Cabover vent/escape hatch questions?????

[Panel Pete]

Hello everyone,

  My clippers factory vent/escape hatch over the bunk started leaking recently. After cleaning 5 layers of different sealants (everything from silicone to plumbers putty to fiberglass resin) off of it and inspecting  it is in terrible shape. The plastic frame has failed and cracked at all four corners and at the mounting flange. I'm going to replace it and was considering installing a larger vent - one that has a 15x22 opening instead of the original 13x20 that she left the factory with.  The hole on the roof would have to be enlarged from 14 1/2" x 21 1/2" to 17 1/2" x 24 1/2" - has anyone done this?

  My reasons for possibly increasing the vent size are as follows, 1) while cleaning all the old sealant off of the old vent I found that a few of the factory screws holding the vent in place are no longer doing so, the screws are just loosely sitting in their holes and can be pulled right out by hand, 2) I'd rather use an aluminum framed vent - it seems that all of the manufacturers that make the smaller escape vents make them with plastic frames - I'd like to stay away from the plastic as it rots and becomes brittle/cracks with exposure to the elements, and 3) at 6' 1" trying to get my upper body through that size opening was rather cumbersome - if the hole were a little larger I "think" it would make the task a little less challenging.

  My concerns are in regards to the factory roof frame or "skeleton" - does anyone know how it was laid out? Is their one - if so how many supports were used? The roof over my cabover portion does not sag or bowl in the center however it does move up about an 1" to 1 1/2" when you push up on in while laying in the bunk. Is this normal? The ceiling itself is undamaged and in great shape with no staining or discolorations of any kind.

  Any ideas, thought or comments will be appreciated.     

Thanks in advance,
Pete     

[Clipper Joe]

Hi Pete,
I have replaced mine, I got it on EBay
The one you buy presently I had a little mod. To do,the ones you buy now has a flat Alum frame,
The problem I ran into was lower cover was not high enough, had to add 3" flat Plastic to meet to top of vent. I found new cover @ a old trailer supply house, if you send e-mail address, I can send a few photos. Maybe still have info on where I got the on I have.
What State do you live in. I have my old lower cover. I hate to throw any of Orig. parts out.
Hope this helps...


Joe & Denise

[Panel Pete]

Joe,

Thanks for the response. I sent you a PM.

Pete

[Panel Pete]

Time for an update,

  Seems that I'm out of luck trying to find a complete aluminum framed 14 x 21 escape hatch/vent assembly. The only outfit that still offers a complete assembly in that size is Heng's and it has a plastic frame, which upon closer inspection seems to match the busted up one currently installed on my coach.

  Sooo, now I'm considering stepping up to the next size vent - which is 17 x 24. This appears to be the only way to get one with the aluminum frame as all of the larger escape hatch/vents are made exclusivly of aluminum.

   What I've found while searching the forums and Internet is that our clippers have a wooden infrastructure and the only posting that I came across that gives any clue how the bunk roof was framed was by JerryT found here - http://americanclipperownersclub.com/techforum/index.php?topic=1372.0 .

   Now, does anyone have an idea of the factory framed rough opening? Can the factory framed opening be enlarged to accommodate the larger hatch or will it need to be reworked entirely?  I'd like to know before I start this project as she is parked outside and I'd like to budget my time wisely. I'm looking for any tips,tricks, or suggestions for this project. Heck, any ideas are welcome at this point - I just want to fix this area once and do it right!

   Thanks again,
   Pete

P.S. - JerryT if you're out there reading this would you happen to have any other pictures of the bunk framing after you removed the factory fiberglass roof from your rig? If so, I'd sure appreciate if you could post them.

[kenmel]

looks like the second post in that thread of Jerry's third picture is a picture of the the rough opening of the escape hatch. You maybe able to knock those stock 2x2's out and slide a new  pre assembled 3 sided frame you build in without tearing up the inner and outer roof panel inside to badly and use the original 2x2 nearest you in the pic to be able to tie it all in together. Then just route around the edge of the fiberglass to match the new frame, but it looks like you will have to pull the intreior roof panel down to brace the front of the frame and if so it looks like it would be cake simple unless you can't find a panel to match.

[Clipper Joe]

Hi Ken & Pete,
You can go to YouTube look up Marks Rv Garage,
He Restored a old Trailer I think there was ten different parts.
I got alot of info from them, you can get the paneling 5/32" from Lowes or Home Depot it is not coated or graining. Some Rv supply houses sell 4'x8' But it is pricey.

Getting back to cut-out for Hatch you can get 1 1/2"x1 1/2" Popolar wood @ Lowes make up new larger Frame first go side to side or wall to wall note use spray glue after dry fit, make sure to have support under & a little  weight on roof to hold to wood to set up.
Send me a PM maybe I can E-mail & get you phone #.
Will be updating on my install new Fridge.
Ken thanks for info on updating photos , will get some posted of my progress on my Clipper- I call him ( Wilson ) from Tom Hanks Castaways

Regards,
Joe & Denise

[caninecaravan]

The replacement one from National is the 13X22 size. My guy at Terry s RV in Stockton replaced main with a larger size. Doesn't have an aluminum frame, but the plastic seems to be working just fine. No blown covers and no leaks. You can give him a call and have him tell you what you can do. Just an idea. CanineCaravan

[Clipper Joe]

Hi Pete,
How Did You Make Out On Your Escape Vent?
Was Greg From Allied Trailer Able To Help You out?
Or Did You Order One Online?

Remember To Put A Small Amount Of White Dicor Self Leveling Sealant Caulking on Base Of Vent & Coat A Small Amount 3/8" Around Outside Frame & Over Screws, Use Stainless Steel Screws 3/4"-1" Long.

Hopes This Helps,
Joe & Denise

[Panel Pete]

Joe,

  Funny you ask, I wound up ordering the larger 15 x 22  escape hatch through Amazon. It arrived on the 10th and was in sad shape - the seller sent it in its factory packaging which was a flimsy box with substandard padding. The box was not only crushed to the point that it had lost its shape but torn and punctured as well, I'm just lucky that I caught the UPS delivery guy at my front door. After inspecting the contents I found that not only was the frame bent all to hell but the lift mechanism gear box was mangled as well. All this and the driver was going to drop it off at my doorstep and leave!

I refused delivery and have filled for return of the item as well as a complaint. I'm now waiting for its replacement to arrive, hopefully this one survives the trip from Kansas City to California a bit better than its predecessor.

Thanks for the tip with the Dicor and the stainless steel screws - I'll be sure to use both

Pete 
 

[Clipper Joe]

Pete,

Doesn't That Make You Upset When You Get A Package You Have Been Waiting On, To Find It is Damaged.
Or You order Something & They Shipped The Dam Wrong Item Or Color..

It Is A lot Better You Went With Larger On, I Know It Would Be A Little Tight Squeeze Getting Out The Hatch Any way.

Did You Order Alum. One Or Plastic One? Was Told The Alum. One Does Not Flex As Much As Plastic One. I Know That With The Heat On Top Off Roof, Plastic Cracks, I Had To Replace A/C Coleman Cover, Got It From Greg @ Allied Trailer, Looks Great & Has Lifetime Warranty...

Will Try & Post A Few Photos Of Upgrades, But Have To Get The Forum To Upload, I Think I Save As Jpg. But May Be A Little Large.

Take Care,
Joe