What gauge runs to outlets

[bigray]

HI ALL:

Is it possible to change the 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp? What size wire runs to the outlets?

I have a TV that I operate and would like to operate a microwave simultaneously without tripping the breaker!

[handyman]

If you put the microwave on the refer plug you should be ok with the tv anywhere  

[Tyler Hoodenpyle]

BigRay, I wouldn't change the breaker to a 20 Amp unless you made sure the wire was 12AWG or heavier.      

Tyler
#3441

[bigray]

Tyler,

I agree. That's why I asked what gauge wire runs to the outlets. I don't have a wire diagram and can't discern the size by looking at it.

[handyman]

Ray if they are 15 amp plugs they use 14 gage wire if it's a 20 amp it'll be 12 gage same as you would use in a house another way to tell sometimes is look at the back of the plug it'll tell you if it's 15 or 20 amp  

[bigray]

Thanks Jim. I'll take a look.

[Conrad]

Check the wire insulation for any information.  Wire identification marks have become more of a standard over the past few decades.  Look for something like " 14AWG " for #14 guage wire, " 12 AWG" for #12 guage wire.  Our vintage clips may or may not have wire identified as such.  These days the manufacturing process allows for minute markings to be applied to almost anything.  I was surprised to find a SKU code applied to one side of a galvanized washer at Home Depot.

[AndyIlles]

Big Ray,

I had to do some wiring on mine, and the existing wire was all 12ga, so it should handle 20a just fine.

Andy

[bigray]

Andy,

Where you able to change your 15amp to a 20amp. It's it easy to do.

I'm hoping Home Depot has 20 amp that can easily replace the 15 amp with.

[AndyIlles]

Ray...

In another post, I mentioned that I pigtailed a new outlet off my 15amp Air Conditioning breaker, so I could run my space heater same time as the coffee pot, etc.  So I didn't change breakers, but yeah, I'm sure somebody like Home Depot would have 'em.  Like I said, my wiring (which I'm sure is original) is all 12ga, so that part should be fine.

One thing you might consider though.  When I did mine, all the outlets were "back wired".. meaning wires plug into the back of the outlet.  That kindda connection sucks!!!  Remove, and make "pigtails" to the screw connectors on the side (new outlets too... 69c ea at HD, except for the first GFI one that protects the rest).  Not a big job with only 3 outlets.  I also went to a bigger box at the first one (outside, for the fridge) that everything else connects through, just to have more room for wires.  Also easy.

[bigray]

Thanks Andy.

I'm not that good with electricity. I'm learning more as I go.

[Tyler Hoodenpyle]

Good point Andy, those old type of connections are a real hazard!

Tyler
ACOC 3441

[AndyIlles]

BigRay...

Since you're just learning, an otherwise obvious point...
Be SURE to connect black wires to the "copper" colored screws.... white wires to the silver colored ones... (usually bare) ground to the green ones.

Also, in mine, the wires in the first box, by the fridge, were impossibly short.  Get some "yellow" connectors (Home Depot... plastic jobbies with a wire "worm" in 'em that you screw over a wire connection), and add some short "extension" wires to be able to easily make pigtail connections... assuming you mount a larger box.  There's not enough room to cram the wires and connectors back into the small "OEM" box.  That will also allow room for you to connect wires to any other outlets later, if you choose to.  It's also a good idea to fill the connectors with something like Alnox (paste in a tube)... keeps the connection from ever oxidizing.  Make a good "twist" connection on the wires first... then screw the filled "yellows" on.  Use red ones (larger) for more than 2 wires.  Be sure to put a "GFI" receptacle in there.... protects the circuits down the line.

Andy

[AndyIlles]

BigRay..

Well... another thing.  "Pigtail" means you use needle-nose pliars to bend a "hook" in the end of the (bare) wire (like a question mark shape), to fit under the screws. Strip about 1/2" of insulation... not more.  Also.. be sure the open end of the hook faces clockwise, so the "hook" tightens up when you tighten the screw.   Ummm... can't think of anything more at the moment.

It's a no-brainer, really.. just simple rules to follow.

Andy

[HPotter]

Re the wire connectors, Home Depot has some new ones that are far better than the wire nuts we have been using all these years to make splices in switch and outlet boxes. They are a little plastic block that has several holes in them that you just push the wires into, and they are connected together. They come in several sizes to accept more or less wires. You just strip the wire and push it into the hole and it grabs the wire. They are sort of postage stamp sized and about 1/4 inch thick. They take up a lot less space than wire nuts. You'll find them at Home Depot right by the wire nuts.
About those outlets with push-in connections, I think the ones they make now only accept #14 wire, so if you have a 20 amp circuit you will have to replace them with those with screw terminals.
Harold, #886