Author Topic: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist  (Read 1398 times)


Offline Toedtoes

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2016, 12:15:39 PM »
Interesting bunch.  That one for $9500 is WAY overpriced - from the quotes off our website, I guess the seller thinks they can get more for it due to the club.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Offline Clipperlover10-04

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2016, 01:44:36 PM »
I completely agree with you toedtoes! It is in good shape but not worth what they want. Pretty sure that's why its been on Craigslist so long!!!
1979 Dodge 440, 821 SK-FCIT, 50,000 original miles
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Offline Autoarcheologist

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2016, 03:33:26 PM »
We are hoping to get up to Seattle next week to look at the one for $6750 and the others with the bench seat.

If they sell we might look at the ones with captains chairs.

Anybody want to offer an opinion on what this one is worth?

https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/rvs/5730068898.html

It's being sold by the owners son, so he doesn't know too much about it.  Generator doesn't work, but he says everything else does and it has relatively new tires.  I'm thinking $5k or a bit more if everything really does work.

I prefer the dashboards of the later cars, and we would like the dinette / bench option for extra sleeping options.

Ian
Ian Lomax
Portland, Oregon
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1980 Clipper Rear Bath 821F

Offline Toedtoes

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2016, 04:35:40 AM »
Over the past several years, I have found that clipper prices seem to range as follows:

$2,000 and under - bad condition; both house and engine/chassis have extensive issues; will often need towing to move; etc.
$2,001 to $4,000 - fair condition; either house or engine/chassis will have at least one extensive issue; several smaller issues in house and/or engine/chassis.
$4,001 and up - good condition; should be mechanically sound;  May need some minor engine/chassis work;  All appliances should be in working order.

A few items that I find should not factor into the price:

Cab A/C - these older AC systems are very expensive to repair ($2500+) and just aren't worth the expense for most owners to have done.  So, most people find workarounds (using house AC with generator while on the road).  Expecting the seller to cut the price of the RV because the cab AC doesn't work is just considered extreme.

Tire and batteries - these items are considered "standard replacement items".  Every RV owner is going to have to replace these on a regular basis.  Tires will need to be replaced every 5-7 years regardless of wear.  Batteries can vary depending on type, maintenance and usage from between every 3-12 years.  What type a person buys is completely dependent upon their personal needs and even if I bought and put in a brand new AGM 12v battery 2 months ago, the buyer may immediately replace that with 4 wet cell v golf cart batteries.  Therefore tires and batteries should not affect the selling price of the RV.

Options - awnings, televisions, stereos, generators, etc. don't increase the value of  the RV.  Awnings are expensive to replace and it's reasonable to expect a 40 year old awning to be deteriorated, etc.  Onboard generators of that era are fairly loud and for a couple thousand you can buy a couple hondas that are much quieter and more efficient - so again, there isn't any real benefit to them and therefore no good reason to pay more to get them.  TVs and stereos are just to easy and cheap to put in yourself.


Definitions on above conditions:

Extensive issues - these are problems that will take a lot of manpower and/or expensive parts to correct.  For engine/chassis, this is potentially ANY issue.  If the engine runs a bit rough, it might just need a tune up, but it can just as likely need a new engine.  Major rust or damage to the exterior - especially the fiberglass house.  For the house, it will be things like: water damage to structure of house (e.g., dry rot in walls, floor or ceiling); warped or ruined paneling or wallpaper; fridge doesn't work; propane system leaks; etc.  It also includes customization to the clipper that has rendered it into something less than what it was built as.  For example: removing all kitchen appliances; removing sinks; removing shower stall; removing water tanks; removing majority of cupboards/seating/etc.  While an individual owner may decide that removing these things is better, for the majority of RVers, these things are part of what makes an RV and will have to be added back in to make the rig usable - therefore if they have been removed completely, the value of the rig is severely diminished.

Smaller issues:  for the engine/chassis, these are things like replacing rubber (hoses, belts, fuel lines, etc.), spark plugs, and so on.  Basic maintenance stuff that might have been left undone for longer than reasonable but not a big or expensive chore to do.  A couple running lights not working (if none are working, that could very much fall into Extensive issues).  For the house, these are things like leaking faucets (easily replaced with standard faucets usually), re-upholstery work, replacement of stove/oven, replacement of cupboard latches, slightly worn woodwork, and so on.

Minor issues: for chassis, small dings in cab area, small dents in bumper, etc.  For the house, trim that is loose or missing, decor/colors unappealing, etc.

Fridge - OK.  Many people have replaced a 2-way or 3-way fridge (runs on propane and electric or propane, electric and 12v) with a "residential fridge".  The residential fridge will only run on electric.  If you will only use the clipper in RV parks and campgrounds with electrical hookups, then this will likely be OK for you.  However, if you wish to camp in campgrounds with no electrical hookups (dry camp), you will have to: 1. have multiple batteries, and 2. have a generator and/or solar setup to recharge the batteries daily.  For me, a residential fridge is a no deal because I always dry camp and I don't want to deal with multiple batteries, generator, etc.

Microwave - only going to work if you have electrical hookups, you have multiple batteries, you have a generator that you can run while you use the microwave, or you have a generator and/or solar system to recharge the battery(s) daily.

When buying it is really a good idea to have a mechanic look over the engine first -it can be hard to see at a glance if there is something wrong and often owners have done so much re-wiring over the years that you can't tell what goes where...

Also, if a seller won't let you operate any portion of the rig, walk away.  I cannot stress that enough.  Make sure you run water through the faucets.  Light the hot water heater, light the stove and oven and make sure they stay lit.  Connect to shore power and run water pump and fridge on electric and check all lights and outlets.  Turn off everything and then turn on AC (on a 15amp household outlet, you should be able to run the AC with everything else off) and make sure it blows cold air.  Disconnect from shore power and run water pump and check all lights.  Run fridge on propane - make sure it lights and stays lit and make sure it stays cold (often the fridge will cool differently on propane and electric so don't be worried if the temp knobs are on different settings to get to the same temp inside - just make sure both electric and propane will cool the fridge to an appropriate temperature).

If the seller says "I don't have an outlet close enough to plug into", "I'm out of propane", "there's no water in the tank and my hose won't reach", "there isn't a battery right now", and so on, take that as an admission that there is something big that won't work and they are trying to hide it.  To this day, I have not met anyone who bought a rig where the seller did not let them test any particular function and the buyer found that function worked when they got home.  For me, when I bought my travel trailer, it was the water -the seller had put away the hose due to below freezing temps.  Found out he had split the hot water tank and re-wrapped it with new insulation.  Cost me $600 to replace the entire hot water system - the trailer only cost me $1800...  WALK AWAY.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Offline Clipperlover10-04

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2016, 04:55:01 AM »
That clipper for $6750 is nice! Its just south of me as well. If i didn't already have a clipper, thats the one i would buy, i really like the floorplan. I may consider switching my chairs and table out for a couch some day. The driver seats look nice and comfortable with those high backs! Good luck in your search for a clipper, i hope you get the one that works best for you!! Toedtoes is on point with that info. She helped me out in buying my clipper!
1979 Dodge 440, 821 SK-FCIT, 50,000 original miles
ACOC 3765

Offline Toedtoes

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2016, 06:04:23 AM »
Clipperlover 10-04 contact jbtbbrewer.  She is looking for the chairs and cabinet - prior owner removed them and left the space empty.  I would bet you can work out a deal that will benefit both of you (she pays you something for the chairs and cabinet and that offsets the cost of your buying the couch).

Also I'll make sure ClipperJoe sees this thread and provides some input - he had changed out his chairs and cabinet for a couch on his current or prior clipper and should have some helpful advice.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Offline jbtbbrewer

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #7 on: September 02, 2016, 02:12:26 PM »
Thanks ToedToes. Yes Clipperlover10-04, when you get to that point keep me in mind.
Thanks!

Offline Autoarcheologist

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2016, 09:46:20 AM »
Thanks Toedtoes, great insights.

I agree with the "if you can't test it assume it doesn't work" mantra.  When we sold our 66 Streamline I made sure to have everything hooked up and usable.

One question, can we bring a standard propane bottle with us to test the propane if it's empty?  Or do they take a special size that needs to be refilled?

We are going to look at the one for $6750 on Monday.  The tires are at least a few years old, so that's a bargaining point.  Batteries are new which is good.  He's going to plug in the fridge so we can test that and the house A/C.  Water is easy, just grab the hose.

Thanks!

Ian

Ian Lomax
Portland, Oregon
ACOC Member
1980 Clipper Rear Bath 821F

Offline Toedtoes

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2016, 11:44:58 AM »
The propane tank on the clipper is a built in model.  It doesn't take bottles like a trailer.  I would call the owner and let him know you want to test the propane appliances and does he have propane in the tank.  He should be willing to get some propane.  And really, there should be no reason for him not to have any propane in the tank - it's a 40lb tank and that's a lot of propane.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Offline Autoarcheologist

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2016, 08:47:57 AM »
Thanks, saves me from bringing a set along.  If they're empty I'll suggest we drive somewhere and add a little, or knock off the price of the gas appliances.
Ian Lomax
Portland, Oregon
ACOC Member
1980 Clipper Rear Bath 821F

Offline Autoarcheologist

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Re: Clippers on Seattle Craigslist
« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2016, 11:49:03 AM »
Well we made an offer on the one for $6750 and he accepted.  We pick it up on Wednesday. It's a real time capsule, I will post photos in a new thread once we pick it up and get it home.
Ian Lomax
Portland, Oregon
ACOC Member
1980 Clipper Rear Bath 821F