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Coleman furnace

Started by cdall, September 02, 2002, 08:52:00 AM

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cdall

Recently camped first time with 1979 "Clip". Were pleasantly surprised to find the Refrig (Original) worked both ways, Water heater (Original worked) Bathroom sink and Shower worked, Kitchen faucet leaked like a sive,(already ordered gaskets from ACOC - if they ever get here!) Air worked, toilet worked(although black tank full - found out hard way).  Would it be too much to think that the Coleman furnace still works? This is "Clip" from Washington State and so far being used in 90+ weather in Florida. Anybody out there that still has a functioning Coleman Heater? Don't want to use space heater on side of sink. Planning to use "Clip" in winter weather (but in more temperate climes) after storing "79 Irwin Citation sailboat somewhere up north around Lake Ontario in early fall after cruising up spring and summer from Florida.

Charlie

I recently bought a 79' Clipper and found that the Coleman furnace wouldn't work.  I removed it from the coach, took it apart and found the electric fan motor was the problem.  Took it apart, cleaned it up, replaced the brushes.  Cleaned the burner unit, put it back together, installed it and works great.  One caution, make sure you run the fan for several minutes before you try to light the pilot, if you don't it might backfire when lighting and cause damage.  Also, after you light the pilot and turn the knob to on, you must put the access door back on to use it or it will flame out after a couple minutes.

Tom Aber

I bought a '78 Clipper with no furnace. It originaly had the Coleman but it was removed. The outside exhast vent was removed and fiberglassed over and painted. I live in So. Cal. but I go the desert were it freezes at night, so I purchased a brand new suburban heater for about $450 and installed it myself. (I got it from the link on the ACOC home page and saved about $100.) I, of course, had to re-cut the exhast holes so I don't know how well it would have lined up otherwise. I also had to cut a hole in the heater compartment door because the unit that they recommend for a 78 Clip is a direct force. There was a "punch out" in the side for a duct and I fabricated a collection duct and enlarged the duct in the floor to try to get some through the floor ducts. Even though it sounds like a lot of work, it has electronic ignition and is new technology that I will never (hopefully) have to mess with again. Good luck and stay warm!

Richard Peterson

My furnace pilot would not stay on to light the burner and the pilot flame itself was very weak.  I removed the furnace and dis-assembled it.  I used compressed air and carburator cleaner to clean the pilot nozzle and then used the compressed air to blow out the plenum of the furnace.  It was full of gunk, mostly dried mud and when no more was left, I put everything back together.  It works perfectly now and really warms the coach on those cold nights.  The problem with dirt and mud comes from wasps who seem to like the smell of propane.  You can fashion a screen to filter them out on both the intake and exhaust vents which are on the outside of the furnace. Use 1/4" hardware cloth.   To remove the furnace, you need to dis-connect the gas line and also the electric, both of which you can reach through the vent towards the back and by the step.  Then there is one screw in the front of the furnace behind the cover, and one in back holding the vent chrome piece. Good luck!  
Richard Peterson

EKS

There is another way to go which is a vented catalytic heater. The only source I know of is at http://www.omnicast.net/~arnie/products.html. Unlike a regular catalytic heater the `Platinum Cat' has a hood above the catalytic element and an exhaust fan that vents about twice as much air as is produced in waste from the heater. The statistics are the forced air furnace will drain the typical house battery in about 15 hours. The Vented Catalytic heater will go better than a week on the same battery. If I remember right it is also more efficient. We went that way after buying a Clipper where the forced air furnace had been removed. It is also a LOT quieter, thermostat controlled so that it can turn itself off/on,