larger meaning longer..
o-O
I start the RV like once a week because every mechanic I talk to and read about says youre supposed to on any vehicle; they say youre never supposed to let a vehicle sit and for my RV, they say im supposed to run it at LEAST once a week to keep things lubricated and stuff.
Hi Satorizero,
The K&N Filters is Good.
Do you Have Double Power Steering belts on You 1978 440 Clipper?
I have a 1977 440 It Recommend only Short Filter, Do To May Rub Belts.
have You Checked Space Between Belts & Filter?
I Know that Some Mech. Have Said if you Don't run it may Dry up Seals in Carb.& Gaskets.
I would think if you run weekly it may load up Valves with Carbon Deposits after a short run.
Does any others in Clipper Nation have a post on This?
Now if you go for a Short Run Monthly Maybe 5 Miles & Hit Freeway to Open up a little.
That Would Be Better.
Have you Seen Police Cars on Freeway after running in town at low speeds, they open the patrol car sometimes..
Joe
Whether you need to start the engine each week is up to interpretation. Some folks say it must be done, others say it can sit for a year with no problem. What is important is that if you're going to start it, you need to let it reach full operating temperature. 10 minutes isn't going to do that.
My Dodge mechanic family members say to take it out for a 30+ minute drive including highway every 2 weeks to 2 months (depending on the individual vehicle's behavior at start up*). This gets the engine moving, eliminates carbon build up, charges up the battery, and gets the oil fully warmed up to operating temperature so it can coat everything properly (remember the information about oil weights). You can also make sure that everything else is in working order - brakes, steering, etc.
*Depending on the shape/ability of the engine, battery, etc., one vehicle may need to be started every 2 weeks or it won't turn over easily, another vehicle may be fine sitting for a couple months.
Hi Toedtoes,
Thats Well Explained, ;D
I Had To Make A Trip To So. Cal, Hope I Can Return In Time For National Meet On 10-25
I Have Called Wagon Master Before I Left For Trip, Wanted To Know If You Can Pay @ Gold Strike,
I Know Reg Form Stated You Had To Have It In By 10/18/2013 I Just Don't Know If I Will Be Back.
Does Anyone Know If You Can Pay On First Day?
Thanks & Keep Posts Coming :)
Joe & Denise
Thanks! Sometimes I actually do remember what I'm taught. ;D
I would think it's OK. From what I've heard, the club has the "group" location so we'll be by ourselves. My guess is that there will be enough spaces to account for a last moment attendee. But, hopefully the wagonmaster will respond to you and give you a definite response.
Hope we'll see you at the rally.
Ok, I'm going to throw my 2 cents in here about oil. Most people dont realize the the crank doesn't actually ride on the bearing it rides on a layer of oil between the bearings and crank(and rods) surface. The more wear on the bearing from higher miles, wear on the oil pump so its not as efficient and heat all play into the equation. I have run 20-50 in many of my higher mile big blocks with good results. The theory that "thicker" oil wont get to where it's needed is definitely not one I subscribe to. Bottom line for me....high miles and lots of heat run thicker oil.
I am including a link on oil theory here. It technical but sheds light on the topic here.
http://www.fordfe.info/Forum/Oil.html
A few more comments on this topic, which will never have an "answer":
1) Oil filter? - Wix.....enough said.
2) Another benefit of "thicker" oil is in "start-up" wear & tear. Cold starting is when a LOT of "wear" happens to engine components.......thicker oil stays on those parts longer in between start-ups.
3) The "tolerances" of our old big blocks are very forgiving.......thicker oil has no problem getting to where it needs to be. My 1975 (even rebuilt) Dodge isn't anything remotely like a modern truck/van with respect to tolerances.
The above is my opinion only, your mileage may vary.......
Quote from: Horst on October 19, 2013, 06:48:29 PM
A few more comments on this topic, which will never have an "answer":
I think you can ask 10 race car drivers, 10 engineers, 10 mechanics, 10 taxi drivers, etc. and you won't find any pattern as to their answers. I guess it's like asking "which is better Dodge or Chevy" (of course, we all know it's Dodge ;) )
Thank you guys.
Ill stick to 20-50w
And ill start driving more than just idling for 10 minutes. Glad to know