News:

This website's purpose is to share information with clipper owners and others who are interested in clippers or have old Dodge B300 chassis motorhomes.  In an attempt to share as much information as possible to as many people as possible PLEASE first post your questions in one of the forum boards rather than sending a PM to the webmaster or another member. This will allow other members to find information that may help solve their problem.  By PMing your questions, you decrease forum activity and create more work for active members who end up repeating information to individuals looking for the same information.  Thank you.

Main Menu

operating manual?

Started by ermajay, September 27, 2013, 03:04:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ermajay

I just bought a 1977 dodge clipper motorhome without a manual.
I would like to know more about how to operate everything. for example: how do i use it as a self contained vehicle? does it have a water available without having to hook up to an outside water source? am i able to flush the toilet, run the sink, shower? i did notice a water tank under the bench seat nearest the driver seat. is that for supply? or is it a holding tank for waste water? and i was told there is a pump somewhere? i don't wan't to sound stupid. just that the people i bought it from couldn't tell me much. they had it hooked up to outside water/ electric. also it is getting close to winter, and it will park outside for now. what is the best way to winterize it? i don't want any pipes breaking during the freeze. one more...how to use power off the battery instead of a power cord? how do i set the switch in the outside compartment to do so?

Toedtoes

As far as I've found, there is no "operating manual" for the entire rig.  There were individual manuals for the various appliances/systems (e.g., furnace, fridge, hot water heater, air conditioning, etc.).

Some basics for you on dry camping (that's the common term for camping without hookups):

On the left side of your RV, there is the inlet for water hookup.  Near that is a larger white/cream square - that should be your access point to fill your white (fresh) water tank - you pull out the round center to open it.  You will want a tank filler like this:  http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-tank-filler-with-shut-off-valve/4674.

You'll inset the tube of the filler into the hole to fill.  Don't turn the hose on full blast, it's a somewhat slow fill tube.

I would recommend doing a disinfecting of the tank before drinking from your system (I'll put a separate post in Tips & Tricks for an easy way to do this). 

If you have the rear kitchen, the hot water heater and tank should be near the back door.  I believe the water pump is in the same general area.

The tank under the sink is your fresh water tank.  You should have a grey water tank (that's for shower and sink drained water) and a black water tank (that's for the toilet flushed water) under the vehicle in the back.

If no one has updated your RV, your stove should be a propane gas stove.  Your propane tank is under the RV directly behind the driver's door.  Your fridge (if original) should run on both plug-in (110) and propane.  There will be a knob inside the fridge at the bottom right that you turn to switch from one to the other.  It may also have a 12volt option (I don't recommend using it as you'll drain your battery quickly).  You have to switch the knob to the appropriate power source.

If they were able to use the toilet on 110, then you should have no problem when dry camping.** 

Before you go anywhere, I would test everything over a weekend in your driveway first.  Get your bugs worked out first before planning a trip.

As for running off the battery, you shouldn't have to do anything.  There shouldn't be any main switch.  When you plug into 110, it should automatically power everything via 110.  When you unplug, it should automatically power everything via the battery.  That is the way it should be...

However, if your battery is bad, your converter is malfunctioning, etc., then this may not work properly.  If your overhead lights don't work when the RV is unplugged, then something is not connected or working right. 

OK.  I think that's enough to get you started.  I'll let you take all that in, and then someone can address additional issues, including the weatherizing.  I'll post in Tips & Tricks a thread on Disinfecting the Water System next.
'75 American Clipper Dodge 360 821F; ACOC #3754

Clipper Joe

Hi Toedtoes & Ermajay

That was a Really great Summary on how to get Your Clipper on the Road.
The Water Pump For our 1977 In on Left Side In Lower Cabinet Where 110 Vac Cable Is Stored.
The Water Heater is Right Rear Behind Side Entry Door.

I have Found to Keep Our Fresh water Clean, I have read Many Difference, tricks " per say"
Some say use Clorox Bleach Very Small Amount, then Rinse  Well.

I Have Read By Adding Chemicals it Harms White Plastic Water Tank .

What I do is Use a White Marine Water Hose, I Have a Large Water Filter Attached To Hose, I Have That plastic Water shut off on end of Filter, I Add Each Time 1 Table Spoon Of Baking Soda, I Have Always drain Water Tank After Each Usage.

It is always Fresh Tasting- Like Bottle Water.

About Winterizing RV, We Live In Bay Area, Ca not To Cold .

Under My Clipper @ Rear of Coach There are Drain Valves Wrapped in Foam, Also A Plastic Drain Valve for Fresh Water Tank.

I have Never had to Winterize Clipper.
Maybe Some Clipper Owners From The Colder Weather Areas
Can Give Some in-Put on How They Do It & What Type Of Anti-freeze they Use.

Joe
1977 Dodge 440  Rear Kitchen
Note: Clipper Sold: (Miss It)
ACOC#3749
Now Own 2002 Class A Diesel Pusher