The right rear and to some point left rear sags too. Right about where the van chassis stops and the C channel beams continue to the rear bumper. I'm thinking a weld has broken or the frame has somewhat failed. When my rv is loaded the bathroom door and entrench door which is in the rear are hard to open an close because of this issue. Has anyone else here del with this problem?
There have been some owners in the past who have done some support/structure work on the back end. Most have done it in regards to the hitches (many were just stuck on the back without properly building up the structure to support the weight on the hitch.
Mine has a definite drop at the back, but it hasn't affected the doors. I notice mostly when I'm cooking - if the rig is leveled for the fridge, then the stove top has a slant so eggs slide to the back of the pan. At some point, I'll see about getting it worked on, but it doesn't appear to be failing so I'm not too worried.
mine does it as well. it uncommon to find a clipper without a saggy rear. I am doing a design for a proper frame extention that will eliminate this problem. I will be posting the plans soon. it will require the rv to go into a professional shop for the install though...
Hello All You Clippers With Sagging Rear Ends :) :)
There Is A Detailed Drawing That Was Made Up & Used By A Past Clipper Supply & Vice Pres. In ACOC.
He Has Since Pasted Away & Lived In Oregon, He Was Very Sharp With All The Needs Inside & Out On These American Clippers.
Its Fine That Owners Have Came Up With Ideas On This Problem :o, But Why Invent The Wheel Again. Mel Our Present Supply Officer Has One Of These Support Upgrades On His Clipper, Since He Tow's Clipper Jr. Parts Trailer. :)
If You Are A National Club Member, You Just Have To Use The Search Tab Upper Right On Main Page, You Can Fine The Drawing That Bob Made Back In Jan 2002.
If Anyone Comes Up, With Something, Please Post Info For Other Clipper Owners Who May Have Same Problem>> Thanks.
Remember, Before Doing Any Welding On Frame, You Have Gas Tank Or Tanks Under Them & You Also Have Holding Tanks You May Have To Remove Sometimes In Future Due To Cracking Or Splitting, Also Make Sure Clipper Is Level & Plumed Before Adding A Bunch Of Steel Under It ... :-[
So Remember You Need To Join ACOC To View Most Or All Tech Stuff. $30.00 Is Worth It For All The Data On This Web Site.......
Good Luck,
Joe
I've seen those plans you are referring to. lots of gussets and not properly triangulated for much vertical sheer strength. Its fine if you are just wanting to flat tow a small car or truck.
What I am designing is a true frame extension that sleaves into the factory frame past the front leaf spring shackle mount. then the shackle will bolt through the extension as well as a few holes frilled into the frame to plug weld the extension into place. it will allow for a reasonable amount of tongue weight on the ball and fix the saggy rears these units all have by properly supporting the rear of the coach.
the reason I highly recommend taking the rig into a proper welding shop has to do with the fact that we are talking about modifying the frame and suspension. If these are not done properly it can and will lead to injury and or death
The Saggy Bottoms, sounds like a bad band name lol. I think I lucked out on my Clipper, it has no sag and has a hitch attached basically the way that is being thought of, basically it is just a beefing up of that original design with stronger materials and more and larger mounting areas while sliding into the frame rails and welded, it isn't a bad idea to bad to box the new frame to the original frame all the way to the hitch, it has to fit around tanks etc on the way back to the hitch but anyone mechanically inclined and who can weld proficiently can build this themselves,
I built mine to almost done but had to have a few tubes bent and had mine final welded in by a buddy with a fab shop but that is only because I have a small little welder that is good for spot welds and no bender but it gave him what he needed to make a safe hitch. It has worked excellent so far, I pulled a buddies jeep 45 miles with it no problems at all, I have inspected all of it since and found no issues. He has said he would put it up against any ready made hitch on the market.
I am thinking of having him make me a steel front and rear bumpers with a removable winch mount for it to not get stuck with the areas I will be taking it and may do another way of mounting the hitch actually into the bumper. (see my 4x4 conversion idea thread lol) Ken
Any photos of these supports that you guys have fabricated? I was really excited about my clipper at first even with work needed but this issue has me standoffish on continuing . I want to a Fram and axle shop but they said they don't work on uni body...
Try a locally owned shop that installs hitches. They will most likely be able to do what it needs as they have to do at least a partial job for many hitch installs.
Find local off road fabrication shops that usually cater to 4x4 enthusiasts in the phone book or Google, most make bumpers and custom hitches also and are used to dealing with unusual installs. What city are you located in? I am a member of Pirate4x4.com and it is a great resource for this kind of stuff but I don't suggest people go over there and post lol, they are a group of assholes to new people but they are the best group of assholes I have seen if someone needs help. I didn't post over there for over 2 yrs before I made my first post lol Once I know where you are I can see how many are around you and find the best one to do the hitch. I will try to get pics of mine. basically you are making a sleeve of new frame around old frame.
I live in the SF east bay area. Thanks for the help!
Hi RH76,
Don"t Give Up On Your Clipper.
There Are Some Easy Fixes For These Problems. Do You Have Air Bags On Rear Axles?
I Also Live In East Bay Area. I Had My Rear Springs Re-Arched, Had This Done By A-1 Springs In Oakland. They Did A Great Job, & Now Only Have To Add 10-20 Psi In Rear Air Bags. Made A Real Difference In Drive Able & Leveling Out Of Clipper. I Also Switched To Michelin
Ms2 16" Tires All Around E Rated. Have The 16.5 Generals, I Took Off. If You Know Anyone Needed Some Spares.
The Other Day I Went To A RV Repair Shop & This Guy Was Getting His Clipper Servicing On Fridge.
I Looked Under It & He Supported His Rear Area. Very Clean & Easy Fix. He Used A Few Plate Steel On Each Side & Used 2ea. Channel Iron Cross Supports, & Installed 2" Receiver For Hitch.
I Will Try & Make Up Drawing & Scan For Input.
Joe
There Are Many Welding Shops Here In Bay Area, 1st. Choice Cordeiro Welding In Hayward.
Gives Free Quote & Has Done Many Of These.
Joe
Had To Add PDF For Main Drawing To Get Small Enough To Upload.
I Have Seen This One On A 1978 Clipper, He Pulls A Horse Trailer With 2 Horses With No Problems.
And Very Clean Install.
Thanks
Thank you for the info! I'll call that shop this week and see if they can look at it.
I do have air bags and the previous owner had the leaf springs rebuilt in recent history.
I converted to 16" wheels too for one of my first upgrades to get the easier to find and safer 225/75/16 E rated tires. I couldn't afford the Michelins thus time around nut did get new rubber on the road.
Just ed looked up Cordero welding and they are very close to me! Thanks!
That's Great You Connected With Welder.
Just Remember When Adding Supports, That You Have A Big Fuel Tank & You Have Your Holding Tanks Under RV That May Need Servicing In Future. It's Easy To Weld Braces & Frame Work, But Note May Someday Will Have To Remove These Items If They Crack Due To Age.
That Is Why I Like The 1"x8"x 60" Flat Plates On Each Sides.
If You Are A Member You Can See My Drawing To Get An Idea Of This.
Every Clipper Owner Has His Idea, So What You Come Up With Your Welder/Fab Guy Please Share Your Job With The ACOC.
Good Luck,
Joe