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Was given a clipper. Challenges ahead :)

Started by CJWarnke, May 30, 2016, 09:09:44 PM

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CJWarnke

Hiya y'all.  Newb here.
Just got a clipper given to me.  Its a 21ft rear kitchen with the couch.  I think its an 821f.  It has a 440 and sounds great at idle.

So she wasn't reliably started for like 4 years.  I got her home but she was highly challenged making it up my steep driveway.  When I talk to folks they said something about the thermoquad getting gunked up if it sits.  Basically she is dogging pretty bad trying to climb a 15 degree grade (I said steep).

Does anyone know about these carbs?  I can get a rebuilt carter from Summit racing here in Reno for about 300, or are these carbs easy to rebuild?  The only carbs I have ever rebuilt were motorcycle carbs, and this thing looks a good deal more complex.

Other than that, and a bit of a vibration at certain speeds (about 60) she seems pretty good.  The rear window is broken out, but the fridge works.  The roof AC runs for a while on 110 but then pops a breaker so I assume it prefers 220 or needs work.  Electrical needs work as there is funkiness in the dash.  Basically, she was free because they didn't want to mess with her anymore and I decided to take it on.

So anyone know about the carb and AC?  Also, it has two tanks but I am not sure if the side fill or the rear is the main.  And if anyone knows where to find a care and maintenance reference that would be a huge help as I know nothing about RVs  :)

Thanks for any assistance or known reference to other thread or ANYTHING  :)

Toedtoes

Hello and congratulations!

Clipper Joe will be along to offer advice on the thermoquad - he has the same engine & carb (before he switched it out).

AC - don't try plugging into a 220 outlet. The clipper plug is actually a 30amp 110v plug. The reason your AC is popping the breaker is because your house outlet is wired for 15/20amp - the AC and anything else pulling from the breaker is using more than 20amps (even just slightly) and tripping it.

Couple options: plug the clipper into an outlet that is the only draw on a single breaker and don't turn on anything but the AC - by itself, the AC should be OK. But if you have a light turned on, or anything else pulling from that breaker, it will trip.

You could also install a dedicated 30amp outlet on its own circuit breaker. This will allow you to use the AC and other items in your clipper at one time.

Now, if you're going to keep plugged into the 15/20amp outlet, get yourself a good 30amp extension cord and then use a 30-to-15 amp dogbone to plug in. Don't use the puck style adapters - they are much more likely to melt from over use. The 30amp extension cord will handle the max power being pulled to the clipper. Using a standard yellow 15amp cord will create excess heat.

Dash electrical - have fun. :). The wiring is old and you will likely have to do a lot of individual wiring replacements as they don't sell the wiring kits anymore.

Gas tanks - you're going to have to trial and error it. Clippers came standard with one tank. Many people added an aftermarket second tank. Each one has been installed differently. My tanks are completely separate and a switch on the dash changes from one tank to the other. I have two fills - they are side by side. Another clipper will have one fill and the 2nd tank fills from the overflow - as the 1st tank is emptied, the fuel from the 2nd refills the 1st...

One thing I do suggest is to label the fills and, if you have a switch and bypass, label each of those. I had mine all figured out, then had my engine rebuilt. When they put it back together, they switched the hoses at the bypass connection - so my switch worked opposite. Once I realized that, I had some additional work done and they flipped it back the other way. I got so discombobulated!

There are lots of books out there, but your best bet is to just read everything you can online and ask questions. Things like the house electrical (battery vs. shore power) will be confusing - and then one day, you'll have the aha moment. Nothing in particular will cause it to make sense, you'll just suddenly get it.

Find a friendly RV owner (they're all over) to show you how to dump - much easier than following a book. With the fridge, you want to be level when parked. Best way is to use a level inside the fridge to check. Once you have it level, get a bubble level and stick it to a place you can easily see it from the driver seat - make sure it reads level (use a wedge to get it level at that location). From now on, you will be able to for level without leaving your seat - making it much easier to quickly level. The front to back is more important than side to side, and if you are within one bubble from the center you're close enough.

As you go, you'll start to notice that some people make things very difficult and others just fly by the seat of their pants - usually something in between works best.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

CJWarnke

Thanks ToedToes!  Lots of good info!

The breaker inside the RV was popping, but now I assume that's because of a voltage drop over the extension cord I used ohm's lawing me.  I will need to connect to a better circuit.

Regarding the dash issues, I will have to pull it I think and chack all the traces and connections.  Hopefully I can figure that out!  I am better equipped for that than the thermoquad  :)

I think I found the diverter valve for the tanks.  One fills from the rear (I assume the secondary) and one from the side.  There is a separate electric fuel pump for the secondary tank with a switch mounted next to the diverter switch, so I need to play a little there...  woohoo  :)

Living here in reno there are lots of folks I know who do the RV or 5th wheel thing, so I will ask around regarding the dumping.

But I do have a question.  Is being very level important to these ammonia based fridges?  Or is it so things don't slide around?  Good idea on attaching a level permanently  :)

Once again, thanks for the info.  It looks like a longer term project but something the fam is excited about.  Now to just git er done  :)

Toedtoes

Being level is important to the fridge system, not the items.  Within one bubble is good - it doesn't have to be perfect - but don't want to be off more than that.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Clipper Joe

Hi CJ,
Welcome To Clipper Web Site.
Sounds Like You Got A Clipper That May Take Alittle Work, It's Nice That It Was Free. That Is Nice. ;D

Do You Have To Smog It In Your State?
If It Has Sat That Long, Make Sure,
All Rubber Fuel Lines Are Checked Or Replaced or Smoke Test.
Make Sure To Get Old Gas/ Fuel Out Of Tank or Tanks, Replace Fuel Filter On Frame Rail to Fuel Pump.
Also, Check Brakes Front & Rear, Wheel Cyl & Calibers..

On Thermo Quad They Are Real Good If Set- Up Properly, They Are Made For Those 440 Mopars ;)
I Have A Few Spare 1978, 1979. My Clipper Has A Tq9096s For Calif Smog.

You Have To Make Sure Mech. Choke Is Set Right & There Is A Setting On Linkage Rod To Carb & A Small Screw On Top Of Carb For More Fuel On Extra Loading From Engine.
It's Best To Use A Good Carb Shop That Knows Thermoquad Carbs.
I Have A Shop That This Old Guy Knows These Old Carbs, Name Is Greg. He Has A Shop In Northern California.

Joe


1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher