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NO " Spark"

Started by John Eversoll, April 21, 2010, 11:38:46 AM

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John Eversoll



   Ok, I am not that great with electrical stuff but I can do it if I put my mind to it...


    77 Dodge 440 --  New"  coil,Ballast resister, Distributor, Modual, ignition switch

    Ok?  here goes---

    No spark from the coil!!!!  I am currently tracking down a possible broken wire.

    Anyone out there in Clipper Land have a clue as to where I should look??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????


John

Horst

John
did a google and found this
================
We need 12.6 volts at the positive side of the coil with the engine cranking, and pulsing voltage when cranking on the negative side. If no 12.6 at the + side, possible ignition switch problem. If no pulsing on the - side, possible bad P/U coil in the distributor or ignition module.
================

I'll do some more googling later
H.
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

Horst

here's another interesting thread
===================
The first easy test is just run a 12 volt jumper to the + side of the coil..try and start it..If it cranks and fires..your ballast or secondary ignition is at fault..track that line..(Could also be the coil)..

If it won't , remove ALL the wires from the coil..and get your DVOM out, set it for OHMS scale, R X 1, calibrated 000, Measure the primary , It should read less than an ohm, but more than 000, out of that range, get another coil.

Next measure the Secondary, set the scale for R X 10K or higher..It should read between 10,000 and 11,000..outside of that range, toss the coil..

If that is good, pull the module, and have it tested at auto zombie, (Free Test) Have it tested several times to "Heat It Up" , If a new one is needed, have it tested as well BEFORE you leave the store..they have a high "Out of Box Failure Rate" ..and once you leave the store...It's YOUR problem!

In either case..(replace or Renew module) Clean the old Heat-sink Compound from the parts and apply new , generously (but not sloppy) , Else you WILL be doing this again very soon..

If that is not the problem, It may be the magnetic pickup has gone bad..look up the resistance specs for your motor home, and ohm it out..If out of spec, replace as needed..

Somewhere , I remember the ballast resistor on a Dodge is a duel element (for two circuits..) check that out and replace if needed..(I'm Not a Dodge guy at all..but I remember that has a duel function for some reason)

Check the starter relay, It may be bad , not providing ignition during Crank cycles (secondary Ignition)
=======================

His comments on starter relay/solenoid osunds promising
Horst
ACOC  #2961
'75 Clipper 821F, Dodge 360........sold it in 2015.......now running a Ford F-250 towing a 2008 Layton trailer.

John Eversoll



Hi there Bro, I did manage to find a burned wire

in the loooooom... Plus, the ballast is not tight... going to have to relocate the ballast

the hole as gotton a little bigger than the screw that holds it in place..

I will also check everything that you suggested!!!!

Thanks!!!!!    John

Hank Jourdin

Hey John, You need to up date your ign. system Call Bob Mazzolini Racing and get a later model Control Module P/N 1-P412050, along with a new harness and single ballast resistor. This is all the latest mopar parts no mickey mouse stuff. Wire it as follows .On the ign,switch there is ing.#1 And Ig. #2 From the Ign switch to the ballest resistor to the Positive side of the coil run the brown wire from ign #2 this is the start side. Ign. #1 is the run side it is a blue or red wire from ign switch to ballast resistor to control module. The Neg. side of the coil is the black wire to the control module. The green wire in the new harness is not used. On the new harness the other 2 wires go to the distributor. When you remove the ign. switch hook the 2 ign. lead 1 and 2 toghter thats why you only need a single ballst resistor. When set the gap on reluctor and pickup it sets at .006. Bob has all the parts in stock and can ship to you, they are no expensuve, and they are Mopar Parts. His phone # 951 787-8783 3199 Columbia Ave. Riverside, Calif. 92501 Bob is a real nice guy and if you need a diagram he can probbly send you one if you need it. Good Luck hope it has helped    Hank Out!

John Eversoll

Hey Bro, do you have an idea about How much

for the whole set up???

John

Hank Jourdin

Hey John,  About 60 shuckles, will solve all your oroblems! Hank Out!

John Eversoll



Shazzammm!!!!!!!!!!

       I found the problem...........

Man I had to check the wires and found one that had power coming from the fire wall
But had no power to the coil....??????????????

I ended up removing two feet of wire wrap.. I have never seen this before, but"

I found a wire that had "Burned thru"..  I had the same type of wire and used my quick
connects and Viola""""

I GOT SPARK....  now to adjust the New distributor--Which I didn't need but now have...

and put fresh gas in the Belly of the Beast"   More tomorrow...

Thanks to all you guys that gave me the direction in which I repaired the rig..

John :) :) :) :)

prophetdaniel2

Nice John! Great to hear. My rig is still down, but I talked to a buddy of mine in Juneau who said he as an old dodge van for parts with a 440 that he will pull the radiator and send my way, after he tests it for me. There is still snow on the ground at home (im at work still) so will probably start to reassemble the front end shortly. I am not planning to go back to stock configuration.....I got some mods in mind that should be interesting 8)

John Eversoll

Oh YES, Please let uis all Know of the

works in Process!!!!!   Havent heard much from you in a while...

So I guess you are keeping very busey!

Since I was forced to medically retire I am keeping

myself busey.  I wanted to hhook up with Chuck Carrol in Oregon but the Dr appt I had was manditory.

Next time!!

Well, take care and remember those Safety Glasses!!!

John

John Eversoll


Real Bitchen news"""

   New motor, sucked a valve"""

#@!&)N?P()++I^&^FNE{ZP+C<OIY*EW*^E+?::"!``~~

and then the *&^#$@!~+_(*=_)((0^645$$#@4556L'://><</./,,.?::PIPUI:TdTE$$@Rtk,

Now I sit here thinking of what to do..   Later   John


Hank Jourdin

Hey John, What the heck, when your guy milled the heads to give you all that compression, I belive you said 11 to 1, maybe not enough valve clearence. Might have done more than eat a valve, like crack a piston or two. sorry to here that, I can see dollar bills and a bottle of Scotch, er I mean O'duels  Hank Out!

John Eversoll

Hi Hank...  Ya know I have a Bottle of scotch tucked away that I have had for
about tenty five years.. Never opened it.  Glenn Levit"

I am sure it is real smooth now.. 

I almost opened it last night!!!!!!!!!!!

I called the guy that rebuilt it and he is going to make good on it!!

12 months  or 12,000 miles....  He knows it is his fault.

and is willing to make good on it.  but the big head ach is to pull the motor again.

I just might find someone to do it for me this time...

How have you been....   Better than me I hope!!!!  as n ex radio operator my self

I read 5x5 and am out

prophetdaniel2

O   M   G   You have to pull that thing again! :o

John Eversoll

Yes, I have to pull the f-m- again...

I am about ready to take a ful metal jacket and put it out of

my pain!!

I found a guy that will pull it and reinstall it for a grand..............

500 out and 500 in...  I just don't want to mess with it any more..

What the heck it is only money and a can't take it with ya..

Plus I'll make it back when I sell it.  Thankis for the thought!!!!

John